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90f150moneypit
that is a fairly good link once a person figures out exactly how to find what he/she is looking for. Have you had a chance to fix your rod yet? Still enjoying the cam swap given the bad rod? Later
90f150moneypit
Your gonna put a stroker 327 in your truck? Not trying to get personal just asking, why did you exclude the 351 more ci less money? just asking, later
f100guy
what kinda pistons are in your truck, cast or forged? As far as transmission rebuilds, You can get a rebuild kit anywere from $80 to $214 for a B&M kit that is basically everything they put in their trannies. e-mail this fellow and ask about either a dvd or vhs tape for rebuilding c6 transmissions specifically he takes it from start to finish. I am moving at snail speed but when I attempt my tranny rebuild this is the video I am getting, lot of folks on here claim its the best.
Here is the e-mail address and it runs like $35 or so
I just wanted something different. Plus I want everything new, and still be a stroker.
I thought of building a stock 302 but then started thinking stroker.
I didn't want a 347 because of the wrist pin in the oil ring groove problem. Plus I want to get a new block without needing to over bore it (this is the main reason for not going with the 351).
So, with a stock 4" bore, a 3.25" stroke crank and 5.4" rods will give me a 327 with a 9.5.1 compression (with the pistons I found), and a piston to deck clearance of about .016" with no machine work - perfect.
Everything including the block will be new;
302 block from Summit - very good price
Forged crank,rods and pistons.
Edelbrock truck EFI intake
Edelbrock Performer heads
MAF conversion
This combo, with cam to be determined but close to what I have now, should give me a good increase on power over stock. It will be a new motor that will last a long time.
thanks for all the replys, i think i ight get a rebuild kit for a 351 m out of my edelbrock magazine, i heard someone say somthing bout getting more horse power byputting 400 pistons in my 351 m instead of the 351m pistons. how would i do this?
badass truck
the 351m and 400m use the same block so if you want to upgrade to the 400 then when you order a complete crank kit ask for the 400 internals instead of the 351 just give the bore the machinist bored the block too and bam you have a 400, just double check with the machinist to make sure nothing was out of spec. Look into paw performance they have master rebuild kits at a fair price and then compare that to your local autoparts store price.
90f150moneypit
while I am on the subject of paw performacne they offer standard bore options on their blocks so maybe they could get one to you. I think they may be sleeved blocks, maybe, maybe not, if they are sleeved I have heard the sleeves are actually stronger. Just a thought, either way sounds like a good project is in the works. later
As jwtaylor said, the two blocks are the same. The only difference is the crank and pistons. The rods can be reused. So all you need is a new 400 crank and pistons.
f100guy
I would say you have a plan with the nitros then, just check double check and then recheck that your engine is dead on tune wise and you should be good. Let me know how it goes
thanks fellas. i think i'll get the rebuild kit , with just the gaskets and stuff. but then order a crank and pistobs for a 400 and sslap those in my 351m. that sound good. any ideas of wha size and what kind of pistons and crank. i want power from this motor , like everyone does i guess.haha
thanks
If you want the usual 350-400 hp the stock crank is fine you might opt for hypereutectic, keith black line of pistons are pretty good as well. Don't be misled though it all depends on your intent with the motor if your gonna be trying to break it constantly then go with the as menitoned pistons but if your gonna drive it daily and take care of the vehicle then good old cast will do the trick, they are a little stronger than people let on. I don't know what you mean by what size. Just let your machinist figure out your specs and then have him keep the compression to around 9.5-10:1 with your piston selection if your going naturally aspirated. I think you meant what size to bore the block, have the machinist bore the block as little as possible, you constantly hear I went 30 over or so on who cares, it doesn't give you enough hp to do it especially if you think in the future you might wanna rebuild it again then the less you take off now the better your chances of a rebuild again an remaining within reasonable bore specs. Just a thought and good luck once again
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