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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

292 Y Block Valves

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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 05:39 PM
  #1  
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292 Y Block Valves

I hate to post this but- I am restoring my 1959 4X4. I had the engine overhauled by a reputable shop but thought i would save a buck and did not have the valves done. The heads had only about 400 miles and had been rebuilt by Ford. Now I am at the point of needing to install the heads. I disassembled the valves one at a time. Springs were still painted blue. Cleaned the valves and reinstalled. Thought I would do a vacuum test on each valve. Several wont hold vacuum although the seating surfaces are bright and clean. I've been polishing an intake valve with fine compound. Still no vacuum hold. I tried heavy oil on the stem. Still nothing. I put some clean grease on the valve seat and the vacuum holds. Am I wasting my time are do need a better technique to polish the valve and seat? What should I be trying to accomplish, complete air tight seal? I tried the water trick. Filled the combustion chamber and applied air. No bubbles. Seems tight but wont hold vacuum.

"59 ready for reassembly at long last.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 06:18 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by SeaCarr
I hate to post this but- I am restoring my 1959 4X4. I had the engine overhauled by a reputable shop but thought i would save a buck and did not have the valves done. The heads had only about 400 miles and had been rebuilt by Ford. Now I am at the point of needing to install the heads. I disassembled the valves one at a time. Springs were still painted blue. Cleaned the valves and reinstalled. Thought I would do a vacuum test on each valve. Several wont hold vacuum although the seating surfaces are bright and clean. I've been polishing an intake valve with fine compound. Still no vacuum hold. I tried heavy oil on the stem. Still nothing. I put some clean grease on the valve seat and the vacuum holds. Am I wasting my time are do need a better technique to polish the valve and seat? What should I be trying to accomplish, complete air tight seal? I tried the water trick. Filled the combustion chamber and applied air. No bubbles. Seems tight but wont hold vacuum.

"59 ready for reassembly at long last.
If heads were factory rebuilt why take them apart? Sounds like a case of if it ain't broke to me.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 07:10 PM
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Just because the heads were done at ford doesn't mean a quality job, take them to a good machine shop and have the valves ground.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2020 | 11:58 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by SeaCarr
I hate to post this but- I am restoring my 1959 4X4. I had the engine overhauled by a reputable shop but thought i would save a buck and did not have the valves done.

The heads had only about 400 miles and had been rebuilt by Ford.
Ford Motor Co. did not rebuild heads or anything else. They were rebuilt by authorized Ford rebuilders, private companies that FoMoCo contracted with.

The quality of workmanship could be wanting.

Here in LA LA Land, it was a crap shoot if the authorized Genuine Parts Distributor (aka Tumador Engine) rebuilt FT engines that Ford dealers installed would be any good or not.

For many years, Fred Jones was the authorized rebuilder for OK & TX, his shop was the former Ford assembly plant in OKC .. Jones was also a long time Ford and L/M dealer.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2020 | 01:08 AM
  #5  
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Before you go and get the valves done try lapping them in. You need something like a 280 grit valve lapping/grinding compound the polishing compound you are using won;t cut it. After lapping they should hold a vacuum If that does not fix it then take the heads in for valve grinding.
 
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