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Water Pump Side Port Plug STUCK!!

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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 10:29 AM
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Exclamation Water Pump Side Port Plug STUCK!!

So this is a continuation from my Coolant Brand Post. I was doing my flush yesterday, and I was getting ready to hook up my coolant filtration system, but I can NOT get that plug out of the side of the water pump. On my pump, I have the recessed plug, others have an external plug. Any thoughts on how to get this out without destroying the plug, aka stripping it out? There is not a lot of room in there to work with, so trying to get any kind of leverage on it, is pretty tough. I was trying to get this out with the engine still warm, thinking that would help. I have not tried a torch, or an impact gun, but I'm about to if I can't get this out. I'm at a complete standstill until I can remove this plug. If ya'll have any ideas or if you have run across this yourself, please share on how you got it off. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 02:15 PM
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Is there a chance that it is a pipe fitting as seen in the kit below?



Amazon link: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002SWGG...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Other than that, penetrating fluid and brute force (impact gun/wrench) is the only way you are going to get it off. I don't know about heat in the location you are describing, but because you said "not a lot of room" so that leads me to believe heat is not an option. I have used an alcohol/ATF mixture as a penetrating fluid with decent results in the past.

 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 03:08 PM
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Did you do it with a cold engine? Warming it up may help. I know it did on mine and several other stuck ones I’ve helped with in the past. Get it up to FULL operating temp and get it to just break loose DONT fully remove plug unless you want a scalding shower. Come back and finish after it is cooled down.

AND yes. Plenty of penetrating oil.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Sous
Is there a chance that it is a pipe fitting as seen in the kit below?



Amazon link: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002SWGG...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Other than that, penetrating fluid and brute force (impact gun/wrench) is the only way you are going to get it off. I don't know about heat in the location you are describing, but because you said "not a lot of room" so that leads me to believe heat is not an option. I have used an alcohol/ATF mixture as a penetrating fluid with decent results in the past.
It doesn't look like any of those. From what I have gathered it is a 3/8 NPT but has a recessed hex head. I'm going to keep trying the penetrating lube, and I bought some more tools today in hopes of getting it off. I will try the impact gun for sure.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hanks
Did you do it with a cold engine? Warming it up may help. I know it did on mine and several other stuck ones I’ve helped with in the past. Get it up to FULL operating temp and get it to just break loose DONT fully remove plug unless you want a scalding shower. Come back and finish after it is cooled down.

AND yes. Plenty of penetrating oil.
The engine was warm, not hot. I had already drained the rad system, and was trying to get that plug out. I haven't filled the system back up yet, because I want to get this filtration system hooked up and then fill everything back up. I may have to fill it up and get it up to temp, and then try it like you said, then let it cool off and drain it again and fill it back up.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 09:43 PM
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Update, I got that sucker out. I bought a few extra tools today and one of them was a set of metric hex sockets. The one I used was an 8mm. I sprayed the plug with some blaster, and then put the socket on it, with my ratchet, and then I used my trusty breaker bar, aka the pipe, and wam bam thank you ma'am, that sucker came loose. I didn't even have to warm the truck up. Victory my friends. I've attached some pics so you can see what I did.


 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 10:22 PM
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I have a set of hex sockets and a 3' bar very similar to those. I prefer the bar with a 1/2" ratchet to remove the lugs on the truck even though I have an impact gun. Just feels more confidence inspiring for some reason.

Great job sir and good luck with the rest of the project.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 10:31 PM
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Congrats
 
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Sous
I have a set of hex sockets and a 3' bar very similar to those. I prefer the bar with a 1/2" ratchet to remove the lugs on the truck even though I have an impact gun. Just feels more confidence inspiring for some reason.

Great job sir and good luck with the rest of the project.
So update, the project is complete. The coolant filtration system is installed and looks pretty sweet. All new hoses, new degas bottle and cap. System has been filled back up. I have a small problem, it's leaking around the T-stat housing. I installed a new gasket too, and I can't figure why it's leaking. I had cleaned up all the surfaces too. I have the billet aluminum housing from dieselsite along with the 203 stat. Both are in great shape. I'd be doing great if I can get it from leaking. It's not a bad leak, but you can watch it seep out along the side of the housing. I know I'm going to have to drain the system again so I can pull off the housing. Ya'll got any suggestions on what I should do to fix this?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 07:48 AM
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The billet housing often requires sealant. You’ll have to drain the radiator and remove the housing, then use RTV outside the t-stat o-ring. I like to use Right Stuff (one minute cure - immediately return to service).
 
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 08:16 AM
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I got tired of the billet housing leaking and tired of using silicone on an engine with a coolant to oil cooler which is a no no so I went back to the stamped housing. I keep two, one on the truck and a spare cleaned and painted for T-stat swap out. No more leaks.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 08:25 AM
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After about a year of the billet housing on the IH pump, I too had a very slow leak.

I used a thin layer of this sealant and 4+ years later it is still water tight.

Permatex sealant Permatex sealant
 
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by THEDON117
Update, I got that sucker out. I bought a few extra tools today and one of them was a set of metric hex sockets. The one I used was an 8mm. I sprayed the plug with some blaster, and then put the socket on it, with my ratchet, and then I used my trusty breaker bar, aka the pipe, and wam bam thank you ma'am, that sucker came loose. I didn't even have to warm the truck up. Victory my friends. I've attached some pics so you can see what I did.
Is that loctite red on that plug or just a sealant of some sort? Loctite red makes removal a challenge without heat.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
The billet housing often requires sealant. You’ll have to drain the radiator and remove the housing, then use RTV outside the t-stat o-ring. I like to use Right Stuff (one minute cure - immediately return to service).
Sounds good, I'm going to go out and get some. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2020 | 09:10 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by bigb56
I got tired of the billet housing leaking and tired of using silicone on an engine with a coolant to oil cooler which is a no no so I went back to the stamped housing. I keep two, one on the truck and a spare cleaned and painted for T-stat swap out. No more leaks.
I hear you there. I've that thing thing leak before as well, it's kinda old. I may just do what you mentioned. For now I'm going to seal it so I can get on my way. Thanks.
 
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