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Torque Pro gives me no fault codes whereas Forscan Demo gives me all sorts of error codes. Both were run on an Android tablet
Does anyone have any thoughts?
I’m thinking about purchasing a version of Forscan with more features but don’t know if I should go with the Android version or the Windows version. I do have an old ELM327 with a wired usb connection so I’m hoping that will work if I decide to go with the Windows version.
In my experience Torque Pro (TP) is notorious for not working right whenever it feels like it and definitely unreliable for reading codes stored in the PCM. Forscan as well as a few other programs are much more helpful in reading codes and troubleshooting, as you have realized. TP is great for rolling down the road to see some gauges and logging data to chart it with the PID Charting Tool created by a fellow FTE'r.
If you are wanting to troubleshoot the B1302 and B1352 codes, I can try and pull some instructions out of the Ford Service Manuals. I have to warn you though, I am not good at navigating them yet and it might take a bit of time.
Normally people do not perform a compression test unless they are seeing blow by or suspect a somewhat serious problem.
Are you seeing problems with the truck in regards to how it runs or are you simply shoring things up in order to keep the truck running in as good a shape as possible?
Normally people do not perform a compression test unless they are seeing blow by or suspect a somewhat serious problem.
Are you seeing problems with the truck in regards to how it runs or are you simply shoring things up in order to keep the truck running in as good a shape as possible?
I do see whitish smoke at the oil fill but I'm not going to tear the engine out. That said, I would like to know which cylinder(s) is/are causing it.
My big picture issue is very hard starts. I've got brand new batteries, battery cables, and a strong starter. Glow plugs shouldn't be an issue in Southern California. I had heard that the shim kits might help. Since I was going to remove the valve covers, I plan to do a compression test, replace the glow plugs, and insert the shims. I have a set of injector o-rings but I'm on the fence about pulling the injectors as I don't have any contamination in my coolant reservoir and am not burning oil/seeing increased oil levels (oil/fuel cross contamination).
I still am clueless on the Manifold Intake Air Heater Circuit Low message.
Mine gets the B1352 code because I defeated the annoying chime when the door is open and key in the ignition. If you have no chime with key in and door open, a PO prolly made the same change. To check open the steering column and see if the wire to the key cylinder has been disconnected.
Not sure what the B1302 is.
If the harder starting coincided with cold temps you can try synthetic oil. That helps tired injectors fire off in cold weather. And if that works I'd expect shimming the injectors would also help. Given clean coolant and no oil on the fuel filter it appears the injector o rings are fine, I'd leave them alone. But I'm lazy.
I bought and installed an AIH code eliminator from RiffRaff. Is this the code I’m getting? Do the code eliminators go bad?
Also, I use synthetic oil.
The key in ignition sensor/wire was broken when the truck was stolen so I guess that explains one code (1352).
I’m not sure what the auxiliary sensor is or where it resides on the truck. Could that be a bad relay in the dog house next to the under hood fuse box?
B1302 Seems to have something to do with the power windows?
Interesting - mine is an XL with manual windows and locks so I wouldn’t have expected the truck to have that relay. I guess I’ll have to figure out where that relay is physically located and inspect it.
Is there a trick to removing the oil dipstick bracket bolt? I am afraid if I torque on the bolt it will twist the dipstick connection going into the pan. Strictly Diesel seems to sell a fix ( https://norcaldieselperformance.com/...iABEgKE1PD_BwE ) but at $300 plus tax and shipping that’s an expensive mistake.
What I have done in the past is soak the top nut wit penetrating fluid, then brace the bracket with anything you want. I have used a large screwdriver to an adjustable wrench. The use a 3/8 socket wrench with an extension and deep socket to try and turn it off while bracing the bracket to keep it from twisting or moving.
On a friend's truck, I ended up using a cordless Ryobi impact gun to break the nut loose while he held the bracket in place.
It has a bit of movement allowed in it, just not a lot...
Is there a trick to removing the oil dipstick bracket bolt? I am afraid if I torque on the bolt it will twist the dipstick connection going into the pan. Strictly Diesel seems to sell a fix ( https://norcaldieselperformance.com/...iABEgKE1PD_BwE ) but at $300 plus tax and shipping that’s an expensive mistake.
This is the fitting that goes into the side of the oil pan. The factory version has a habit of loosening the nut and/or squishing the o-ring on the inside of the pan such that oil starts leaking out. There are cheaper options than this. The tube you are trying to loosen the nut for is separate.
Originally Posted by djed
Here’s what I’m dealing with
Like Sous said, brace the bracket so it doesn't twist and then get an impact on it. Alternatively, grind a custom slim wrench (13mm if memory serves) to hold the hex underneath then get an impact on the nut above. Be sure to apply anti-seize to the bracket and nut when reinstalling to prevent future issues.
My valve covers have never been off (at least since 2012) although I was planning on running a compression test as time allows.
I’d now welcome feedback on next steps.
i just fixed the B1305 B1352 on mine, my drivers door lock circuit was not working correctly , I took it apart and cleaned it Lubed it up and put it all back together, Now my radio turns off when i open the drivers door
Valve covers off. Sous’ suggestion to brace the dipstick bracket and use an impact wrench did the trick.
back to the buzz test, does ForScan test in firing order such that the two soft buzz sounds at the end were 6 & 8 or does the test run in sequential order (1, 2, 3, ...)?
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
