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EEC-IV Test Fail?

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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 10:16 PM
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EEC-IV Test Fail?

Can't say I've read about this before. '93 F150 2wd 5.8 E40D
I have a semi-intermittent Check Engine Light. It comes and goes, but mostly stays lit. The more I drive the vehicle, the more often the light goes out. Lately it's on all the time.

During the initial KOEO test, the CEL never lit up, flashed, flickered or did anything. However, the ABS light did all the normal flashing of codes! Not consistently, but often. Near as I can tell, I have 528, 536 and 632 codes.
Not sure if the ABS system is experiencing a fault or not, and the ABS light is never otherwise illuminated (I'm pretty sure my truck has very minimal ABS, if any?).

It gets weirder from here.
Doing what I think is the correct KOER test, when I re-start the engine, it revs up to approx 2,000 rpm (no tach yet. Was testing before I changed clusters) and stays there for approx. a minute. Comes down slightly, then goes back up again for a few seconds before settling down to a normal idle.

Anyone seen or heard of anything like this?
Do those code numbers mean anything different if coming from the ABS light? I have not checked their definitions yet because I wanted to post this up quickly.

One last observation (for now anyway) is that in at least one video I looked at, a guy with a '92 looked like his CEL/MIL was in the same location as my ABS light. I'll get pictures later if needed, but my light locations do correspond correctly to the diagrams in the owners manual.

I'm going to try a different jumper wire, as perhaps the paperclip was not working right? Seems it was doing something though, as the vehicle never acts like this otherwise. I wonder if my TEST CONNECTOR contacts are oriented differently.

Thanks for any advice/knowledge on this.

Paul
 
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 01:51 AM
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Interesting. Previous to this the references I used showed 3-digit codes for this year truck. Yet another YouTube vid shows them as 2-digit. Was there a transition between '92 and '93 for this by any chance?
Tomorrow in the light I will use a test light in the diagnostic plug to see if I'm getting the same codes as with the ABS light on the dash. And make sure I'm reading the sequences correctly.

The fact that the engine revved up (which was not mentioned in some reference materials) shows that the test connector jumper was doing it's job and the PCM was simply going through it's tests. Albeit for longer than normal.

Paul
 
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 07:00 AM
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The engine will rev up during the KOER self test.
The 1992 and 1993 clusters have the same layout.

A '93 F150 2wd 5.8 E40D should have 3-digit codes.
All three codes are normally operator error codes during the self-test.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 07:00 AM
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I'm gonna shoot from the hip here...

Something is amiss here. Maybe someone has done "tweaking" before you got the truck. The ABS light shouldn't illuminate with CEL codes pertaining to engine diagnostics.

I think when you swap your cluster out, I'm not if you have done it yet, there maybe some wiring issues from a previous owner.
If you did swap the cluster, did you get the plugs into the correct sockets? That may explain the ODD ABS flash out.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 01:03 PM
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Nope, haven't done it yet because I did not want to be tracking down multiple issues.
It's the first time I've done the test, so it's highly likely I did something wrong. I've noticed some variations on the testing theme when using YouTube, so will go back to the book and see what I did extra, or which step I left out.

I figured the clusters were the same, and they do in fact start with the same F2 prefix. Mine is an F2 without the tach and the new one is an F2 with the tach. But I see the difference in light location is tach-vs-no tach clusters. The new one with the tach has the CEL right where my ABS light currently is in the column, but on the opposite side of the cluster.

On a semi-side note, how do I check ABS faults? Is there a way to do it without one of the specialized code readers? Would be cool to have a flashing light test, and see if during that my CEL flashes instead of my ABS light!

Thanks

Paul
 
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 02:02 PM
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Well whaddya know... My ABS and CEL light labels are reversed!
Just went out and re-read the owners manual page on the gauges and lights, and my ABS light is not only where the guy's CEL light was in the video last night, but also where the book says my CEL/MIL lamp should be.

So all this time when the light comes and goes, it's really my ABS light. Good thing that when I needed to smog it last week, it went out for two cycles and I was able to drive it over to the test station, leave it running while I waited, and passed the test because of no light.
Came back on right after I left the shop! So not all my luck is bad luck...
But now I have to find out what my ABS fault is.

I'll re-test anyway, not being freaked out by the wrong label this time, and then remove my old cluster to see if it's possible for someone to change the labels. I don't think so, because the face looks to be a one piece panel. Correct?

Paul
 
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
On a semi-side note, how do I check ABS faults? Is there a way to do it without one of the specialized code readers?
Thanks
RABS Flashout Codes
 
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Old Mar 7, 2020 | 03:43 PM
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Perfect, thanks. I should know to check with Steve83's stuff more often. Been using his SuperMotors info for many years.
I have trouble searching is pages sometimes, even though it's fairly straightforward with the dropdown menus and categories.

Paul
 
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Old Mar 12, 2020 | 03:02 PM
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Got my old cluster out and the new one in. Sure enough, the new one is correctly oriented and it's the ABS light that is lit. The CEL/MIL light is blessedly dormant.
Sure glad that did not give me any grief during my last smog check!

Looking at the back of my original cluster, the printed circuit panel for the CEL is correctly located in the middle position, but it's the upper light that's lit (ABS) and on the front panel the silkscreen markings are incorrect. Going to pull it apart and see if it's multiple pieces or just one panel. Looks like one panel?

Anyway, now it's off to look for any writeups on how to swap out the speedometers for each other. My new tach cluster works slick, but while my truck has 148k miles, the new odometer reads 280,000 miles! Yikes, don't want that...
Oh, and the speedo is stuck over on full 80mph. But haven't driven it yet and that may reset. It's just flopped over during install and I wasn't paying attention, so hopefully that's it.

Paul
 
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