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Old May 28, 2020 | 05:03 PM
  #1  
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From: Tempe
Radiator Flush

Hey guys!
Little update on the '78 300 project. I recently did a full tune-up, but being in phoenix and its hotter than the devils d***, I have noticed she might be running a little warm. I know that the factory gauges aren't too reliable, but when I first got her a few months ago and it was cooler, she would get right to about the N/O on normal and stay there. Now that its getting hot, we're creeping past the M. It has a new thermostat that was installed before I bought it, and the radiator seems like its in good condition. I think there is a shop around me that can rod them out, which is also an option since I'm not leaking anything so its not like it needs to be replaced. Could I simply disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses, let the old coolant drain out, then refill it? I know thats not a complete flush, just brainstorming here. The coolant doesn't look old, but based on how disgusting the oil was when I changed that, who knows!
 
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Old May 28, 2020 | 07:30 PM
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Flushing is sort of a preventative measure but basically useless if your radiator is plugged. that's why they call it rodding out.

I would save the money you'll waste flushing it and get the radiator either rodded or replace it. this is a very common problem and the cause of most overheating problems.
 
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Old May 28, 2020 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter41
Hey guys!
Little update on the '78 300 project. I recently did a full tune-up, but being in phoenix and its hotter than the devils d***, I have noticed she might be running a little warm. I know that the factory gauges aren't too reliable, but when I first got her a few months ago and it was cooler, she would get right to about the N/O on normal and stay there. Now that its getting hot, we're creeping past the M. It has a new thermostat that was installed before I bought it, and the radiator seems like its in good condition. I think there is a shop around me that can rod them out, which is also an option since I'm not leaking anything so its not like it needs to be replaced. Could I simply disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses, let the old coolant drain out, then refill it? I know that's not a complete flush, just brainstorming here. The coolant doesn't look old, but based on how disgusting the oil was when I changed that, who knows!
It's just May and if it's already hotter than the devil's duck, it will likely get worse before it gets better. Perhaps a complete analysis of the cooling system is in order before it gets really hot. Be sure the thermostat is opening correctly. Check it in a pot of water on your stove with a known good thermometer. If you drain & replace the coolant remember that there is a lot in the engine also. It's best to change all of it and not mix old with new. You can check congestion in the radiator with an IR thermometer. Then you'll have a good idea if a rodding out is needed.
 
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Old May 29, 2020 | 12:34 AM
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If your thermostat has been changed make sure you have a high flow thermostat makes a big difference.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milodon-164...sAAOSwa-dWjX~9

If you have access to a laser thermostat you can detect hot spots in the radiator and know it is the problem.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-The...ec6c39e730b6ec
 
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Old May 29, 2020 | 09:46 AM
  #5  
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It is also very easy to put the thermostat in the 240/300 water neck backwards. However, your problem is most likely a clogged radiator.
 
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Old May 29, 2020 | 09:48 AM
  #6  
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From: Tempe
Originally Posted by Ozzie H.
It's just May and if it's already hotter than the devil's duck, it will likely get worse before it gets better. Perhaps a complete analysis of the cooling system is in order before it gets really hot. Be sure the thermostat is opening correctly. Check it in a pot of water on your stove with a known good thermometer. If you drain & replace the coolant remember that there is a lot in the engine also. It's best to change all of it and not mix old with new. You can check congestion in the radiator with an IR thermometer. Then you'll have a good idea if a rodding out is needed.
That was the plan this weekend. I don't have any leaks but I am going to check and make sure the hoses aren't collapsing or anything like that. I haven't gotten close to overheating, but its definitely running warmer than I would like. It's the stop and go that does it. When I'm on the highway it pretty much stays at the R.
 
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Old May 29, 2020 | 09:52 AM
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From: Tempe
Originally Posted by 68Flareside240
It is also very easy to put the thermostat in the 240/300 water neck backwards. However, your problem is most likely a clogged radiator.
Yep I'm going to check that out tomorrow. I'm not sure of the one that is in there, so should i just grab a 160 degree one and swap it out just so I know?
 
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Old May 29, 2020 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Christmas
If your thermostat has been changed make sure you have a high flow thermostat makes a big difference.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Milodon-164...sAAOSwa-dWjX~9

If you have access to a laser thermostat you can detect hot spots in the radiator and know it is the problem.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-The...ec6c39e730b6ec

I agree thats the correct style thermostat but you want the actual RS 330 series thermostat there is too many imported clones.


https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com...ree-thermostat
 
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Old May 29, 2020 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Peter41
Yep I'm going to check that out tomorrow. I'm not sure of the one that is in there, so should i just grab a 160 degree one and swap it out just so I know?
Use a 180 or 195 thermostat.

I suggest the 330 RS series with the 3 hole mod. Either drill the holes yourself carefully or Stewart performance sells a pre-modified version.

Pre-Modified
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RLFV9U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RLFV9U?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Stock
https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com...ree-thermostat
 
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Old May 29, 2020 | 10:23 AM
  #10  
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From: Tempe
Originally Posted by ford390gashog
Use a 180 or 195 thermostat.

I suggest the 330 RS series with the 3 hole mod. Either drill the holes yourself carefully or Stewart performance sells a pre-modified version.

Pre-Modified
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002R...b_b_asin_title

Stock
https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com...ree-thermostat
Great! Thank you for the links. Looks like ill put off my weekend plans until it comes in, and use that time to switch out the valve cover gasket. Little seepy
 
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Old May 29, 2020 | 11:28 AM
  #11  
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My Dad's 76 over heated and water would run right through radiator when flushing. Finally when I had it looked at by radiator shop there was only a few tubes open. Radiator fixed it in that case.
 
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