Tank selector switch
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From: Sherwood Park, AB
Tank selector switch
Hi,
anyone ever have trouble with the tank selector switch< I have eliminated the switch on the dash as the problem. Hoses are fine. No blockages. I am thinking about just getting some brass fittings, a T and two shut offs . I have to at least be able to use the gas in the front tank being as I filled right up when it hit 60 cents / liter.
What does everyone think of this? Anyone know where to get a replacement or a good place to buy brass fittings in Edmonton AB?
anyone ever have trouble with the tank selector switch< I have eliminated the switch on the dash as the problem. Hoses are fine. No blockages. I am thinking about just getting some brass fittings, a T and two shut offs . I have to at least be able to use the gas in the front tank being as I filled right up when it hit 60 cents / liter.
What does everyone think of this? Anyone know where to get a replacement or a good place to buy brass fittings in Edmonton AB?
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From: Virginia
Ford had several different switching setups on their trucks through the years and for different engines. You did not say what year or what engine you have. Some have a 6 port valve, some a 3 port. Some have fuel pumps in the tanks, diesels don't but still use a 6 port valve. Then you have fuel injection with pumps in the tanks, and a fuel reservoir valve.
They make 3 port brass valves for boating, some people have drilled holes in their floorboard and put two in there to switch the fuel lines depending on what setup they had. But you still have to have a electrical switch also to switch the sending units.
They make 3 port brass valves for boating, some people have drilled holes in their floorboard and put two in there to switch the fuel lines depending on what setup they had. But you still have to have a electrical switch also to switch the sending units.
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From: Sherwood Park, AB
Hey thanks Franklin,
It's an 86 with a 300 inline six, it has the pump on the engine, runs off the cam, the selector has a line in from each tank and a line out, the simplest one, it looks like a 4 inch cylinder with only a two wire connector.
Dave
It's an 86 with a 300 inline six, it has the pump on the engine, runs off the cam, the selector has a line in from each tank and a line out, the simplest one, it looks like a 4 inch cylinder with only a two wire connector.
Dave
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From: Sherwood Park, AB
I pulled off the line in question from the selector, and put my thumb on the hole, no suction whatsoever, but it kept drawing from the rear tank. I did also check the fuse I suspect it just wont switch.
Probably it's shot, Can they be rebuilt maybe?
Probably it's shot, Can they be rebuilt maybe?
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From: Virginia
You just replace the simple switching valves. Not sure if the local stores still carry them. But first, like you mentioned, get a testlight and see if you have power down at the valve when the dash switch is moved back and forth.
If you need the truck running or need to get one of the tanks emptied out, you can take vise grips and pinch the line shut so gas won't go all over the place, and then take the line loose to the engine, and then splice the two lines together with clamps and a short piece of hard line to bypass the valve until you get it fixed.
Here's a link to a brass valve if you wanted to go that route. But you would still use your dash switch to switch the sending units.
If you need the truck running or need to get one of the tanks emptied out, you can take vise grips and pinch the line shut so gas won't go all over the place, and then take the line loose to the engine, and then splice the two lines together with clamps and a short piece of hard line to bypass the valve until you get it fixed.
Here's a link to a brass valve if you wanted to go that route. But you would still use your dash switch to switch the sending units.
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From: Sherwood Park, AB
Good thinking, Thanks, I'll get under there with the tst light, I suspect the valve is somehow shot. I can splice the lines, I might as well just take the selector off and see if I can somehow rebuild it.....
What do you think, I'm happy to make it a manual switch though.
What do you think, I'm happy to make it a manual switch though.
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From: Virginia
Here's one on ebay. You might be able to grab those numbers and do a google search. Or search more of the auto stores. I checked Autozone, they do not carry it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-FUEL-TA...-/171249453850
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-FUEL-TA...-/171249453850
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From: Sherwood Park, AB
We have one retail store open here right now, NAPA, everything else is closed ,I believe, At least the wrecker is still open , I might just drop in there tomorrow....
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From: Angier, NC
You have the supper simple valve.
It pulls from the rear tank normaly and when you flip the switch the valve then moves to pull from the front tank.
First thing you want to do is make sure you are getting power to the valve.
No power then even a new valve will not work.
Use a test lights on the wire to ground.
With the switch 1 way (rear I believe) no power.
Flip the switch (front tank) and you should get power.
If no power you will need to find out why, could the switch or fuse be bad?
If you have power on the wire just replace the valve with a new one.
I would not waste my time with a used one from the junk yard.
My 3 port valve was also bad, I had power to the valve but it would not switch tanks.
Got a new valve off Ebay, wire hook up may be different than what you have, but it now pulls from each tank.
Dave ----
It pulls from the rear tank normaly and when you flip the switch the valve then moves to pull from the front tank.
First thing you want to do is make sure you are getting power to the valve.
No power then even a new valve will not work.
Use a test lights on the wire to ground.
With the switch 1 way (rear I believe) no power.
Flip the switch (front tank) and you should get power.
If no power you will need to find out why, could the switch or fuse be bad?
If you have power on the wire just replace the valve with a new one.
I would not waste my time with a used one from the junk yard.
My 3 port valve was also bad, I had power to the valve but it would not switch tanks.
Got a new valve off Ebay, wire hook up may be different than what you have, but it now pulls from each tank.
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
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From: Sherwood Park, AB
Update,
Used to test light and I do in fact have power right at the clip on the valve, So I just decided to do a manual splice.
I got some brass valves and a barbed T fitting from Gregg Distributors.
That should do the trick , I'll throw that all on tomorrow.
Dave
Used to test light and I do in fact have power right at the clip on the valve, So I just decided to do a manual splice.
I got some brass valves and a barbed T fitting from Gregg Distributors.
That should do the trick , I'll throw that all on tomorrow.
Dave
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From: Angier, NC
You said your valve has 2 wires I wonder if someone has already changed it out at some point?
I say this because I thought the 3 port valves only used 1 wire (power) and the unit grounded thru the body on the valve.
That is how my 81 is but guess could be different for 86?
Dave ----
I say this because I thought the 3 port valves only used 1 wire (power) and the unit grounded thru the body on the valve.
That is how my 81 is but guess could be different for 86?
Dave ----
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