No start need help
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No start need help
Recently I resealed motor, pulled cab apart to do some extensive body work, And reloomed chassis and engine compartment harnesses. Truck has new battery and alternator. When I turn the key the dash lights up but nothing when I go to start it. Checked the fusible links on the ps fender all good. At the ignition switch I have power to the red and blue wire when I try to start but nothing at the fender mounted relay. If I jump that solenoid the truck turns over but no spark. Need some serious help been on it for twelve hours!!! All lights work as well. Grounds have been quadruple checked
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From: Virginia
You didn't give any specs on your truck, but the red/blue wire goes through a neutral safety switch if it's a automatic before it gets to the fender mounted relay. If you have a later truck, it will also go through a clutch switch before it gets to the fender mounted relay if it's a manual transmission truck.
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Recently I resealed motor, pulled cab apart to do some extensive body work, And reloomed chassis and engine compartment harnesses. Truck has new battery and alternator. When I turn the key the dash lights up but nothing when I go to start it. Checked the fusible links on the ps fender all good. At the ignition switch I have power to the red and blue wire when I try to start but nothing at the fender mounted relay. If I jump that solenoid the truck turns over but no spark. Need some serious help been on it for twelve hours!!! All lights work as well. Grounds have been quadruple checked
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thanks. Now is it just a the solenoid casing that is grounding out to the fender? I cleaned it and made sure it was tight.
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From: Angier, NC
Ground on my 81 300 six is from battery down to the frame to a bolt thru a tab on the cable that then goes to the upper starter bolt.
This grounds the frame & motor.
Then there is a ground wire, I used 10 ga. from the left side of the motor to the firewall this is the body ground.
Inside the cab in the firewall behind the radio there should be a group of ground wires screwed to the firewall for things inside the truck.
My truck also has grounds at each front fender to ground the head / park / turn lights for that side.
Now back to this blue / red wire to the solenoid, using a test light or volt meter hook it to that wire and ground. Turn the key to start and the light should light or move the meter if you get any power thru that wire.
If not you will need to back trace why it is not getting power.
Dave ----
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Yes if the body is grounded.
Ground on my 81 300 six is from battery down to the frame to a bolt thru a tab on the cable that then goes to the upper starter bolt.
This grounds the frame & motor.
Then there is a ground wire, I used 10 ga. from the left side of the motor to the firewall this is the body ground.
Inside the cab in the firewall behind the radio there should be a group of ground wires screwed to the firewall for things inside the truck.
My truck also has grounds at each front fender to ground the head / park / turn lights for that side.
Now back to this blue / red wire to the solenoid, using a test light or volt meter hook it to that wire and ground. Turn the key to start and the light should light or move the meter if you get any power thru that wire.
If not you will need to back trace why it is not getting power.
Dave ----
Ground on my 81 300 six is from battery down to the frame to a bolt thru a tab on the cable that then goes to the upper starter bolt.
This grounds the frame & motor.
Then there is a ground wire, I used 10 ga. from the left side of the motor to the firewall this is the body ground.
Inside the cab in the firewall behind the radio there should be a group of ground wires screwed to the firewall for things inside the truck.
My truck also has grounds at each front fender to ground the head / park / turn lights for that side.
Now back to this blue / red wire to the solenoid, using a test light or volt meter hook it to that wire and ground. Turn the key to start and the light should light or move the meter if you get any power thru that wire.
If not you will need to back trace why it is not getting power.
Dave ----
i see the red/blue wire also at the clutch switch and I have same voltage there. The diagrams from Haynes are pretty screwy but I find the red blue wire at the d/s fender connector and to the ignition module. Zero power when i try to start it at these connectors. Now on the ignition switch there is a ground tab that I thought was for the city horn. Could that be the issue. I don’t have anything from the harness that would hook to it.
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From: Angier, NC
yep I back probed the wire and when I tried to start I got 12.3 at the ignition switch on top of steering shaft.
i see the red/blue wire also at the clutch switch and I have same voltage there. The diagrams from Haynes are pretty screwy but I find the red blue wire at the d/s fender connector and to the ignition module. Zero power when i try to start it at these connectors. Now on the ignition switch there is a ground tab that I thought was for the city horn. Could that be the issue. I don’t have anything from the harness that would hook to it.
i see the red/blue wire also at the clutch switch and I have same voltage there. The diagrams from Haynes are pretty screwy but I find the red blue wire at the d/s fender connector and to the ignition module. Zero power when i try to start it at these connectors. Now on the ignition switch there is a ground tab that I thought was for the city horn. Could that be the issue. I don’t have anything from the harness that would hook to it.
If not then the switch either needs to be adjusted or replaced. For testing unplug it and make a jumper wire to join the 2 wires together and see if you now get power at the solenoid now.
Dave ----
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So you have power when turning the key to start going INTO the clutch switch do you have power COMING OUT when you press the clutch all the way down?
If not then the switch either needs to be adjusted or replaced. For testing unplug it and make a jumper wire to join the 2 wires together and see if you now get power at the solenoid now.
Dave ----
If not then the switch either needs to be adjusted or replaced. For testing unplug it and make a jumper wire to join the 2 wires together and see if you now get power at the solenoid now.
Dave ----
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From: Angier, NC
I'd in but not out use a jumper wire bypassing the switch.
The one on top is the backup light swutch.
it should have power on 1 wire and if you jump across the wires the lights if good should come on.
Dave ----
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So no readings going in or out of clutch pedal switch or just in but not out with pedal pushed down?
I'd in but not out use a jumper wire bypassing the switch.
The one on top is the backup light swutch.
it should have power on 1 wire and if you jump across the wires the lights if good should come on.
Dave ----
I'd in but not out use a jumper wire bypassing the switch.
The one on top is the backup light swutch.
it should have power on 1 wire and if you jump across the wires the lights if good should come on.
Dave ----
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yep that was the first thing I thought of cause I didn’t remember reattaching it, but I did. Now is there two or is just the one on the driver side by the oil pressure? Thanks
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(Blue wire)
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I’ll give it a shot this thing has really got me stumped