When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The bushings adjust the camber and the caster all at once. So the program in the machine tells them what bushing to use and where to put it to shoot for the best reading for both the caster and the camber.
Thanks for your reply, Franklin 2. I'll have to tell that to the mechanic. He doesn't seem familiar with these old trucks. (The very first technician, a young woman, said that camber & caster was not adjustable. Right then, I knew I was in for a frustrating alignment experience.) He said the caster was adjusted by way of the radius arm. Apparently, this well-established shop in my home town only knows newer vehicles. Since they already fiddled with the toe-in and hadn't yet billed me for the 3 hours they have in my truck so far, I feel obligated to let them continue. I expect to be bringing my truck back for try #3.
He doesn't seem familiar with these old trucks. (The very first technician, a young woman, said that camber & caster was not adjustable.
Is the truck stock height, or lifted, or lowered?
I talked to a guy that used to do a lot of alignments on these trucks (4x2), and he said that they shouldn't need the alignment bushings unless something has changed in the suspension geometry (broken or sagging springs for example). I later took the truck to a different shop for the actual alignment, and all they adjusted was the toe. The camber and castor were both within spec. My truck has the bushings of course, but they are the concentric factory bushings. I have since put 3-4000 miles on it, and it tracks straight and the tires are wearing even (what little bit they have worn).
Everything is stock with new parts. That's why I was a bit surprised when the alignment shop said that I needed a new bushing as far out as +2.71 degrees. They got the fancy computer equipment, so I feel somewhat at their mercy. I'm looking to get lots of green on their alignment printout. If not, they have to explain to me why, since they called the numbers.
Everything is stock with new parts. That's why I was a bit surprised when the alignment shop said that I needed a new bushing as far out as +2.71 degrees. They got the fancy computer equipment, so I feel somewhat at their mercy. I'm looking to get lots of green on their alignment printout. If not, they have to explain to me why, since they called the numbers.
There you go, that's the way you do it. The printout should be all green, that is what you are paying them for. If they can't get it, they should have a very good excuse, or you should find another shop. And you are paying them to get it IN THE GREEN. Expect to pay around $150 for this kind of alignment. If a shop tells you $50 and that's it, all they are doing is the toe.
These Ford twin I beam suspensions get a bad rap sometimes, and some of the alignment shops being lazy is part of the problem. We can't help that Ford made it difficult to align them. They are not tire eaters if they are aligned correctly.
Thanks again for your reply, Franklin2.
On my first visit, I was given a bill for $125. and told that the camber & caster are not adjustable. This immediately told me that the young woman who worked on my truck wasn't familiar with old vehicles. So, it was brought back in and looked over by an 'old-timer'. He said it was out 2.71 degrees and they didn't have the bushings. I picked up the bushings and will be installing them myself. When I bring my truck in for Round 2 I figure it will be on the shop to make things right since they are the ones who told me what bushings I need. If I don't see Green I will ask why and I'll expect a reasonable answer.
It's good to hear from you, Rembrant, Big Blue and others. I don't feel so alone and have confidence in dealing with a shop.
I went and dug out my alignment report if it is of any use to you. This was with everything brand new. Pivot bushings, all 4 ball joints, inner and outer tie-rods and linkages, new radius arm bushings, and even new rubber pads under the coil springs. Zero degree (concentric) original bushings. The truck tracks straight and tires are wearing evenly. I don't know much about alignment equipment...this is all I have.
I see from the printout that your before & after camber settings are not that far apart. Like you, I also replaced many front end parts. That's why I thought my original camber bushings would be fine. But the tech showed me the report where one of my wheels was out by -2.71 degrees. I thought that was excessive, but he's running the show right now. I put the prescribed bushing in and will take it back next week. I expect to see a lot of Green on the new printout.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
