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Folks, through some digging I have found that my '93 f250 has a side mount 3G alternator. See link below, please correct if wrong.
Does anyone know of a per-made 150+amp alternator? I am sure a 130 would probably be enough for a pusher fan, my small light bars, future computer upgrade and other basic stuff but I would rather have the extra juice if its demanded.
Also, does anyone have a photo of how the wiring was done, for the monster fuse and 2 gauge charge wire changeover? everytime I find a thread with photos it either doesn't exist anymore or they don't load.
First verify what size charge cable you have now with your current 95a 3G. It's probably an 8ga but you could get lucky, so might as well check.
If it's smallish (smaller than a battery cable, but larger than most other wires on the truck) and Black it's probably the 8ga standard version. If it looks like it's larger, virtually the same size as the battery and starter cables and has a reddish stripe (looks more orange), it's probably 6ga or better and can handle the 130a models easily. Avoiding having to mess with any of the cables would be fantastic! Pipe dream maybe, but fun to contemplate anyway.
I'm not sure if Ford ever put the big stuff on the trucks that got the 95a or not, but they were using it elsewhere so it's possible. I grabbed a section of charge cable out of a full-size van once because it was larger still at 4 gauge. It's quite long in that application, so Ford upsized it even more.
We sell a 6ga with Mega-Fuse kit for Broncos (https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc...ronco_Starters) which would probably work in a pinch, but if you want to make it custom to your tastes you can find the fuses and cable at most local parts stores, and even the holders at some of the more well stocked stores. If not you can find different style holders online too. You can use Mega or Midi styles, and maybe some others, but I would not use a Maxi (looks like a large standard blade fuse) because you typically won't find a rating near that high in stock at the local parts store.
If you like to make your own stuff then local is a good way to go.
The reason we use a 175a rated fuse, instead of a 150a like most would expect, is because while I can't speak for original equipment units, a high percentage of 3G rebuilds have 150a or better output.
Sorry I don't have any pics of installs on our vintage trucks. The concept is very straightforward. It's just the application of such concepts that can take time!
With luck your original charge cable is just a straight shot from the back of the alternator to the battery side of the starter relay on the fender. You should see it there in the form of two smaller wires making up a fusible-link section. This is what you're replacing with the Mega-Fuse.
Because Ford uses that slick molded "strain relief" at the starter relay, the battery cables can last a long time. But now might be the time to replace them all because if they're original they're pushing 30 years, and "because you're in there already" as an excuse and double your upgrade.
GM owners call this "The Big 3" upgrade. Larger battery, starter and charge cables.
Some would keep the original charge wire in place and add the new one over the top of it to save the trouble of removing all the factory wrapping, shielding, anchoring and whatnot, but I usually recommend replacing it all anyway. Can't argue that there's anything wrong with adding the new cable on top of the old, but I generally feel that since all the battery cables are likely almost 30 years old and have served well, it's a good time to upgrade to a larger gauge and just get some new blood in there.
Of course, with some of the awkward places to work, some of that "new blood" might be your own!
I don't have any links saved to discussions about new battery cables and what people had to go through on '93 to '97 trucks like ours, but I'm sure they're out there and can help you decide where/how to route the charge cable. It can go straight to the battery positive if you want, or to the battery side of the starter relay where Ford has it. Whichever is most convenient. (usually the relay)
In case you weren't sure, a picture of what the fusible link end looks like:
Both of those gray wires connected on the right of the starter relay are fusible-links. I'm "assuming" that the double link circled is the one for the charge cable. The larger cables use this double-wire link, but I'm not sure why they would need it for 8ga wire and have not gotten out my book to see what the other link is for.
But either way, as you're removing the old charge cable from the mix you will find out soon enough what is at the other end.
And if you were ever tempted to leave the battery connected while you're performing some work on the alternator... DON'T!
As you know the charge wire is essentially connected directly to the battery positive. So disconnect the battery every time before working on a charge wire.
Paul
(edit: PS pay no attention to the improperly crimped and under-sized ground wires in the picture. The lug is a PO modification, that does happen to work very well, but I'm leaving it there until I change to the different lug and larger cable.
I must say though, that flip-lever thingy is very handy!
First verify what size charge cable you have now with your current 95a 3G. It's probably an 8ga but you could get lucky, so might as well check.
If it's smallish (smaller than a battery cable, but larger than most other wires on the truck) and Black it's probably the 8ga standard version. If it looks like it's larger, virtually the same size as the battery and starter cables and has a reddish stripe (looks more orange), it's probably 6ga or better and can handle the 130a models easily. Avoiding having to mess with any of the cables would be fantastic! Pipe dream maybe, but fun to contemplate anyway.
I'm not sure if Ford ever put the big stuff on the trucks that got the 95a or not, but they were using it elsewhere so it's possible. I grabbed a section of charge cable out of a full-size van once because it was larger still at 4 gauge. It's quite long in that application, so Ford upsized it even more.
We sell a 6ga with Mega-Fuse kit for Broncos (https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc...ronco_Starters) which would probably work in a pinch, but if you want to make it custom to your tastes you can find the fuses and cable at most local parts stores, and even the holders at some of the more well stocked stores. If not you can find different style holders online too. You can use Mega or Midi styles, and maybe some others, but I would not use a Maxi (looks like a large standard blade fuse) because you typically won't find a rating near that high in stock at the local parts store.
If you like to make your own stuff then local is a good way to go.
The reason we use a 175a rated fuse, instead of a 150a like most would expect, is because while I can't speak for original equipment units, a high percentage of 3G rebuilds have 150a or better output.
Sorry I don't have any pics of installs on our vintage trucks. The concept is very straightforward. It's just the application of such concepts that can take time!
With luck your original charge cable is just a straight shot from the back of the alternator to the battery side of the starter relay on the fender. You should see it there in the form of two smaller wires making up a fusible-link section. This is what you're replacing with the Mega-Fuse.
Because Ford uses that slick molded "strain relief" at the starter relay, the battery cables can last a long time. But now might be the time to replace them all because if they're original they're pushing 30 years, and "because you're in there already" as an excuse and double your upgrade.
GM owners call this "The Big 3" upgrade. Larger battery, starter and charge cables.
Some would keep the original charge wire in place and add the new one over the top of it to save the trouble of removing all the factory wrapping, shielding, anchoring and whatnot, but I usually recommend replacing it all anyway. Can't argue that there's anything wrong with adding the new cable on top of the old, but I generally feel that since all the battery cables are likely almost 30 years old and have served well, it's a good time to upgrade to a larger gauge and just get some new blood in there.
Of course, with some of the awkward places to work, some of that "new blood" might be your own!
I don't have any links saved to discussions about new battery cables and what people had to go through on '93 to '97 trucks like ours, but I'm sure they're out there and can help you decide where/how to route the charge cable. It can go straight to the battery positive if you want, or to the battery side of the starter relay where Ford has it. Whichever is most convenient. (usually the relay)
Good luck.
Paul
Paul, can I rewire your fuse to handle 2 gauge with a 215 amp fuse or so?
i am looking at a 200 amp unit from powermaster performance.
I would like it to be as pre-done as possible to make it simple. Modifying things isn’t my specialty, I can r/i or R/r just about anything but...
In case you weren't sure, a picture of what the fusible link end looks like:
Both of those gray wires connected on the right of the starter relay are fusible-links. I'm "assuming" that the double link circled is the one for the charge cable. The larger cables use this double-wire link, but I'm not sure why they would need it for 8ga wire and have not gotten out my book to see what the other link is for.
But either way, as you're removing the old charge cable from the mix you will find out soon enough what is at the other end.
And if you were ever tempted to leave the battery connected while you're performing some work on the alternator... DON'T!
As you know the charge wire is essentially connected directly to the battery positive. So disconnect the battery every time before working on a charge wire.
Paul
(edit: PS pay no attention to the improperly crimped and under-sized ground wires in the picture. The lug is a PO modification, that does happen to work very well, but I'm leaving it there until I change to the different lug and larger cable.
I must say though, that flip-lever thingy is very handy!
Thanks for the photo!
As far as I know only the diesels got a bigger one, maybe.
but the E series did get a 130 option, the ambulance package has a 150 option but requires some extra parts.
truthfully a 130 would probably cover me, but I would like the extra juice if I ever buy a winch, more lights, better audio or anything that may happen in the unknown adventures the future holds.
Paul, can I rewire your fuse to handle 2 gauge with a 215 amp fuse or so?
Yes, the studs and fuse sizes are standard for the fuse holders, so the only thing we'd need to verify is that a particular holder is rated fro more than 200amps itself. Usually is, and I think these are 5/16" studs, but it never hurts to verify.
But it does not care what the rating of the fuse is, because a Mega is a Mega a Midi is a Midi and are a standard physical size within their types. The 2ga wire will fit just fine as long as you use the proper end terminals with the right size hole.
Not to lose a sale of course, but you can hunt around for different styles of holders too, to make sure you're getting one that fits your needs. Ours is perfect for places where some of the holders with larger footprints can't quite fit. And I've seen smaller too I think, but I can't remember where.
I'll see if I can get you a price (we don't normally sell it separately) so you can make an informed decision.
Originally Posted by Hobby welder
i am looking at a 200 amp unit from powermaster performance.
Originally Posted by Hobby welder
I would like it to be as pre-done as possible to make it simple. Modifying things isn’t my specialty, I can r/i or R/r just about anything but...
Good brand with a generally good reputation.
For most of us, the 130a stock output is already overkill for pretty much anything you're going to throw at it. But as soon as you mentioned "winch" below all bets were off!
The stereos can use bigger alts sometimes, but only for the biggest amplifiers with users that try to get the most out of their monster woofers. Most normal installations are more than well served by a 130a alternator. Maybe be certain that you are for sure going to put a winch on it then.
And that it's not going to be twenty years from now, when you'd probably need a new alternator too!
Yes, the studs and fuse sizes are standard for the fuse holders, so the only thing we'd need to verify is that a particular holder is rated fro more than 200amps itself. Usually is, and I think these are 5/16" studs, but it never hurts to verify.
But it does not care what the rating of the fuse is, because a Mega is a Mega a Midi is a Midi and are a standard physical size within their types. The 2ga wire will fit just fine as long as you use the proper end terminals with the right size hole.
Not to lose a sale of course, but you can hunt around for different styles of holders too, to make sure you're getting one that fits your needs. Ours is perfect for places where some of the holders with larger footprints can't quite fit. And I've seen smaller too I think, but I can't remember where.
I'll see if I can get you a price (we don't normally sell it separately) so you
Good brand with a generally good reputation.
For most of us, the 130a stock output is already overkill for pretty much anything you're going to throw at it. But as soon as you mentioned "winch" below all bets were off!
The stereos can use bigger alts sometimes, but only for the biggest amplifiers with users that try to get the most out of their monster woofers. Most normal installations are more than well served by a 130a alternator. Maybe be certain that you are for sure going to put a winch on it then.
And that it's not going to be twenty years from now, when you'd probably need a new alternator too!
Paul
thank you! Send me a PM or post it here, either works.
Its interesting how mods happen. I now have a ranch hand bumper with grille guard that has a 2” receiver that I picked up for free. Had to mod it from a wrecked chevy but...
for now, just some light performance mods but ill get my CB working again and upgrade the audio, no subs but better speakers than the “Ford premium audio” circa 1993 isn’t quite as crisp as it once was.
No problem. It's not normally sold separately, but no problem giving the info publicly since they're available for sale. Since we buy them separate from the wire and make the cables in house, I figured we could sell them. And it turns out we can.
The part number for the fuse holder only is #6025B and they're $12.99 each.
Good for up to 300 amps too, so you're good there as well.
Speaking of in-house... If you want I can ask if we'll make custom length cables too, but here they would only be 6ga because that's what we have.
If there is any 4ga left over from other projects that could work too, but we would not normally have 2ga in stock.
You would just need to provide the desired lengths.
If you choose the 2ga, it's available more and more often that I've seen at the more well equipped auto parts stores. Along side the 4ga bulk cable.
No problem. It's not normally sold separately, but no problem giving the info publicly since they're available for sale. Since we buy them separate from the wire and make the cables in house, I figured we could sell them. And it turns out we can.
The part number for the fuse holder only is #6025B and they're $12.99 each.
Good for up to 300 amps too, so you're good there as well.
Speaking of in-house... If you want I can ask if we'll make custom length cables too, but here they would only be 6ga because that's what we have.
If there is any 4ga left over from other projects that could work too, but we would not normally have 2ga in stock.
You would just need to provide the desired lengths.
If you choose the 2ga, it's available more and more often that I've seen at the more well equipped auto parts stores. Along side the 4ga bulk cable.
Paul
I will get you a length later this week; once I have that please let me know what you have in stock wire wise.
Sorry to report, only 6ga at the moment, and no custom lengths. So you're stuck unless it just happens to work out you can get by on 6ga and ours is already the length you need. Approx. 26" on one, 14" on the other.
But the good news is that you needed the measurements anyway, so the work was not for naught.
Sorry to report, only 6ga at the moment, and no custom lengths. So you're stuck unless it just happens to work out you can get by on 6ga and ours is already the length you need. Approx. 26" on one, 14" on the other.
But the good news is that you needed the measurements anyway, so the work was not for naught.
Paul
No Worries!
I totally spaced on measuring, but ye olde local ford dealership did the cruise control recall fix on the truck. So I guess I accomplished something this weekend.
