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APS Accelerator Position Sensor and IVS Idle Verification Sensor- do they fail often?
Do these go out or give trouble? I chased a no start issue with a WTS light which generally means a non-working PCM but I verified I had power everywhere, fuses good, grounds good, and even checked the PCM harness pins for good power. I knew I had power to the PCM so I then figured it was a bad sensor somewhere. I unplugged the 42-pin connector and still got no WTS so figured it wasn't any engine mounted sensor. I unplugged the MAP and IAH sensor but still no WTS. Only after I unplugged the APS and IVS did I get the WTS to come back on. But when I plugged the APS and IVS back in, my WTS stays on and the truck runs normally. Now I'm concerned I still have a bad sensor (probably the APS or IVS) but can't verify and hate to get stuck somewhere. Any recommendations before just dropping $400 on a new accelerator pedal assembly as I don't believe you can get an IVS separately?
When my aps was going bad i had obvious holes in the accelerator. Slight jerking and points that were not making a contact. I read that it would hurt fuel economy when it went bad. I bought a dorman from local parts store 99$. Better economy and smoother operating.
Its a variable switch attached to a pedal. Its going to wear out eventually. Your is probably bad enough to short out and effect other components.
When I replaced mine it really wasn't the drivability. It was the fuel economy. I read that cruise control eliminates the tps. So on a 220 mile trip I've made a lot I purposely didn't use cruise and averaged 18mpg driving between 70-75. On my way home I used cruise as much as I could averaging the same speed and got 21mpg.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.