motor knocking?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 409
Likes: 4
From: oregon
Would this cause a knock all of a sudden. Literally no knock drove in shop fighting the twenty bird under boost. Intake reseal start and sounds as if the crank is about to land at my feet. Then with some reving the knock goes almost completely away. Now I start it I can't hardly hear it, but its there. Think a injector just popped loose that bad then could quiet up? Or combo of air and one loosening up? Out of all the injectors iv done (15ish+ sets) never had one loosen up but heck anything is possible. Notice a high pitch wining from the alternator so that is going to het replaced under warranty.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Not likely a problem with rotating assembly.
More likely an injector problem. Broken nozzle spring or similar would cause fuel dribble that can be like a hydro lock. Same thing with loose injector.
Its free to check injectors.
More likely an injector problem. Broken nozzle spring or similar would cause fuel dribble that can be like a hydro lock. Same thing with loose injector.
Its free to check injectors.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 409
Likes: 4
From: oregon
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 409
Likes: 4
From: oregon
also last night I went to the store to get it warmed up enough to get the perdels for ya and when I drive by a guard rail I can hear a clanking like a heat shield loose but sounds from the clutch? I can hear the noise when I first started it. Sounds like its coming from the bellhousing? I undid my shifter boot so I could hear better and I think that might be the knock as well? Sounds like metal chattering and getting swiped against each other. Weird metallic noise so. Ima check injectors and push rods tonight and get the tranny back in my work truck tomorrow and if I don't find anything wrong in the upper end ima take my bora scope and look in threw the slave cylinder hole and see if I see anything. If it wasn't a manual I would suspect a broken flex plate. I put the clutch in November last year south bend dual disc rated at 650 so maybe something is kaka in there?
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 409
Likes: 4
From: oregon
So may have made some headway today, back of the flywheel has no markings like a bolt backed out of the rear main seal cover or anything. Will look in threw the slave hole tomorrow, found my fuel line leaking where the feed goes into the passenger front head, pulled it into the shop today and diesel was all over my tranny from the top side valley holes are full and running down the front of my motor all over the cps and wiring. So ordered two black cps's from riff raff they will be here tomorrow, im hoping that has something to do with the knocking. Getting air back into the system after shutdown possibly, low fuel pressure in the passenger bank maybe as well. Then the cps get soaked in oil im sure is great, i noticed the idle was hunting a little today up for a bit then down then up. So I went to look at the cps wiring and thats when I noticed diesel everywhere. Will check injectors tomorrow and look in the belhousing as well. Notice a slight heavier knock or extra knock on the driverside when i stick my head up by the shock. So maybe there's something there. Ill get a videos of all the injectors running and rockers and spin the pushrods make sure there's no wobble.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 409
Likes: 4
From: oregon
So may have found the smoking gun i hope. So ran a buzz test, 2468 and 5 all failed high low side circuit. Gt dri ers side valve cover off and unhooked each injector one by one. #8 hardly makes a difference, unhook #2 and this little metal tank every so often doesn't seem to be happening either. Also I'm getting icp codes but I believe thats from unplugging each injector. Pulling passenger valve cover off and will be doing the same there then a compression test before injectors get sent back off. So I read on a compression test let the truck crank 5 times and get your reading? That correct, also in the standard harbrfreight diesel compression checker does it com with the 10x1 fitting for the gp holes on ours by chance? I now theres issues with those but I just really wanna make sure 8 isn't a dead hole before I go sending injectors off and expecting a different outcome when get them back.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 409
Likes: 4
From: oregon
So figured out that little tiny sound or heat sheild tink i was hearing was the injectors, #2 #1 and #5 i believe are doing it. I'm pretty sure the injector in #8 hole is stuck open some. Iv noticed a little white gray smoke when I drove it the other day and have noticed it since I put these in. Every injector adjusts the idle except for 8 but the truck runs pretty smooth at idle for a injector not contributing so im pretty sure that knocking was a fuel knock on #8. Bought the harbor freight compression guage. Decent for 30$, thought it would work... nope, going to get the 10x1 boss fitting tomorrow and the skinniest grese hose i can. I had all the stuff at home just not enough room for the crap I had. To be continued tell tomorrow when I can the parts to actually get it to fit. Also.... took the passenger side valve cover off and hear a puff of air thinking glow plug is leaking or a injector is. But since injectors are coming out yet again I am not going to worry about it unless its there after I get it back together. So just for ****s and giggles if I switch #8 and #6 injectors just for diagnostic purposes can I just flop them without doing new orings and coppers?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 409
Likes: 4
From: oregon
Going to a fathers day thing so I didn't have time to get it hot so I did a cold comp check just to get a idea and not to good cold.
Rear
350. 250
350. 350
280. 350
220. 350
. Front
But still leaves me questioning that #8 injector i would expect maybe 50psi for what it was doing.
Rear
350. 250
350. 350
280. 350
220. 350
. Front
But still leaves me questioning that #8 injector i would expect maybe 50psi for what it was doing.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 409
Likes: 4
From: oregon
Also wanna add I'm hearing a thud cranking the motor over out the intake so I'm almost wondering if I got a leaking intake valve or two. At any rate, #'s don't look good and a rebuild is in order for this motor, but not yet. Ill buy a used block crank and forged rods and get the bottom end fixed up on the new one and get a set of heads to rebuild and throw all the goodies in that motor. Need to wait for some more $ to roll in, just dropped 3 into this thing and threw 7k into a one ton swap, links, and coilovers on my sidekick so im kinda drained and about ready to be done bleeding money here. End of summer I can rebuild this thing and do it right. Ill do it myself and should be close to 2k as long as I don't need every cylinder sleeved.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
Those compression numbers don’t explain the noise.
A ‘thud’ is often a bent push rod.
$2k is a little low for a rebuild, but possible if no head work is needed and front cover is good, etc.
A ‘thud’ is often a bent push rod.
$2k is a little low for a rebuild, but possible if no head work is needed and front cover is good, etc.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 409
Likes: 4
From: oregon
So been busy taking a trip to the rubicon, and then started blue berry harvest so iv been doing 14 to 18 hr days. Finally got a day off pulled the injectors and sent them back to get flow tested #8 mainly and fix buzz test failures on the 5 injectors. 3 cylinders are definitely dusted but with the boroscope cylinders look good so i bought a forged rod motor from a 2000 that I got to hear run. So soon as harvest is over I will do a compression test before it goes in just to make sure it's in decent condition before I go threw the trouble of slapping it in. But depending on compression of the new to me motor will determine my future plan on a rebuild or not of the original motor.
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