Engine swap: Coyote, LS or ???
I don't want a diesel, and I could give up a little of the power I've got with my 460. But I want significantly better mileage. I'm hoping / dreaming that I can get close to 20 mpg on a 60 mph highway trip.
I had a 5.4L in an '08 F-250 CCSB. That got around 18 mpg on the highway, so it's in the range. But I hated driving it with the high rpm needed to get any power. So the mod motors are out of my consideration.
A friend had about a 2017 F-150 with the Coyote 5.0L. He got near 25 mpg on the highway if he wasn't playing with it, so that is definitely in the running. And from what I've gathered it makes enough power lower in the revs that I wouldn't hate it. But I want a 5 spd manual trans. Are there any choices for 4WD truck manual 5 speeds for a Coyote? And what is the support for an install like that? I'm sure the ECM wouldn't be happy without the automatic trans that the F-150 would come with and I don't want to have to run a 2017 instrument panel. Are there resources for thinning out the wiring harness and getting an ECM to run it in an older truck with a manual trans? And how expensive would that swap be?
That brings up a Ch*vy LS, probably a 5.3L or possibly a 6.0L. LS motors are plentiful and cheap (compared to a Coyote), and they have plenty of aftermarket support for sticking in an older vehicle with a manual trans. A couple friends have them and they've been happy with the power curve (better low end than the Ford mod motors). I'm not sure about the gas mileage with these, I've heard pretty good, but I've also heard more mid-teens. I know it's not a Ford, but I'm OK with crossing brands if there's enough reason to.
I've also thought a little about trying to build a 351W to be more efficient. Better heads and things like that which improve power are actually improving the efficiency, so if you don't use the power you get you can actually use less gas. I probably wouldn't do better than about 15 mpg like this though, and that doesn't really meet my goals (although it might not be worse mileage than an LS, and has the advantage of being Ford).
Any thoughts on any of these? Or are there any other options I should be considering?
Now that that bit of blasphemy is out of the way, the coyote (is a mod motor, isn't it?) would be great & you could do it reasonable if you shopped I believe.
I figure you would be the perfect person to do a 5.8/aluminum heads/stroker kit & Stinger. Hell, drop a turbo on it.
Good luck, watching with interest.
My '95 F150, 302/3.31 gears/auto got 18+ on the highway if you stayed at 65 mph and out of the big hills. My current '95 has 3.08 gears and doesn't go as well on mileage because it downshifts(unlock converter) on the highway all the time on long grades. It lugs too much. I thought it would be better, but lesson learned....that 302 needs a bit of RPM to carry the truck at highway speeds.
I had a brand new '96 F350 SC/DRW 460/auto/4.10. I put a Vortech supercharger on it. "IF" you didn't plan on pulling heavy loads, putting some faster gears in your truck and adding some boost (mine had 5#)would likely help it get 15+ mpg. Hey, that's a 50% increase. Mine only got 10 mpg no matter what I did, but I was into the throttle all the time back then. Gas was under a $1/gal! I did use it to pull my 40ft Haulmark race trailer.(14K lbs) The truck also ran 15.8 in the 1/4 mile even with a very mushy shifting E4OD.
And yeah, I get that a 3/4 ton crew cab with 23 year old aerodynamics won't get the same mileage as a 1/2 ton truck with new aero design. But I'm talking steady-state highway driving, not stop-and-go, so the weight isn't as much of a penalty as it might seem. And I'm talking 60 mph. not 80, so the aero isn't quite as big either. I'm still not going to get the same mileage, but I don't think it's going to be 40% worse either (take 10 mpg away from 25 mpg).
And as far as a newer trans helping mileage a lot, I don't think that will make much difference, especially in highway driving, over a 20+ year old 5 speed manual.
The Coyote might be classified as a mod motor. But from what I've heard (which I'll only trust so far) its power curve is NOTHING like the 5.4L V8 or the 6.8L V10s that I've driven. Those are the engines I want to stay away from. If the Coyote can hold overdrive with 3.55 gears at 70 mph on level ground in a headwind it beats the mod motors I've driven.
The 351 with good heads certainly intrigues me. That's something I've thought of for a while. I know a stroker is good for torque. What's it do for mileage (if you keep your foot out of it)?
Forced induction isn't really on my radar. i know you can get a nice flat torque curve that way which is great for driveability and power. But it's a complication that I don't really want to buy into.
And that word, "complication", probably applies to a Coyote swap as well. Either the built 351 (which would go in like it belongs there) or an LS (which has tons of people putting them everywhere) would be a lot simpler.
Anyway, I'd still appreciate hearing peoples thoughts.
A vortech supercharger isn't complicated. I put mine system on in one weekend. The hardest deal at the time was getting the passenger valve cover off to install the return line fitting in the front. The air pump line was in the way and that took most of the day to get apart, cover off, drilled/tapped and reinstalled. The rest was simple bolt on stuff. Since it runs off engine oil, it worked just fine for the couple years of daily driving/towing I used it on before trading it in on a new '99 V10 F350. I kept my stock exhaust manifolds, cats and installed a big turbo muffler. Had a great rumble. I wanted to upgrade things, but a new truck came in the picture so I left it alone.
I agree, the new 10 spd transmissions aren't going to make much difference in mileage.
How about this. Find a Gear Vendors OD? You could bolt that in and gain a nice drop in highway RPM which would help with mileage. You need to find the sweet spot in the RPM range that the 460 works the best. Maybe time to install a vacuum gauge and do some monitoring? See how fast it goes and how much throttle it takes to keep speed.
Have you done any tweaks to your 460? I cut the restrictor(noise suppressor) out of the inlet pipes, that plastic coupler in the middle between TB and air box. I also upped timing to 10* instead of 6*. That really woke it up before installing the supercharger.
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LS gets used a lot for GM’s newer engines, just in case you didn’t know, thought I’d pass it on in case you’re looking around or thinking about using one.
LS engines. There are several versions - these are the 2 most typical when people are talking about them - there are as many versions of the LS at this point as there were versions of the original small block Chevy engines. Different displacements, heads, etc etc. There is a whole series of L engines.
LS1 5.7 litre / 350 cu in. Aluminum block and aluminum heads. Built for performance.
LS2 6.0 litre / 364 cu in. Aluminum block Aluminum heads - built and tuned for performance. Corvette etc.
The other L series are completely different from the LS series.
LM 5.3 litre / 323 cu in. Your typical half ton, Tahoe, Yukon engine.
LQ4 6.0 / 364 cu in. Cast iron block aluminum heads. Truck engine. Build for lower end tq and working. Tough engine. Block and heads are different from LS. Lower flowing. Same as the older 350’s etc with different heads. Same displacement as LS.
There is an LQ9. Different pistons. Rare. It was considered the HO LQ engine.
LS gets used a lot for GM’s newer engines, just in case you didn’t know, thought I’d pass it on in case you’re looking around or thinking about using one.
LS engines. (There are several versions - these are the most typical when people are talking about them)
LS1 5.7 litre / 350 cu in. Aluminum block and aluminum heads. Built for performance.
LS2 6.0 litre / 364 cu in. Aluminum block Aluminum heads - built and tuned for performance. Corvette etc.
LM 5.3 litre / 323 cu in. Your typical half ton, Tahoe, Yukon engine.
LQ4 6.0 / 364 cu in. Cast iron block aluminum heads. Truck engine. Build for lower end tq and working. Tough engine. Block and heads are different from LS. Lower flowing. Same as the older 350’s etc with different heads. Same displacement as LS.
There is an LQ9. Different pistons. Rare. It was considered the HO LQ engine.
Little time in the junkyard and you'll find one for $2-500 with no trouble. It's also good to know the head casting numbers. Might find a 6.0L in a 1500. Can't spot it unless you look at the heads ( 873/317 for LQ4 ) (862 and 706 for 4.8L/5.3L )
Also note, the 4.8L is a slightly de stroked 5.3L. They share all but the crank. So you can spin one a little harder to do the same thing as a 5.3L
To answer Freightrain's question, my 460 is stock. When I bought it about 60K miles ago I did the famed "6 liter tuneup" (coil, plugs and wires with bigger gaps in the plugs). I advanced the timing as much as I could without getting knock, which put it at about 14 deg (it was at 8 deg when I picked it up). That, along with replacing some broken vacuum lines brought the mileage from about 8 up to about 10.
I have thought about a Gear Vendors OD, and I might go that route. Or I might just regear the axles. But I do plan to drop the revs one way or another.
It sounds like I need to keep looking into the LS engine(s). Yes, I knew there were a bunch that fell into the broad bucket. It would be something like the 5.3L or 6.0L truck motors that I'd be thinking about. And if they don't have any better bottom end torque than my 5.4L or 6.8L I'm not going to be happy. But hey, that's why I'm asking questions now!
If it were myself. I'd put 3:73's in it and call it.
I'm curious as to what the powerband is like in those old motors? Would taking gear out help? Like I mentioned above, my current F150 has 3.08 gears and it's horrible on the highway(and around town) compared to my previous truck with 3.31 gears. My big question is would just adding a GV unit help enough to warrant it? It would be about the easiest upgrade compared to a full blown motor conversion. I don't see a stroker Windsor helping that much? The only thing it would have going for it would be better flowing heads, but in a low rpm/torque application I don't see that as much of an improvement.
Were those 460 roller cam? Maybe a cam change would increase power slightly at lower rpm, that with the GV might get you enough improvement to be notable? Get up to 15+? that would be a 50% increase and I think the simplest fixes. Maybe headers and free flowing exhaust?
GV is $2500
cam $400
headers $700
exhaust $700
total $4300












