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What's up everybody. I have a question about my brakes on my 2007 F250 6.0. I did a complete brake job last fall. Rotors/pads. Everything was fine and when I was hunting, I got stuck in the mud. Driving home a few hours later I noticed the weird sound. It sounds like verrump, verrump and when I hit my brakes, my pedal vibrates and pulls the truck to the left. It only does this once and a while. It quit but started up again. What could it possible be? When it sounds normal, everything is fine
There could simply be mud stuck to one of the ABS wheel sensors interfering with it's signal, which in turn is making the ABS system think the wheel is locking up
Thanks for the reply. Dont think I have ABS as in the snow my brakes always lock up. I am thinking the sound is coming from the brake booster as it's on the drivers side of the truck. But I wanted to see what everybody else thought. I did a power steering fluid flush yesterday. It wouldnt hurt and might help.
Thanks for the reply. Dont think I have ABS as in the snow my brakes always lock up. I am thinking the sound is coming from the brake booster as it's on the drivers side of the truck. But I wanted to see what everybody else thought. I did a power steering fluid flush yesterday. It wouldnt hurt and might help.
Thanks for the info. How come my breaks lock up when I drive in the snow? I noticed there is a place in the dash for an abs light but I have never seen it come on. Could there be another issue. I have had this truck since 2012 and this has never happened before
Thanks. I found my abs module. My light never comes on but the sound has to be coming from the abs pump. Which fuse needs to be pulled to disable it to see if it's the pump?
As stated ABS is standard on your truck, it’s not the ABS unit, it’s a sensor giving a false signal telling the ABS controller you have a skidding wheel. If you pull left, chances are the right wheel sensor is at fault. Someone who has the instrumentation to watch the sensor output can confirm.
On low friction surfaces the ABS tries to control a wheel from locking, to maintain directional control, but there is reduced performance due to the time that a wheel is being released, and how decreased it is dependent on how poor the surface is. Testing on glare ice can increase the stopping distance to what seems like infinity, it doesn’t throw out an anchor. With pickup trucks having such a low weight over the rear tires, you can have braking distance easy exceed twice the normal distance since modern rear disc brakes can contribute close to 50% of braking, the goal of any brake engineer. At low speeds, the ABS function will drop out totally as the tone ring resolution is too low for reliable data.
Thank you for the heads up. Is there anyway to test the sensors. My light doesn't turn on so there isnt a way I could use a code reader. I am used to having a vehicle without abs. Is there a way to turn the system off without affecting my speedometer
I'm used to testing them with the Ford IDS software and system. AutoEnginuity will do it too, but it's expensive as are some of the other pro tools like what Snap-On sells.
I believe it can be done with Forscan for iPhones and any laptop but have never used those for it. If you are getting a bad signal from the sensor it's with the cable got damaged or the hub got contaminated internally.
There are several fuses for the ABS controller and unit itself, you would have to hunt for which one to disable, it may be the high amp fuse. But you are better off fixing the issue then bypassing it.
Again thanks for the reply. My guess it might be a damaged wire. It all started when I got high centered in the mud. In your opinion, what are the odds its a broken wire or sensor. Like I said in an earlier post, it is very intermittent. I had thought it had quit until I went through some water and mud. I have no indicator light that is lighting up, I didn't even know I had abs. I appreciate all of your input. It makes sense that it was a pump.
I would inspect the wire coming from the hub to its connection by the wheel well. Cleaning of the connection might be in order. The wires are shielded so they are rather tough, but we had had issues a few times over 25 years. The sensor itself tends to get rusted in place in the hub and can be an issue getting out. What comes out with the sensor can be telling.
So after reading your response yesterday, I went home and cleaned the area around the sensor. It was still caked with mud. I then pulled the connection and tested the continuity at the connection. I have some resistance at the sensor but it still registers. There was alot of dirt and debris at the connection. Hopefully the cleaning will help out some. I really appreciate all your responses. I have been racking my brain for months over this issue.
A resistance test just tells if there is conductivity in the sensor circuit, you need an oscilloscope function of test equipment that a shop you have to understand the failure.
A fault in the pattern (red) would cause the ABS controller to fire off the ABS unit.
A skidding wheel actively being addressed by the ABS might look like this.
The output is a function of speed.
Without proper equipment and training, your only position is being a parts thrower, sensor, new hub......
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You made it seems like this was an issue that just happened.
