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The inner axle seal area should be ok. As long as the ring of the housing around the outside of the seal goes. If it is flat all the way around, It should be OK. It looks to have a couple of chips out of it, But that was probably from the machining operation at the Spicer plant. As long as the bearing race fits and does not rock around, should be good. Of course you need new seals, The diff shims go under the bearing cone, no under the race.
The heated mirrors, I know ford used them on a L9000 because one of the fire tankers we built had them from ford, The one on passenger side also had a rotation feature.
I appreciate the input. I went by the local machine shop and the guy said the same thing. RVT black should solve the issue when i put in the new seals and there shouldnt be an issue. He said if i was really worried he could weld it and machine it for $150 bucks or so. i think ill just go the RVT route, even though if i were to get it machined, now would be the time to do it since its not on the truck and is in pieces... and "relatively easy" to move around.
WOW! That D60 has been rode hard. Most of those parts can still be purchased thru Spicer but not all of them. I have had good luck buying good used parts for them over at Pirate 4x4 forum. If you aren't a member there, you definitely should join, lots of good dudes there! https://www.pirate4x4.com/forums/
While you are at it, replace those junk warn lockouts with the original OEM factory Spicer lockouts!! Spicer is the best!! just my $.02
Yeah it definitely was used!! thanks for the input on hubs. might upgrade to 35 spline outers and will have to get hubs accordingly. The guy i purchased the axle from is giving me a new warn hub. Might sell and put toward build. Ah man! As an Oregonian i almost feel obligated to support Warn!
Awesome detailed pictures. I appreciate seeing them.
Of course. I will do my best to keep the picture trend going. of course its somewhat of a hassle. Still wish i would've taken more photos when i did the Cummins swap..
So i had a discussion with the gentleman that sold me the 60. He had no clue of the crack and i believe him. He bought and never ran it. Genuine guy and he wanted to keep in touch, so i knew he wasnt trying to get over on me. Anyway, he has an extra set of outer knuckles hes going to give me, along with new tie rod and drag link to convert to cross over steering, which i planned to do. He is also giving me a set of outer axles that are supposedly undamaged. Might use them or sell and budget or 35 spline outers. I know, probably dont need them.. but probably didn't need a d60 in the first place. Also throwing in an unused Warn hub for 30 spline d60. He has a set of rear doors that are in good shape dent wise.. but wont open. if i can help him get them open and depending on the shape of the bottom... wouldn't mind getting my hands on those. He sold the frame so just the crew cab "cab" left.
If you can get the outer door panel off (very carefully of course) and then remove panel 23220 or 21130 and see if you can pull on rod # 21940 to release them?
I appreciate the input. I went by the local machine shop and the guy said the same thing. RVT black should solve the issue when i put in the new seals and there shouldnt be an issue. He said if i was really worried he could weld it and machine it for $150 bucks or so. i think ill just go the RVT route, even though if i were to get it machined, now would be the time to do it since its not on the truck and is in pieces... and "relatively easy" to move around.
Definitely easier to move when empty. While it is empty, I drilled a drain hole in the bottom of the case and put a 1/4 pipe plug in for a drain. Just tapped it deep enough to get plug below the housing.
I'm pretty sure the 78/79 drivers side lower plate is unique from the others, it's the one you always see people looking for. They're usually selling in the $120-150 range on Ebay. Sets only go for $20-50 more because the pass side plate is the same up to '97.
Did the rust eat a big void into the casting around that seal? Is the seat face scored? If it's just a void, it shouldn't matter, as long as the shims and bearings can still seat correctly and the seal has full contact. A little RTV around the new seal should take care of any gaps.
Nope, drivers side is the same between 60 & 44. I've got plenty of them around here.
Nope, drivers side is the same between 60 & 44. I've got plenty of them around here.
I don't know if there was some variations or what, but when I replaced my 44 in my 78 with a 60 from a 79 that drivers side plate was different. At first I thought I was screwed but the axle had come with some misc. parts in a box, and it was in that box. What a relief it was to find it.
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