I have a Prodigy also (for about a year now) and have had a Kelsey/Hayes prior to that. I shorted the Kelsey out when change from the wallet pocket in the dash managed to bounce its way into a vent slot in the unit. (how strange is that?)

I think as Gunfighter does that the Prodigy is lacking in some areas. I don't see alot of difference between the accelerometer and a pendulum, as both are based on deceleration rate. The pendulum might actually have an advantage because it senses downhill conditions and can be 'manually' adjusted for various conditions such as gravel. With these systems, under heavy load, if there is not enough braking power from the truck to create the the greater decleleration rate needed; the trailer brakes don't help stop the load as much as they should. This is where the brake pedal sensor linkage would be an advantage. The harder you put your foot on the pedal, the more volts go back to the trailer.

Also, I think the incremental boost settings not only increase initial 'surge' voltage, but the pause time between brake light activation and power to the trailer brakes is shortened. Boost level 3 seems immediate while boost 1 or no boost is probably something like 1/2 a second.

On a recent towing of 10,000 lbs of hay plus a 2200 lb trailer and and 500 lbs of odds and ends in the back seat and with the 'load dial' at maximum and boost level 3, i never saw the volt meter read above 7. I could have used greater amounts of trailer brake when I had a panic stop while a car had a late left turn signal at an intersection with oncoming traffic. My rear antilock worked but my front brakes locked up under wet road conditions and lightened front end. I was able to pulse the brakes to maintain steering and was able to direct the truck up beside the car at the intersection. I could have possibly stopped behind the car, but when I realized I was able to squeeze by on the right, I didn't brake as hard. Of course I didn't look down at my voltmeter on the brake unit during the event, but I tried to brake hard a few times afterwards and couldn't record anything above a 7.
Tony G

 

A question about jackknifing: I thought the cause was when the tow slowed faster than the trailer. If the trailer brakes lock up in gravel or dirt, how does this cause a jackknife situation?

I have just ordered a new controller from MasterBrake that ties into the hydraulic line. It uses a sensor to detect line pressure and is supposed to modulate amperage to the trailer brakes based on the pressure sensed. It supposedly does not affect ABS systems. It is designed specifically for use with ElecDraulic trailer systems so I have no info as to how it works with standard electric systems. I should get it in the next couple of days. I'll post an update when I have some experience with it.

CLPF350

 

I'll take a stab at the answer. When the brakes lock up, they have less braking power... thus if the truck is braking regularly and the trailer brakes are adjusted too hard and lock up.. especially on wet or dirt roads... (and especially on a downhill).... the trailer can overcome the truck and jacknife.
The whole purpose of Anti-lock brakes is to keep the tires from locking up so the vehicle will stop faster, thus a vehicle with locked brakes doesn't have the stopping power of a vehicle with pulsing brakes.

Tony

 

I would have to agree with Tony

 

Tonyg
Duderoy

The answer makes sense to me. Thanks for the input.

CLPF350

 

The best price I have found for the Jordan 2020 Ultima is $119 + $6 for shipping. Is that about right or is there a better deal some place else?

 

Since the last post I have installed a MasterBrake contoller on my F350 dually. The controller is tied into the hydraulic system at the master cylinder. The amperage sent to the trailer is proportional to the line pressure. I've towed my rig only a short distance but this system is phenominal. There is virtually no lag time and the braking is so smooooooth!! I've been towing for 30 years and this is the best setup I have come across. My AutoMate has the Elecdraulic brake system, hydraulic braking with disk brakes. I have no idea how the MasterBrake controller would be with the normal electric brake setup. It also has provisions for an EGT indicator,digital that I was unaware of when I bought the controller. I'm going to check with MasterBrake to see about cost. Maybe I'll add it to chect EGT post turbo.

BTB MasterBrake.com or 800-758-4613. I had to order direct from the factory as my area distributor was clueless.

CLPF30

 

Gunfighter, with the discussion about the 'master brake controller' I'm wondering what the liability issues were? Is there a built in danger in these hydraulic/electric systems? Or is it just if a owner/customer hooked them up wrong?

Ummm, how can it tell how much juice is going to "each brake magnet"....if the wiring is in parallel/series? Or is what your saying that the meter reads amps not volts?

TonyG

 

I to would like to know how it monitors amps at each magnet.. It wouldn't matter parrallel or series ( series wouldn't work be the way ). The only way is if it had 4 output wires and you wired each one to a brake and had 4 amp. meters.

 

I just installed a MasterBrake controller in my F350 dually. I haven't towed far with it yet, just a few miles to confirm that everything was working. It is absolutely the best unit I have come across in 30 years of towing. It uses a sensor in the brake line to monitor pressure and sends an electrical signal to the trailer. The braking was absolutely simultaneous and very smooth. The installation was very easy and the instructions were the clearest I have ever read. I have no experience with the Jordan, or really, any but Tekonsha, but I am absolutely sold on the MasterBrake. One disclaimer, I have the ElecDraulic system on my AutoMate and I can't speak as to how this controller would work with the typical electric brake system.

CLPF350

 

OOPS! SORRY!!

I didn't check to see my previous post on the MasterBrake. Sorry for being redundant!

CLPF350

 

I think it was mainly the fact that they required you to tap into the hydraulic system and the potential for leaks and brake failure is too high. Lawyers have a field day when people modify systems, especially brakes.

As for the ammmeter, it's measuring total current delivered to the brakes. If you push the manual button with a four brake system, it should read about 12 amps or whatever you have it adjusted to. Approx 2.5 to 3 amps per brake. If you have a bad magnet or broken wire, the ammeter would read about 3 amps less. Very simple trailer brake diognostic tool built right in.