Hello all.. new to the forum. I picked up a '64 F100 a few weeks ago from a friend and have been trying to get some thing smoothed out with it. My friend, the previous owner, put a lot of work/ mods into the truck most of which are right in line with my tastes so I've just been fine tuning and tweaking some things for now. I will add all the specifics into my signature on here.. couldn't figure out how to yet.


Ok so, when I got the truck there was no ignition lock cylinder.. it had just been started with a flathead screwdriver etc for quite some time. I purchased a door and ignition lock cylinder set (among other things) from DC and ended up discovering the ignition switch internals had been scarred up enough the lock cylinder didn't want to seat properly. I would also like to mention it was not the original ignition switch. So, fast forward.. I ordered a replacement ignition switch, BWD #CS52 which was identical to the switch that was in it. Replaced it and installed the lock cylinder.. everything fit correctly and installed smoothly.

But the odd thing is about the lock cylinder installation (as I'm sure many of you are familiar with) After using a screwdriver to move the ignition switch one position CC to ACC position you then depress the lock cylinder pinhole to turn the key 1/4 turn CC to line up with ACC mode and seat the cylinder, after seating and turning back CW for "installed normal use" to OFF my lock cylinder is designed to not return CC enough to enter the ACC mode without depressing the pinhole. The cylinder won't allow me to go any further to the left/ CC than the OFF position without depressing the pinhole which then will let it go to ACC mode and can be removed/ uninstalled at this point.

I've read and read and watched videos about the cylinder installation and as far as I can tell it may just be an incompatibility issue with the ignition switch and lock cylinder? But I'm just not sure what to make of it.

ADD: I guess I should also mention the main reason I'm asking about this is because with this switch/ cylinder behaving this way the truck tries to start when the key is moved to the ON position and continues to try and start while it is running.. my only option is to then move the key to the OFF position which shuts it off as it should.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Something isn't right. In all my years restoring Mustangs and trucks, I've never had this issue. YOu never want to push the pin, unless you are removing the entire tumbler assembly. So yes, it seems something is off. It should turn far enough CC to get to the accessory function. If it does not, something isn't allowing it to go that far. You are removed the assembly again and reinstalled? If you can't see why it won't turn back far enough, one of the pieces needs to be replaced and hopefully the interference isn't there.

 

Yes, I've installed and removed it several times.. the slotted gap of the ignition switches female-like portion does not move CC more than the 11-O'clock position under correct operation in ACC mode. According to all my research and the 2 switches I have dealt with personally this is where it should stop normally. This is how it should be positioned, in the ACC (11-o'clock) position to accept the pinhole pushed and 1/4 CC twisted lock cylinder according to all information I've came across. After seating it in this position you are to turn the lock cylinder CW to seat/ set/ install the cylinder for normal operation and it wont turn further CC without the pinhole depressed, only in a CW direction.

In theory, to me anyway, it somewhat makes sense because the lock cylinder is designed to stop rotation CC at a certain point.. the point in which the pinhole has to be depressed to be rotated past normal operation to be installed while the ignition switch is in the ACC position. I guess the ignition switch ACC positioning is what isn't making sense.

Every post/ video says to put the switch in the ACC position before installing lock cylinder and we all know that the pinhole has to be used to allow it to reach that point. I just can't make sense of it. Thanks

 

You're not understanding what I am saying. Yes it stops at about the 11 Oclock position. You then totally forget about the pin, never to be used again That is what it should do once the tumbler assembly is inserted. But at the 11 Oclock position you should have accessories. If you do not, something is wrong.

 

I have had problems in the past with sticky cylinders; the remedy for me was to source both the cylinder and the switch from the same manufacturer. Good luck.

 

Haha, yeah I do truly understand what you're saying.. I get that the pinhole is not used after the installation. I guess I'm just saying it makes sense the cylinder wouldn't naturally return to that point since the pinhole has to be depressed for it to enable it to reach that point in the first place. I'm going to keep trying with another ignition switch tomorrow. I appreciate the input!

 

Been several years since I had to deal w/ the ignition switch when I purchased the 65 with the 390 not sure how PO installed the switch but on a number of occasions, the key would drop to the floor while driving.

I ended up replacing the entire ignition switch, found the switch was not installed properly and as a result the cam and housing were damaged.

There is a notch in the dash and a 'pigtail' (?) on the bell-shaped spacer that it sets in to and prevents the entire switch from rotating. I found it a challenge keeping the spring, bell shape spacer, in position while I installed the switch from the back while installing the bezel from the front thus locking the ignition switch in place and then installed the cylinder.

Installing the cylinder I had to orient the cam on the end of the cylinder to the cam housing/boss in the switch, it can only go in 1 way, basically, place the cylinder in the same position as when it was removed by pressing down the ball and rotate the cylinder to what would be the ACC position before inserting it into the switch. It sounds like you are aware there is a concentric cam at the end of the key assembly and the object is to orient the cam cylinder to match the cam boss in the switch.

Sorry for the poor attempt as describing but if U check both the cylinder and the switch it may make sense?? Good luck