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Oil leak help

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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 01:28 PM
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Oil leak help

Hello, Im trying to 'dry' up the underside of my engine. Recently purchased a 96 f250 7.3l that leaks like a sieve. Replaced power steering components and oil cooler seals, and have stopped most of the leaks. Now, I notice after the truck warms up, oil seems to be leaking on the drivers side rear of engine. The engine has so much gunk everywhere, its hard to tell where its coming from. I recently got a heart transplant, so im a little limited on what I can do. Wondering if anyone has had a similar experience. Photo is from under engine driver side

 
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 02:53 PM
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Went outside and sprayed engine down with degreaser best I could and washed it down. Still cannot figure out where the leak is coming from, but you can see the buildup on the valve covers and stuff. I also noticed what seemed like a steady drip of fuel from right before the bowl..... smh





 
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 03:06 PM
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there appears to be a leak dripping from the bottom of this. Also, can someone tell me what this is? is it just part of the fuel filter housing?

 
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by crtjester9
there appears to be a leak dripping from the bottom of this. Also, can someone tell me what this is? is it just part of the fuel filter housing?

That is the fuel pressure regulator. In the last pic in your second post there is a sensor with one wire going to it, that is just to the left of the lifting bracket, that screws into the fuel pressure regulator. Called the fuel restriction sensor, and it is known for leaks. On your oil leak, are all the blots in place and tight on the valve covers? The rear most one is a booger to get to, and maybe the P.O. didn't replace it if he had the covers off. There is a plug on the back side of the head for the oil rail galley, that has an o-ring seal on it. Maybe that o-ring is letting go. The plug has a square 1/2 inch hole in it to used a ratchet to remove and replace it. It will be hard to see as there is not much room back there.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by farmert
That is the fuel pressure regulator. In the last pic in your second post there is a sensor with one wire going to it, that is just to the left of the lifting bracket, that screws into the fuel pressure regulator. Called the fuel restriction sensor, and it is known for leaks. On your oil leak, are all the blots in place and tight on the valve covers? The rear most one is a booger to get to, and maybe the P.O. didn't replace it if he had the covers off. There is a plug on the back side of the head for the oil rail galley, that has an o-ring seal on it. Maybe that o-ring is letting go. The plug has a square 1/2 inch hole in it to used a ratchet to remove and replace it. It will be hard to see as there is not much room back there.
omg, that fuel restriction sensor is expensive! Can I just put threadlock or teflon on the threads if it is the source of the fuel leak? I felt the back of the head, its gunky, but didnt feel like anything was fresh.ill have to check the valve cover bolts. thanks
 
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 06:24 PM
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The driver rear oil galley plug feels dry. purchased, but did not yet install new fuel restriction sensor; autozone had a $10 off$50, so it was $40. Someone please look at the following photos and comment on each numbered item
#1, there is oil in this sensor. I assume that its on its way out? Name/part number for new sensor?
#2 is the wonderful wiring job the PO did. This looks like wiring harness to glow plugs and injectors, right? Is there a way to buy a new/used oem harness?
#3 Is this plug where an oil crossover pipe would go? And what goes in this empty threaded hole?



 
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 11:40 PM
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https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/injec...-sensor-94-96/ This is what you need for #1.
#2 Those wires should be soldered, and covered with heat shrink tubing. That bare silver colored wire is a grounding loupe, meant to keep electrical interference from the injectors. It should be wrapped around all the wires going to that plug. There was a post a few days ago that Clay at Riffraff had a complete new harness in stock again.
#3 Yes, I believe that plug would be where one end of a cross over line would go. The empty hole is probably an extra casting hole, not sure on that one though.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2020 | 02:08 PM
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Start at the top and work your way down.

Walmart has great, cheap foaming degreaser for about $2/can. I would buy a six pack of those, six pack of brake cleaner, and a 12 pack of beer. Start cleaning. Chances are every seal is OE from 1996 on yours.

I would pull valve covers. Verify square. Replace the CCV o-rings, they are about $5 from Dieselorings.com Inspect gaskets, replace if needed. Do glow plugs while in there if no records. Do the under valve cover harnesses if cash allows. Bolt down to spec, I think it is about 9lbft.

Sensor with three wire plug leaks, that is the ICP sensor. I would replace if you can...or at least plan to do so, Motorcraft only. I am sure the turbocharger pedestal leaks, that is not a job for the impatient. But do that when you have time, nearly all of us install a delete pedestal to remove the flapper. Reseal the IPR into the HPOP, it is not hard and if it is already covered in oil... no big deal!

Engine harness is fixable if you are patient person. It would not be a bad move to just replace the thing, plenty of guys here have good used ones and new are not too expensive shockingly.

Front main likes to leak, easier just to install a fresh Melling LPOP. I did.

Mechanical fuel system wise, I think that plug needed is just a 1/8" NPT. You really do not need any of that crap on there, just retain the IPR wiring. The rest ****can it. May as well clean the FPR screen and install a fresh spring for the FPR too.
 
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