Fuel or Electric problems?
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Joined: Oct 2003
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Fuel or Electric problems?
I have an 88 bll that was running a little rough so I tuned it up. Oil change, plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Since doing so I can't get any power out of it. It will start but when taking off I have to rev it up to about 3-4000 rpms. once moving I need to down shift to climb the smallest of hills and its sputtering the whole time. I had troouble with the fuel pressure reg. before and replaced it, now it acts like having the same problem. Could this be it? Any help would be appreciated.
Junior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 99
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From: Bay Area, West Coast
I'd be curious if you were supplied with the correct distributor ROTOR. I recall when I went to the local parts retailer, he almost went to get one rotor, then noticed something on his computer screen, making him change his first thought. I don't know what was going on in his mind; it may or may not have been anything relavent to this topic.
If the rotor put in matches the one removed in all critical aspects, double check that it's properly positioned on the rotor shaft. If it's incorrectly seated, and the cap is forced back on, the rotor's locating key might be damaged and attempts to correctly reposition it afterward would be frustrated.
If the rotor and cap are A-OK, (and the problem still exists), make sure the spark wires' ends are fully seated on their cap and plug "posts". Of course their correct (firing order) locations are important, too. Facing the front of the engine, the "Firing Order" alternates left to right from front passenger side to rear driver side.
Specifically: 1-4-2-5-3-6 with the cylinders numbered as follows:
(Distributer)
|(3)[oo](6)|
|(2)[oo](5)|
|(1)[oo](4)|
[=--Fan--=]
The spark-wire between the coil and rotor (center) post also needs to be fully conneced and free of insulation and continuity defects.
If the rotor put in matches the one removed in all critical aspects, double check that it's properly positioned on the rotor shaft. If it's incorrectly seated, and the cap is forced back on, the rotor's locating key might be damaged and attempts to correctly reposition it afterward would be frustrated.
If the rotor and cap are A-OK, (and the problem still exists), make sure the spark wires' ends are fully seated on their cap and plug "posts". Of course their correct (firing order) locations are important, too. Facing the front of the engine, the "Firing Order" alternates left to right from front passenger side to rear driver side.
Specifically: 1-4-2-5-3-6 with the cylinders numbered as follows:
(Distributer)
|(3)[oo](6)|
|(2)[oo](5)|
|(1)[oo](4)|
[=--Fan--=]
The spark-wire between the coil and rotor (center) post also needs to be fully conneced and free of insulation and continuity defects.
Last edited by Hooked-on-4WD; Oct 19, 2003 at 09:18 PM.
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reply to hooked on 4wd
Thanks for the input, I don't get much time to work on this problem but I have taken a timing light t each of the spark plug wires and they are firing. The timing order is correct, this morning I'm thinking of putting the old plugs back in to see if the new ones were just weak. This Bronco has only had about 500 miles since the last tune up so they should be good. 500 miles tells you how much time I get to play with it. Thanks again for your help.
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ZealYouthGuy
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Apr 1, 2008 03:56 PM
