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Okay so I got a new sender unit in today from green sales. It’s “made in Taiwan” and the only issue is that it only reads 3/4 full in the guage when the tank is actually full to the top/arm pushed all the way up.
ive read on here that it could be a bad ground, but when shorting the two wires it reads all the way up. So if anyone has any advice on this it would be much appreciated
secondly: I got a carb rebuild kit in because my accelerator pump has been leaking bad. The question is does the power valve need to be replaced when I rebuild this carb? Other threads and your tube videos have said that with the new carb kits, the power valve gasket leaks. So I don’t want to take the chance of disassembling it if I don’t have to. Thoughts?
oh and also; if I drop the fuel filter canister from the engine and remove the filter(I think it’s pretty clogged up) is it okay to just put the canister back on empty? It already has an inline filter. Of course this would be temporary until I can get a filter ordered as I can’t find anyone who has one in my area zip: 78642
Oh and also; if I drop the fuel filter canister from the engine and remove the filter (I think it’s pretty clogged up) is it okay to just put the canister back on empty? It already has an inline filter.
Of course this would be temporary until I can get a filter ordered as I can’t find anyone who has one in my area.
The filter is available from Ford, obsolete parts vendors, repro parts sellers and auto parts stores. It fits myriad 1964/79 FoMoCo vehicles.
C4AZ-9365-B .. Corrugated Paper Cartridge Fuel Filter (Motorcraft FG-1A)
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 16 = 972-937-2201.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 42 = 800-543-4959.
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 89 = 800-476-9653.
What carb are you working on? When you pull the fuel canister put a pair of hemostats on the fuel line, when you get the new filter in pull the hemostats and it will fill no problem. Sender units seem to always need calibration, the fuel gauge itself. The bottom hole in the pic has the cam that you adjust ( like fixing a watch that to slow or fast).
Sorry I should have said what carb I was using. It’s a motorcraft/Ford 2100
and I think there may be some confusion with what I said about the canister. By empty I mean without a fuel filter in it, since there is one in line before the pump. Would that be okay?
Sorry I should have said what carb I was using. It’s a motorcraft/Ford 2100
and I think there may be some confusion with what I said about the canister. By empty I mean without a fuel filter in it, since there is one in line before the pump. Would that be okay?
I would run the factory filter, it has a lot more surface area and protects the pump from crud. Ditch the inline filter.
I would run the factory filter, it has a lot more surface area and protects the pump from crud. Ditch the inline filter.
yes that’s the plan in a few weeks, however I have to order that factory filter, so as a temporary solution would it be okay to run the pump without the filter in the canister? There would still be an inline filter.
but once the factory filter arrives the inline filter will be taken out. I don’t see anything wrong with this but I could be mistaken
Okay I got it running without a dead spot, by adjusting the accelerator pump linkage, however I failed to mention that since I bought the truck when running it has had this smell in the exhaust. It smells as if it’s running a bit rich, more so at idle than running down the road. Is this normal? I’ve never owned a car this old so maybe it’s just an old engine?
There is an episode of Roadkill Garage, called the "Idaho Tater Truck". They do a great job of showing how to adjust a carburetor using a vacuum gauge and a wide band O2 sensor. It's well worth watching.
