Shocks for Excursion
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Shocks for Excursion
Hi All,
Im needing to replace the shocks on my truck. 2005 Excursion Limited 2WD, not lifted. I was reading on these forums about alot of folks running Bilstein 5100s. Anyone purchased these for 2WD Excursions ? Im having a hard time finding the proper shock for a non lifted truck. Are the 5100s specific to lifted trucks ?
Also, if you have any recommendations for a different shock, please share
Thanks in advance!!
Im needing to replace the shocks on my truck. 2005 Excursion Limited 2WD, not lifted. I was reading on these forums about alot of folks running Bilstein 5100s. Anyone purchased these for 2WD Excursions ? Im having a hard time finding the proper shock for a non lifted truck. Are the 5100s specific to lifted trucks ?
Also, if you have any recommendations for a different shock, please share
Thanks in advance!!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 182
KYB Monomax all the way. I had a set go 100K (4WD). rockauto probably has them in stock. They are by far the best bang for the buck. I have Bilsteins on now, and don't dislike them except for the price. They ride pretty well too.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 947
Likes: 144
From: Columbus Ohio
2wd and 4wd have a different mounting type on the top as far as I know?
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 284
Likes: 1
If you use stock Super Duty springs for a 2" lift on an Ex you will want stock Super Duty shocks as they are the correct length for that application.
In the back you will need to do some measurements and research on shock length to determine if you can get by with an Ex shock or if you need to go to a truck shock. If you go to a truck shock you will need to use the "T" bar from you old shock or purchase a new one as the truck shocks have an open eye at the top.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,885
Likes: 26
From: Chino, California
I used Bilstein B6 4600 series on my 2WD stock height.
The part numbers are:
24-185448 fronts
24-185455 rears
The real pain in butt are the front shocks. You need an Allen/hex key to hold the middle stem while tightening the top nut. The nut was a nylon locking nut, IIRC, so you can't just spin the nut down until it makes contact. You have to keep turning it with a wrench while holding that hex key. It's best to have a pivoting ratchet box end wrench or you'll be saying every 4 letter curse word at least 10x.
The rear ones are pretty easy.
The part numbers are:
24-185448 fronts
24-185455 rears
The real pain in butt are the front shocks. You need an Allen/hex key to hold the middle stem while tightening the top nut. The nut was a nylon locking nut, IIRC, so you can't just spin the nut down until it makes contact. You have to keep turning it with a wrench while holding that hex key. It's best to have a pivoting ratchet box end wrench or you'll be saying every 4 letter curse word at least 10x.
The rear ones are pretty easy.
Cross-Country
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 77
Likes: 10
From: South Central Pennsylvana
I'm going to give the Monomax a try in my 2000 7.3L Ex. I have tried the Bilsteins and the Ranchos and while they rode nice, they didn't last very long (12-18 moths of highway driving). I was expecting better given how much they cost.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 892
Likes: 159
From: Gainesville
Bilstein 4600s are valved the same as the 5100s. Only difference is the 5100s are longer.
I have a 2” lift in the rear, so I used the 4x4 4600s because the mounting points are the same on both and are 1” longer.
Front is 1 1/2” taller, so I used the 2WD 4600s. (Works out great).
I tried the 5100s up front, but they were too long. The front mounting points are different between the 2WD and the 4x4.
I have a 2” lift in the rear, so I used the 4x4 4600s because the mounting points are the same on both and are 1” longer.
Front is 1 1/2” taller, so I used the 2WD 4600s. (Works out great).
I tried the 5100s up front, but they were too long. The front mounting points are different between the 2WD and the 4x4.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,033
Likes: 534
From: Bottom Of Pikes Peak
I don't have an ex...well I do have 2 but they are different...But I had good luck with the 5100's i think they were, aluminum bodied, I now use fox remote res up front. I got good life o the bilsteins before I traded them with a buddy to go back to stock
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 171
From: SoCal
I used Bilstein B6 4600 series on my 2WD stock height.
The part numbers are:
24-185448 fronts
24-185455 rears
The real pain in butt are the front shocks. You need an Allen/hex key to hold the middle stem while tightening the top nut. The nut was a nylon locking nut, IIRC, so you can't just spin the nut down until it makes contact. You have to keep turning it with a wrench while holding that hex key. It's best to have a pivoting ratchet box end wrench or you'll be saying every 4 letter curse word at least 10x.
The rear ones are pretty easy.
The part numbers are:
24-185448 fronts
24-185455 rears
The real pain in butt are the front shocks. You need an Allen/hex key to hold the middle stem while tightening the top nut. The nut was a nylon locking nut, IIRC, so you can't just spin the nut down until it makes contact. You have to keep turning it with a wrench while holding that hex key. It's best to have a pivoting ratchet box end wrench or you'll be saying every 4 letter curse word at least 10x.
The rear ones are pretty easy.
They provide a firm yet soft ride.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 171
From: SoCal
I used Bilstein B6 4600 series on my 2WD stock height.
The part numbers are:
24-185448 fronts
24-185455 rears
The real pain in butt are the front shocks. You need an Allen/hex key to hold the middle stem while tightening the top nut. The nut was a nylon locking nut, IIRC, so you can't just spin the nut down until it makes contact. You have to keep turning it with a wrench while holding that hex key. It's best to have a pivoting ratchet box end wrench or you'll be saying every 4 letter curse word at least 10x.
The rear ones are pretty easy.
The part numbers are:
24-185448 fronts
24-185455 rears
The real pain in butt are the front shocks. You need an Allen/hex key to hold the middle stem while tightening the top nut. The nut was a nylon locking nut, IIRC, so you can't just spin the nut down until it makes contact. You have to keep turning it with a wrench while holding that hex key. It's best to have a pivoting ratchet box end wrench or you'll be saying every 4 letter curse word at least 10x.
The rear ones are pretty easy.
The have a great ride and handling. Initially they will feel a little stiff but after a few hundred miles they settle right in nicely.
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