When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I got ahold of some bad fuel. I tried to run it out but it's pretty bad. I drained the rear tank, put 8 gallons of fresh fuel in it and about 8 oz of Diesel Kleen. I changed the fuel filter.
It starts good and runs smooth. When I accelerate at all, it's as if I shut off about 4 cylinders. It doesn't make any difference if I floor it. It just gradually increases. It has absolutely no power. Takes forever to get up to cruising speed. Any additional suggestions or do I just run out the 8 gallons and hope the Diesel Kleen does it's job?
Thanks Forum brothers
it won't hurt to double up on Diesel Kleen...I would watch the filter and drain it often if water is in the fuel.
BTW DFS Plus is a better additive for water problems than Diesel Kleen DK don't do much about water but adds lubricity components to help protect parts.
it's a real shame these trucks don't have a Fuel sump drain.
Personally I've never got bad fuel, and ever since I've bought my truck it's never had a water separator, it does now but I've still yet to hook it up.
I've also ran lots of very old fuel that I was given for free. Never had a problem with it either. Of course it was clean and water/algae free.
I've also never drained a fuel tank on older vehicles that have been sitting. I've started tons of diesel on whatever's in the tank. On gassers I bring a can of two of fresh gas and just pour it in and go.
When I try to start something that's been sitting I try not to waste any money on anything until I know it'll run first. I see lots of folks draining fuel tanks, changing oil and filters, I always wait...
it's a real shame these trucks don't have a Fuel sump drain.
is this something we can make? Any idea’s for engineering this?
Originally Posted by DarkOverCast
Personally I've never got bad fuel, and ever since I've bought my truck it's never had a water separator, it does now but I've still yet to hook it up.
I've also ran lots of very old fuel that I was given for free. Never had a problem with it either. Of course it was clean and water/algae free.
I've also never drained a fuel tank on older vehicles that have been sitting. I've started tons of diesel on whatever's in the tank. On gassers I bring a can of two of fresh gas and just pour it in and go.
When I try to start something that's been sitting I try not to waste any money on anything until I know it'll run first. I see lots of folks draining fuel tanks, changing oil and filters, I always wait...
thats good to hear...next time I get a truck with a transfer tank half full of diesel (like I did last year with an old
parts truck a friend brought me for use on his truck...). I’ll put it into some cans instead of giving it to my neighbor!-0. Pretty sure it was ag-fuel too. Lol. It’s a wonder the tank was empty in less than a week by the time I got back to the truck. Sure he burned it up in his Deere smiling.
there is a number of different valves you could use.....
Problem with this is being it would be at the lowest part of the tank in the "Fuel Sump area" under the shower head ......driving over brush could be problematic.
on Aircraft it is Mandatory that the fuel sumps are drained on every Post Flight Inspection ...what this does is makes sure there is no fuel contamination and that the valve don't leak.
on our trucks I would suggest a Flange and plug instead of a valve that could get knocked off or leak as I don't see anyone crawling under regular to inspect it.
Maybe something like this....
of course it requires tank removal and it could still be struck by a road hazard, they do make flush mounted valves but they are stupid expensive.
BUT in a case like what happened to Tom, it would be nice as you cannot siphon a tank dry.
it won't hurt to double up on Diesel Kleen...I would watch the filter and drain it often if water is in the fuel.
BTW DFS Plus is a better additive for water problems than Diesel Kleen DK don't do much about water but adds lubricity components to help protect parts.
I sent you a reply it it didn't appear so here it is again. Front tank runs better but still not great. I pulled fuel filter, drained and put transmission oil in it. Ran 30 seconds and will let sit couple days. I found Brown STICKY stuff in filter. Wonder if some got past the filter and gummed up the injector pump.
Sounds like you've got algae in the tank, if so Power Service (Diesel Clean) has no effect on algae. In order to check, pull your fuel filter, cut it open, inspect the pleats on the dirty side. If you have a kind of thin strawberry jam like substance on the pleats, that's algae. The cure is to siphon all the fuel you can out, buy an algaecide at a truck parts house, add some fresh diesel, then buy about 3 fuel filters and you should be good to go after a few filter changes.
On Edit: I first missed your post about the brown sticky stuff----sounds like algae for sure and like I said Diesel Kleen has no effect on algae. Unlike an above post, I've actually had some real life experience with the miserable stuff.
I sent you a reply it it didn't appear so here it is again. Front tank runs better but still not great. I pulled fuel filter, drained and put transmission oil in it. Ran 30 seconds and will let sit couple days. I found Brown STICKY stuff in filter. Wonder if some got past the filter and gummed up the injector pump.
May want to add a Biocide like Bio Kleen .... they call it Mother .......
combination of alge water and dirt
I am having some of the same issues described here currently with my truck and I am wondering if I ingested some crud into the fuel system when I filled the rear tank that hadn't been used for a few years and ran my truck off of that for a while, or maybe if there was some built up in the switching valve and when it was actuated that was freed up and went into the fuel lines. I'm hoping it's just this and I didn't get a bad set of injectors that were supposedly "new"
I would sure want something that was cheap and disposable until you can filter all that crap out.
These filters you recommend, can you open them to clean or do they have a replaceable cartridge? Is the can filter on the top of the engine the first one the fuel encounters (other than the pickup in the tank)?
I now know what the contaminate is. I run bio diesel and it appears to be a unwanted byproduct from a bad batch. These old 7.3s as we all know will burn just about anything if you can get it to the cylinder for fire. The goo didn't find it's way. My bad. Now I need to figure what will dissolve it. It seems to stick to everything
yeah you can open them and clean them they also use a cheap replacement element in them too.
the CAN you speak of is the Primary filter between the Lift Pump and the injection Pump.
you would want to install that Aftermarket filter after the Lift Pump and Before your CAN .. so that it catches most of the crud before it goes to the CAN and the IP
the hard line from the Lift Pump to the Original filter (CAN) would be removed and replaced with flexible 3/8" line and you would have to figure out where you wanted to mount the Racor so that it is easy to access.
a biocide is what you want to add to help break up the Goo .... I guess that is why they call it Mother F.......... it would sure make me cuss too.
the first one I linked to uses this Element https://www.racorstore.com/racor-201...30-micron.html
pretty sure you can find them cheaper than 7 bux.... your original filter is like a 10 Micron the racor is a Pre-Filter at 30 Micron .. you can find lower Micron elements for that racor but you really don't want to go lower than a 20 micron... the 30 is cheapest and your best bet.
yeah you can open them and clean them they also use a cheap replacement element in them too.
the CAN you speak of is the Primary filter between the Lift Pump and the injection Pump.
you would want to install that Aftermarket filter after the Lift Pump and Before your CAN .. so that it catches most of the crud before it goes to the CAN and the IP
the hard line from the Lift Pump to the Original filter (CAN) would be removed and replaced with flexible 3/8" line and you would have to figure out where you wanted to mount the Racor so that it is easy to access.
a biocide is what you want to add to help break up the Goo .... I guess that is why they call it Mother F.......... it would sure make me cuss too.
the first one I linked to uses this Element https://www.racorstore.com/racor-201...30-micron.html
pretty sure you can find them cheaper than 7 bux.... your original filter is like a 10 Micron the racor is a Pre-Filter at 30 Micron .. you can find lower Micron elements for that racor but you really don't want to go lower than a 20 micron... the 30 is cheapest and your best bet.
Does the replacement cartridge you suggest interchange with all tjese different filter housings (Racor2010PM-OR or 500 Turbine?) I need to make sure I get the rigjt element to fit the housing.
The market is flooded with the cheap chicom reproductions. $25 - $50 is inticing over the true racor
that is 2/3 more.
Im running the Racor 500FG and have it mounted by the driverside hinge. The filter elements come in
2, 10 and 30 micron
Here is a thread from last year about water seperators etc,,,
