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The only issues with LEDs on the trailer is to be sure you get the polarity right - they don't work if hooked up backwards. Just like any DIODE, the current only goes one way!!
I rewired my 18' car-hauler trailer with all new wiring and LED lighting, and added a few more 'clearance lights' lights as well. Now all LED clearance lights, and replaced the incandescent tails and license plate light with LEDs. Now less electrical draw even with the added mid-ship running lights on the fenders and additional three-light bar on the rear crossmember. My truck already had the trailer-tow lighting relay package, so the blinker and flasher rates are unaffected by the change.
The only issues with LEDs on the trailer is to be sure you get the polarity right - they don't work if hooked up backwards. Just like any DIODE, the current only goes one way!!
I rewired my 18' car-hauler trailer with all new wiring and LED lighting, and added a few more 'clearance lights' lights as well. Now all LED clearance lights, and replaced the incandescent tails and license plate light with LEDs. Now less electrical draw even with the added mid-ship running lights on the fenders and additional three-light bar on the rear crossmember. My truck already had the trailer-tow lighting relay package, so the blinker and flasher rates are unaffected by the change.
This is what I should have asked...do I need to add anything to my electrical trailer wiring if I put LED lighting on the trailer?
Wasn't there an issue with LED lights, specifically the rear cab light, that affected TQ lockup?
After install, you'll want to make sure that doesn't affect TQ lockup.
I could be wrong, but i think the main issue with LED lights is that they don't draw enough current for some circuits to work correctly. But that shouldn't be an issue with LED lights on a trailer, because the truck works fine with no trailer connected, which draws even less current than LEDs. In fact, the heavy duty flashers are required so the flasher will work with the EXTRA draw of incandescent trailer lights. You might be able to get by with a standard flasher using LEDs on the trailer.
I could be wrong, but i think the main issue with LED lights is that they don't draw enough current for some circuits to work correctly. But that shouldn't be an issue with LED lights on a trailer, because the truck works fine with no trailer connected, which draws even less current than LEDs. In fact, the heavy duty flashers are required so the flasher will work with the EXTRA draw of incandescent trailer lights. You might be able to get by with a standard flasher using LEDs on the trailer.
The requirement for heavy-duty flasher (the can-shaped thing under the dash or on the fuse block) that one can hear clicking on many older cars/trucks is what you'd use as a band-aid if the vehicle in question did not have the trailer-tow option that uses heavy-duty relays. In that case, the tow vehicle lights trigger a relay (low current draw to the tow vehicle) and then a higher-current separate power lead is used for the trailer lights. LEDs use such little power that no heavy-duty 'trailer-tow' relays or flasher can are required. BUT if you do have them, you won't notice anything either... Now electric trailer brakes are another matter... You'll want to use a relay triggered by the tow rig brake lights to send the higher-current needed to operate the trailer brakes.