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no.you need to troubleshoot it. is the pedal going down when stepped on? is it moving the arm going into the bellhousing?
is the linkage hooked up? is it properly adjusted?
replacing the clutch will not do any good if parts are missing or not working properly.
no.you need to troubleshoot it. is the pedal going down when stepped on? is it moving the arm going into the bellhousing?
is the linkage hooked up? is it properly adjusted?
replacing the clutch will not do any good if parts are missing or not working properly.
Just wanted to jump in here and say that the shifter most definitely DOES move up and down in addition to forward and backward. You lift up toward the ceiling and pull toward you to get into first gear. lift up toward the ceiling and push toward the windshield to get into reverse. Down toward the floor and forward toward the windshield is second gear, then pull it straight back from second toward you to get into third gear. If the shifter didn't move up and down, you couldn't differentiate between first/reverse and second/third. Have you driven a manual "three on the tree" before? I drive mine just about every day. Now if you have an automatic, you would be correct, the shifter would have no need to move up and down.
Just wanted to jump in here and say that the shifter most definitely DOES move up and down in addition to forward and backward. You lift up toward the ceiling and pull toward you to get into first gear. lift up toward the ceiling and push toward the windshield to get into reverse. Down toward the floor and forward toward the windshield is second gear, then pull it straight back from second toward you to get into third gear. If the shifter didn't move up and down, you couldn't differentiate between first/reverse and second/third. Have you driven a manual "three on the tree" before? I drive mine just about every day. Now if you have an automatic, you would be correct, the shifter would have no need to move up and down.
Do you happen to know how to time these things, just bought a new distributor and tried watching some videos but seems very complicated
You have to find TDC on the number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Then find the number 1 plug fitting on the distributor. Make sure the rotor is pointed at that fitting. When you put the distributor in, it will turn the rotor a little due to the cut of the gears. Compensate for that when you put the distributor in.
Do you have a timing light?
Can you see the front of the crankshaft? Look for a pointer and some kind of mark. The mark should be near the pointer when the distributor is pointing at cylinder number one. Once you are close, you get it started and slowly move the distributor until the mark is at the pointer.
Of course, you have to find the factory ****, which is probably 6 or 8 degress BTDC, and make sure the mark is at that point also.
If you don't have a timing light or there are no marks, no pointer--it will be pretty tough to get the right timing. You'll have to get things lined up the best you can, and adjust it slowly at idle. Go for the best idle, then back it off a little.
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