One of the terminals on negative cables which I replaced about 7 years ago from NAPA, has stripped out I tried a new bolt and nut and still can not get it tight enough. After further inspection the terminal on the cable is cracked. I could order a new drivers side battery cable and be back up and running for 70.

With the positive cable being stock and 23 years old Im thinking that brand new cables all around the truck would be wise since this is my hunting rig and goes into BFE.

I was looking at cables from custom battery cables and they have an option for hard/cold starts where the cable connected to the starter is 3.0 is there really an extra benefit for this?
I have read that 2.0 is plenty from the starter, is it worth the extra 20?

https://www.custombatterycables.com/...350-1987-1999/

I do not want to make my own cables. I did some shopping around using some cables recommend on amazon and 2 new OEM negative cables from CPaddict I would be saving 20$ compared to custom battery cables.

Has anyone used custom battery cables, any positive/negative reviews?

 

I have their negatives on the dually currently, work boss. Spring for the military terminals. When I do positives I will do the 0/3 as I have a clapped engine and if I ever had to sell it, more is always a good thing to up value of a vehicle. $20 is not enough difference to break the bank dealing with one of these turds.

They just build a set for my pal's Tbird Turbo Coupe.



I enjoyed the unintended pun of 'positive or negative' reviews.

 

Thanks for the thread, just ordered new negative cables. Already had the positive cables. Great reminder....

 

I purchased the set over the weekend, I'll report back after they are installed

 

If you have the time, post up pictures, and thoughts about their stuff. I was going to make my own but their prices are pretty good for what you're getting.

-Jake

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...a-poco-18.html

Pics in my thread there.

 

Got the cables. Almost intimidating. got mine with the tubing protector around them. To say they are built to last is an understatement. Definitely Mil Spec.

 

So I started installing the cables a couple of weeks ago but stopped when I was not able to hook them up to my Denso style starter. On custom battery cables website he gives you an option for a stock starter setup or denso. I chose the stock option in case of ever being in BFE and needing a new starter and my spare is an stock design. I had my OEM cables hooked up to the denso style no problem, but you can NOT install the custom battery cables on a Denso style starter unless you choose that option. The cables are just to thick to curve them. I ended up ordering a 2003 TYC 7.3 gear reduction starter after hearing decent things about them and 86$ shipped couldn't complain.

New starter came today and I almost finished and have noticed something, now MAYBE when I installed the NAPA negative battery cables about 7 years ago I messed up. According to the wiring diagram supplied from custom battery cables the negative on the drivers side is supposed to go from battery to block then grounded from the block to the frame. Passenger side negative is from battery to block and grounded from battery to body. Well mine where installed the opposite I had my drivers battery to block and grounded from battery to body. While passenger is battery to block and from block to frame. What is the correct way?

Another thing is when hooking up the positive cable on the passenger side I may have something wrong but the post where the cables get hooked to just doesnt seem long enough. When the starter cable, pos to relay cable, and pos to other battery pos cable is hooked up the bolt should of been at least 3/8-1/2 longer. Ill take some photos tommorow, I ran to ace hardware to purchase a longer bolt and they where closed so I stopped for the night.



Did you happen to notice any of this?

 

So I have a dumb question... I was going to install the passenger side negative cable and there's a ground wire that goes to the frame? How do you get to that bolt? Or do both grounds go to the top of the engine area? I have the driver side in and it connects to the driver side engine bay at the top for the ground wire.

 

I was curious about this too as I know people run those densos without issues on oem cables.

You think it's possible to run the denso style cables with the original OBS starter?

-Jake

 

Correct to the frame it sits on top i had no issue just getting a wrench up there to get it off. My original cable was anchored to that bolt on the frame i put it in the same spot. I hit it with some sand paper before putting the new one on.

I'm running to the auto parts store to buy larger terminals for my efuel and amp. They do not fit the new mil spec terminals and drilling them out was a fail. It just caught the bit and bent the terminal.

So far I'm not exactly throughly impressed with the kit. Mainly due to fitment. The POS to POS cable is just way to long. Ether I did something wrong on the passenger POS side but I had to buy a longer bolt just to fit everything. With the 2 1/4 bolt supplied it was only catching half the threads in the nut.

A picture of the engine bay with the cables installed would be REALLY nice. The diagram supplied is wrong on the negative cable routing. It would be nice to see how he has cut these to be installed.

Pictures coming tonight after i finish...

So far I slightly regret buying. $323 (shipped) cables should come ready to go. Should also mention if you run efuel you will need new cable ends...

No way in hell, the cables are just to stout to manipulate you would have to bend the lug. Which voids the warranty.

 

I have a 1997 and my passenger side positive cable is a little short. I think I remember there are two options to order for these years, I ordered the short one on accident I think (Passenger side positive cable).

Thanks for the info on the frame connection for the negative ground. Going to work on the tomorrow.

 

So I was almost done early, both positives hooked up went to connect my negative cable and it arched like a stick welder and spun the starter. I then decided it was time for a break and beer.

Well started multimetering things and noticed the the small cable coming from the stater that goes to the starter relay on the fender had power. It didn't make sense I thought that's what the relay was for to give power to that small cable when the key gets turned. Please connect me if I'm wrong.

Next step after double checking all my wiring is the new starter I put on is bad out of the box. Some how allowing current to flow through the starter solenoid from the main power to the 10g cable constantly. Thus causing the starter to spin when the grounds are hooked up..

Is my thought process correct throwing my spare starter on right now.. which i warranted out this week from autozone hoping this one is good.

I hope I haven't shorted anything out when it arched...

 

You don't have the wire from the relay to the starter on the same lug as the cable from the battery to the relay do you? That #10 gauge wire from the relay to the starter should be the only wire on that one lug. The battery to relay cable, the glow plug wires and the wiring to the rest of the electrical should be on the other lug. The trigger wire from the key switch should go on one of the small terminals on the relay.

 

This is effing ridiculous. So I throw my spare under which is an OBS reman starter from autozone on and now I can't get the cable to line up to hook the power up. The cable hits the back of the starter motor and can't make the turn to land on the lug.
the denso style straight lug would work but not the OEM




No i have the 10g wire from the starter on its own separate lug on the fender relay.



I stand corrected if you using the OBS 3 bolt starter the denso straight lug would work better. I just tried my 3 bolt and I can not get the 90* ment for the OEM starter on it hits the back of the motor and cant make the turn to land on the lug.

The OEM 90* lug works perfect on the 2 bolt 2003 7.3 starter.