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Brake fluid flush.

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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 11:27 AM
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Brake fluid flush.

At what point do you 2013 F-250 owners do a brake fluid flush?
I’ve got 80,000 miles on mine.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 11:37 AM
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What does it say in your owner's manual?
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 11:50 AM
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Nothing.
That’s why I asked.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by T diesel
At what point do you 2013 F-250 owners do a brake fluid flush?
I’ve got 80,000 miles on mine.
I flush the system when I do my brakes. Seems like a good time to do it. Just me, I use PENTOSIN DOT 4 LV and i bleed the ABS system as well. Brakes are rock hard and work well. You will need a good scan tool to bleed the ABS system.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 12:00 PM
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I know on a Subaru it's every 35,000 miles and they spec DOT 4.. Subaru isn't Ford BUT, the fluid is still hydroscopic
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 05:27 PM
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I hae never flushed the brake system on any vehicle I have owned. If there was a requirement, it would be in the maintenance section of the owner's manual.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
I hae never flushed the brake system on any vehicle I have owned. If there was a requirement, it would be in the maintenance section of the owner's manual.
Ditto that. But what I have been doing the past few years is cracking the bleeder when I push the piston(s) in so the brake fluid that has been in the caliper is not forced back into or backwards through the system. It is only cracked enough that fluid comes out when pressure is applied and no air can get in. May be overkill, but then again, I also take the mounting plates off and throughly clean them of rust and debris.

I wonder what you will all say on this decision. For the past 10+ years I have been putting the pads in dry (internal guide pins with rubber boots get grease). My reasoning stems from woodworking, Brakes are dusty. Grease is sticky. Why would you put something sticky in an area that is prone to creating dust? 200K miles combined on 3 vehicles, and no problems yet.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 07:04 PM
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I do mine about every 50k. You’ll be surprised all the dark fluid you bleed, especially the first time you bleed them.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 07:23 PM
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Brake fluid should be flushed EVERY two years with the type specified in your manual. DO NOT put DOT4 in a vehicle equipped with DOT3. Brake fluid is under EXTREME pressure and temperatures and it can boil/burn at the calipers even under normal operation. PLUS it attracts moisture
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
Brake fluid should be flushed EVERY two years with the type specified in your manual. DO NOT put DOT4 in a vehicle equipped with DOT3. Brake fluid is under EXTREME pressure and temperatures and it can boil/burn at the calipers even under normal operation. PLUS it attracts moisture
And were does it say in the mechanics bible to flush the brake fluid every two years or any interval? I suspect over 75% or more of the vehicles on the road in the USA have NEVER had the brake system flushed.

Brake fluid is designed to be at high temps and high pressure. This is normal situation else the brake system would have been designed differently as the new innovations have appeared in the automotive world. Now days, most people or shops rarely remove the master cylinder cap to check the fluid level since most all have "plastic" fluid reservoirs that you can visually see the fluid level. And even if you do remove it, the amount of moisture absorbed would be minuscule.

SO, you can flush yours and do what ever you want, I personally think it is not a maintenance item since your owner's manual does NOT specific a fluid flush as it does for oil or your ATF.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2020 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AdWSystems
Ditto that. But what I have been doing the past few years is cracking the bleeder when I push the piston(s) in so the brake fluid that has been in the caliper is not forced back into or backwards through the system. It is only cracked enough that fluid comes out when pressure is applied and no air can get in. May be overkill, but then again, I also take the mounting plates off and throughly clean them of rust and debris.

I wonder what you will all say on this decision. For the past 10+ years I have been putting the pads in dry (internal guide pins with rubber boots get grease). My reasoning stems from woodworking, Brakes are dusty. Grease is sticky. Why would you put something sticky in an area that is prone to creating dust? 200K miles combined on 3 vehicles, and no problems yet.
I see nothing wrong with dry pads but checking or greasing the pins as needed. I have never used anything between the caliper and pad in the last 40 plus years.

Similar to you, I have cracked open the bleeder screw to push the piston back but usually only do this if the master cylinder reservoir doesn't appear to have room to accept the fluid pushed back from the caliper.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2020 | 08:02 AM
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I also replace all the brake fluid every couple of years, although I have done some cars more frequently.

If you have even removed the cap to the master cylinder, then you have introduced moisture into the braking system. Not enough moisture to cause a problem but still moisture nontheless. Since it is long term moisture that causes brake system components to fail (thanks to the great hydroscopic capabilities of the fluid), I replace the fluid.

It's an easy job with minimal cost, unlike replacing a failed ABS unit. There are many cars manufacturers that say the cooking system is maintenance free and has special additives (Audi, for one) that should never be serviced. Want to know why the car (Audi) started running hot? Gunked up water pump and radiator caked with white crusty deposits. One owner 80,000 mile car.

-- Dave
 
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Old Jun 14, 2020 | 09:31 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
I see nothing wrong with dry pads but checking or greasing the pins as needed. I have never used anything between the caliper and pad in the last 40 plus years.

Similar to you, I have cracked open the bleeder screw to push the piston back but usually only do this if the master cylinder reservoir doesn't appear to have room to accept the fluid pushed back from the caliper.
Anyone else having problems with the mounting plates rusting and freezing the pads in place? Could be just me, but while we were talking brakes, I thought I would ask.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2020 | 09:47 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
Brake fluid should be flushed EVERY two years with the type specified in your manual. DO NOT put DOT4 in a vehicle equipped with DOT3. Brake fluid is under EXTREME pressure and temperatures and it can boil/burn at the calipers even under normal operation. PLUS it attracts moisture
DOT 3 and 4 are compatible with eachother. DOT 4 offers a higher boiling point.. DOT 5 is incompatible being silicone but 5.1 is also compatible
 
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Old Jun 14, 2020 | 10:14 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Djosbun
I also replace all the brake fluid every couple of years, although I have done some cars more frequently.

If you have even removed the cap to the master cylinder, then you have introduced moisture into the braking system. Not enough moisture to cause a problem but still moisture nontheless. Since it is long term moisture that causes brake system components to fail (thanks to the great hydroscopic capabilities of the fluid), I replace the fluid.

It's an easy job with minimal cost, unlike replacing a failed ABS unit. There are many cars manufacturers that say the cooking system is maintenance free and has special additives (Audi, for one) that should never be serviced. Want to know why the car (Audi) started running hot? Gunked up water pump and radiator caked with white crusty deposits. One owner 80,000 mile car.

-- Dave
Personal preference David. I still say it is not needed but for many an OCD issue.

BTW, Ford specs for the DOT 3 and DOT 4 has the LV designation.
 
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