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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 08:34 AM
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Carb rebuild problem



So I got a rebuild kit and have been rebuilding my carb, I got it all apart and cleaned it before work last night and came home and started to put it back together. But I ran into a problem. The part called (filter, fuel inlet part #22) on the instructions is missing, I have no idea where it went and can't find it. Anyway I can make this? does someone have a junk carb lying around they could send me an actual picture and dimensions of? I'm sure I'll have to but I didn't want to buy a new one, but I just can't get by with saving money for some reason.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 09:01 AM
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Why not just delete it and put a good fuel filter at the end of the fuel line going into the carb instead?

I don't think all YF carbs had that inlet needle filter. Some I have don't'
 
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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 09:07 AM
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One additional suggestion - replace any rubber connector lines that are old. I've seen some that look like this, where chunks can break off and lodge inside of the carb. These looked perfectly fine on the outside.

 
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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 01:10 PM
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Okay well maybe I'm not crazy, I would of sworn it didn't have it when i took it apart but I just seen it on the exploded view and thought I was in trouble because I couldn't find it anywhere. And just to be sure before I put it all back together, So would I just leave that part 22 out or are you talking that whole inlet valve there with parts 17-22? I was going to put a better filter on it so that's good, I just wanted to make sure that I still didn't have to have that, cause like I said I didn't think it was there in the first place.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 03:07 PM
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NO no! Don't leave out 17 - 22. Those control the fuel level in the carb bowl and without them you'll get a flood of fuel in and/or outside the engine.

Sometimes those service manual diagrams show a "generic" picture with all the various possibilities of all the various model builds. The pic "may not represent the actual product".
 
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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 03:15 PM
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Okay I was really sure I shouldn't because that's what I thought would happen, but I just had to ask to make sure I wasn't missing something lol. This is my first carb rebuild so I am really trying to make sure it's exactly how it needs to be. I just got it all back together now and I'm making the last few adjustments. The only thing is I ordered for a e5te-aa carb and made sure that was what I ordered but I can't find the exact part number for the specifications, the closest is like e5te-fa or ha but they were all for the 85-86 Ford truck and the specifications were all identical except for the choke valve pull down so I just went by that since I couldn't find anything else anywhere. Should they be alright?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 04:01 PM
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HMMmm. Most '85 - '86 vehicles came with an electronic controlled feedback carb which that picture is not. A carb with a part number of E5TE - ... should have been feedback. Anyway thank your lucky stars yours is not. They can be problematic with age.

When you get around to fine tuning your carb for your vehicle pay close attention to part #34, the metering rod height adjustment screw. Turning it in quarter-turn increments clockwise may improve how it drives. Just sayin'.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 04:11 PM
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I set that metering rod to how it said, turn it out til it bottoms then one full turn in, sound right? Hers the specifications, I'm just going by the instructions but I do know I had to adjust the float a lot, but the carb was running like crap from the guy I got the truck off of so I don't know if that's been messed with or not. I know he had the idle screws both turned in all the way.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 07:56 PM
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Did you put a new float in the bowl? They sometimes leak or get "waterlogged".
 
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Old Nov 29, 2018 | 08:04 PM
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I didn't, but I was wondering if someone else did because going by those specs for the e5te carb for the 85-86 300 for Ford trucks it was way off, it hadn't been bent at all. I did dunk it to check for leaks though and it was good. So the carb I have (picture in my last post) for sure isn't feedback? The truck was suppose to be all original, it only has 8Xk miles on it and still has all the original documents and manuals in the glovebox, but I have no way of knowing for sure if it's been changed or worked on or anything.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 10:14 AM
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Can you post a couple more pictures of your carb from different sides? For what it's worth, my non-feedback carb had part #22 from your diagram in it (circled in the picture below). You can also see a top-view of my carb.



 
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 01:00 PM
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Yeah mine definitely didn't have that in it that I can recal, I wouldn't of noticed that falling out on me. maybe I'm wrong and it's laying around here somewhere but I don't think so.



 
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 02:09 PM
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Also my fuel line going into the carb has been sitting there for a couple days now and I just went back out there and fuel is still dripping out of the fuel line. I don't think it should be doing this, should it, seems like if it's doing that it would continue to put fuel in the carb while sitting and flood it
 
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 05:01 PM
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So I just went on and put the carb back on because I wanted to see if anything I did made any difference. I don't know if I set it up right since I don't know if it's feedback or not yet. But I got it on, I hooked it all back up, tried to start and not even a sputter, which is where I was before, but it did run when I first got it just a month or so ago, I cleaned the carb and started it right up, then after a couple of times of it running, somehow it got the point where it wouldn't run at all. Not sure what's going on.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 05:25 PM
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Well I take that back, I adjusted idle mixture out two more full turns and it will not sputter a couple times then immediately die and if I try to do it more than a couple times it won't sputter at all again then until I wait a minute before trying to start.
 
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