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agreed. ok to anti-seize the 60 degree lug seat also, but NOT the threads like said above!
NEVER, I mean NEVER, put anti seize on the lug seat. The friction between the two surfaces is what keeps the lugs tight, not the threads.
If your in the rust belt and the studs are getting rusty, a little dab on the threads is fine. If still new and shiny, just the hub is all I do.
Actually, the issue is applying anything to the threads impacts the torque values and allows you to over tighten the lugs, stretch threads, etc....add the heat/cool cycles and time and go to remove those lugs and something is going to break. The other issue is under torque and the bolts can backoff because there's less friction. Just keep those threads clean and dry :-) Rustbelt, I'd defer to the experts.
Its ok to decrease the friction between the lug nut and the wheel with anti-seize. Another example of this is the captive, free spinning washer on the stock lug nuts. The threads need to be unlubricated.
To the original question (from long ago...), that 0.2mm is the clearance needed to fit the wheel up, you can call that wheel "hub centric", and there are no hub rings you need or can have. In the auto world, most wheels and hubs do not bear the load in the bore, but they are size matched to help center the wheel before torqueing. The friction between the wheel face and hub face are what actually support the car.
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