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I am the third owner of a 67 F100 352 with 90,000 original miles, which I believe to be true. I bought the truck about a year and a half ago. Just getting it on the road this year and have slowly been checking things out. I am new to this and not a mechanic but fairly mechanically inclined and have been doing lots of reading as I proceed with tasks. I got my drivers license the year this truck was built and am looking forward to getting it running well. I will likely have lots of questions as I go and appreciate the vast knowledge and willingness of folks on this forum to help.
I have a question about the best location to connect a vacuum gauge. The truck has no power accessories so seems like the vacuum line from carb base to the distributor advance would be the logical place to connect. The three locations along this line would be at the port on the carb, the connection at the distributor advance or installing a tee at some point along the line. Or, should I go to a plugged port on the intake manifold?
Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I should connect? Thanks.
Yep, it has to be a constant source of vacuum or "always on". The carburetor distributor port won't work for that on a factory carb. Anything below the throttle butterflies will work such as a brake booster connection, or the intake manifold itself. I want to say there is usually a 3/8" NPT, get a barbed connection from NAPA and Bob's Yer Uncle.
Thanks to you both. I was looking at the right hand side of the carb and the port connection used by the distributor advance line is at the base of the carb and seems to be below the throttle shaft so I thought it was manifold vacuum. Maybe internally it opens above the throttle butterflies?
Yeah, can't always go by the external location of the port. What kind of carburetor is it?
Aftermarket carburetors like Holley have a full time manifold port in addition to the "timed" distributor port, but an OEM carburetor like the Autolite or Motorcraft 2100 series only has the distributor vacuum advance connection. There won't be any vacuum signal there at factory idle speed, so it can't be used to connect a vacuum gauge for engine diagnostics and tuning. It's a little bit of pita to setup but well worth it if you want to get a sharp tune.
It is an Autolite 2100 with tag numbers that suggest it may even be original. With no accessories to tap into I will go straight to the manifold. Thanks.
It is below freezing up here today and the truck is under its winter cover still. Possible snow forecast for tonight.
Give a feller a break, eh? I did find a pic though.
I was actually trying to find the right place to connect my vacuum gauge on my 360 with a stock carb. Glad I stumbled on this thread because I had been trying to use the port on the passenger side where the vacuum advance connects to. I was getting little to no readings unless I had the throttle open which really threw me for a loop.
X2 for me too. I bought the amazon Auto Meter vacuum gauge, underdash mount, haven’t put it in but this thread helps. Looks like a good company with manufacturing operations in Illinois. Wanting to use it for tuning and optimization.
X2 for me too. I bought the amazon Auto Meter vacuum gauge, underdash mount, haven’t put it in but this thread helps. Looks like a good company with manufacturing operations in Illinois. Wanting to use it for tuning and optimization.
Can you guys show pix of your vacuum gauges?
Sam
Mine is just a standard test gauge, not for permanent mounting in the truck.
The in-dash vacuum gauges are very useful for keeping an eye on things generally but for engine diagnostics and tuning the mechanic style gauge with the large face is way more accurate or precise in needle movements.
X2 for me too. I bought the amazon Auto Meter vacuum gauge, underdash mount, haven’t put it in but this thread helps. Looks like a good company with manufacturing operations in Illinois. Wanting to use it for tuning and optimization.
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