Question about egrs. Have no idea what the original egr came with this truck. 77 F100 302 3sp manual transmission. California smog not complete. No solenoid valve, or relay, and the list goes on, but it does have the air pump. Went to the napa web site and with 6 different egrs and more questions that nobody seems to know. Other than the mounting bolts being one smaller than the other seems to be the only thing that matters. Put in a new gas tank and filters, ran new grounds and though there was some thing good going to happen. So I'm not getting any gas to the float bowl so time to pull that brand new china built carburetor and deal with the egr once and for all. Any ideas on what is the difference between ported or inter. back pressure and more and 1 that doesn't even state either way which is the one thats on it now. I got answers from this site about my dash issues so fast it blew me away. So I would appreciate any help because I know this is the place to be for answers where you think there is none. Thank you.

 

OK so what specifically are you asking?

 

I guess what I'm asking is what or how to figure out what egr should be on this motor. Sense there appears to be a difference in the performance of the egr that I haven't been able to find any information.

 

This is the correct EGR valve for your application

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2717&jsn=2717

 

After having a drink or two and thinking about my question, I understand that not knowing what smog package and all the variables, it wouldn't matter, because it's not being used as designed. This egr question started 3 months ago just as covid 19 started. I had the carb and egr out,and the egr wouldn't hold vacuum. Went to O,Reilly's. Ordered the match of the old. They bring out the new one in a box and it had the gasket with gasket sealer stuck on the thing and trying to sell it as new. That one wouldn't hold vacuum and someone brought it back. They order another one, and that wouldn't hold vacuum either. O,reilly's have no problem restocking their returned parts. So If I do away with the air pump and keep the tvs for the egr is there like a common egr? Just wondering.

 

Many Ford EGR's in this era won't hold vacuum, they use a combination of exhaust backpressure and vacuum to operate. So if you modify the exhaust system it will affect EGR operation
If you live in a locale that requires emissions inspection and testing keep the emissions systems in place, otherwise you are better off yanking them. The EGR is there to reduce NOx emissions and has no other positive benefit, and will reduce power and fuel economy.

 

The Ford parts catalog shows two possibilities depending on whether your truck cam with California emissions or not.
'77 F100 w/ 302 and manual transmission:
with Cali emissions D3OZ-9D475-C
without Cali emissions D5TZ-9D475-C
Probably the best way to get the most accurate info on your emissions system is to use the number that's on the label on the valve cover.It looks like it says XK3324A. If you can find a copy of the '77 Ford emissions manual you can use that number to see what system you have.

 

Thank you,

 

[QUOTE=mikeo0o0o0;19312616]The Ford parts catalog shows two possibilities depending on whether your truck cam with California emissions or not.
'77 F100 w/ 302 and manual transmission:
with Cali emissions D3OZ-9D475-C
without Cali emissions D5TZ-9D475-C

Probably the best way to get the most accurate info on your emissions system is to use the number that's on the label on the valve cover.
It should look like this



Which By the way here in Commifornia, it is a NO-NO to make or have one made for a vehicle that needs emmissions inspections every two years,('76-today)
Even for restorations

Best way for Him to go about finding out is to go to his local smog shop and see about getting a diagram like this



This is copy of what my shop gave me a few years ago.
I know this doesn't answer his question as to "WHICH" EGR to use, most parts houses sell egr valves with a variety of metal washers which go in the ports on the egr valve which are numbered, that restrict or increase flow thru the EGR valve. I just had to replace mine last month to pass emmission test this year, my old one was toast.

 

[QUOTE=dads1977;19313850]You guys answer what I was looking for. The most knowledge and information that I could ask for. There's no information under the hood. My brother gave me this truck that he bought new in 1977. He lost interest after putting a new ford short block, clutch, radiator and a paint job that he has no receipts for which was about 15 to20 yrs ago. Drove it occasionally and he says for less than a 1,000 miles.
I called napa Auto parts and the D3OZ is available. And after getting approval I'm ordering today. The EGR is a question that does not like to be asked. The egr on the motor now was one that was put on right before he parked it. Its for a 302 but thats about it. It won't hold vacuum, and 2 new ones wouldn't hold vacuum.
So now I'm being told it's designed that way. I don't want a egr that won't hold vacuum and I'm betting 80. bucks that the o/e does. Thanks, you guys take a lot of stress off.


It only needed brakes and fresh gas. Love it. What else would I be doing during a lock down and retired.

Leaving my brother's house. July 2019

Mikeo0o0o0 thanks again. Finally figured out how to get pictures on hear.


Home

 

NICE looking truck .

 

Thanks Mike, order the egr from napa today, 92.00. Shipping from the manufacturer. Better not be from China. Still better than buying online. I'm almost there, still have a few things, put the dash back together, all new bezels, circuits broad. Have a problem with my volt gauge, dim lights that do brighten with engine revs. Found a corroded ground, intake to firewall. Replaced ground strap to same location after wire brushing. And new regulator from O'Reilly, with no change. Got rid of the manifold to firewall strap and went from bell housing to chassis then chassis to firewall. Don't know if it's right but I'm sure it is better than before. I crawled that darned thing and never found a chassis ground. I'll be pulling the carburetor, egr, the dash to ring that out. And here we go again. Speaking of dash, I'm hoping if I ohm out the volt gauge I should get some reaction on the needle? I have a fluke 87 meter so I'm thinking 9volts across the contacts should show something if good. What do you think, my fix anything with nothing days seems to be over.

 

Actually, that's not a volt gauge, that's an ammeter, and it's pretty much useless. Even when they were new there were problems with them, so much so that Ford had to release a TSB to deal with the problems.
To check to see if the gauge works I use a 9V battery so your meter should work fine.
If you'd like to have a voltmeter that works instead of an, at best, questionable ammeter you can have your ammeter converted to a voltmeter by this guy:
https://www.rccinnovations.com/index...=menu-volt-all
There are two versions, one keeps the original ammeter face with the D-ALT-C. The other changes to the 10-BAT-15 voltmeter face.

 

Checked out the website and very reasonable. Almost painless. Thanks again and I'm sure I'll be back.

 

First time poster. 76f100 302 2 barrel c4 I am stumped to find 2 egr valves?? 1 is conventional to bolt onto intake spacer. The other is mounted to a block in between egr and spacer??? Vacuum hose goes from real 1 port egr to other three has 2 ports. I am lost at what I am looking at. Any help is great. Thanks