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Brakes gone bad

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Old Mar 4, 2020 | 06:46 PM
  #1  
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Brakes gone bad

I have a rust bucket. I have replaced calipers, one by one, as they start sticking and dragging. There is definitely rust in the brake fluid. I flushed the fluid a couple years ago and rust in the fluid seems to be a constant.
I'm looking to fix this problem.
What parts do yall suggest I replace or rehab?
what is a good reliable way to make sure i get the rust out of anything I keep?
To note, the steel lines all seems solid on the outside. The master cylinder and reservoir do not seem rusted. The hydraulic hoses are pitted and getting replaced.
I'm guessing the system is not split between front and back?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2020 | 09:32 AM
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water inside the brake circuit will rust all the steel parts.

master cylinder is a split system as are all modern cars, it also has a steel piston, steel hard lines, steel Anti-lock module, steel calipers.

in other words your entire brake system is suspect.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 09:09 AM
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That's what I was afraid of...
Sounds like the true fix is to replace everything. I ordered new calipers, and have a crazy plan to back flush all the steel lines into the master cylinder with something to cut the rust like CLR or vinegar.
Ever been done before with success or you think headache down the road?

Would this be a complete system reboot?
master cylinder, hard lines/ hydraulic lines,
calipers
any other little pieces that could leak rust into the fluid?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 10:31 AM
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me thinks all that is an extremely poor idea.

no idea why you want to backflush, all that is going to achieve will be to push all the contaminants including the metal particles through the sensitive if not fragile ABS modular valve and destroy the pintles and seats. those are $1100 ( if you can even get a new one anymore )


not to mention you would need dealer level software to actuate the valve to bleed it.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 11:49 AM
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Thanks for the help and Sorry for being inexperienced with these new(ish) vehicles.
What would you suggest to get the fluid clear? Is it something I can do at my home shop that doesnt have a computer?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 12:40 PM
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I'd do the traditional brake flush until clear fluid appears out of each bleeder. Start at the rear passenger side, then rear driverside, followed by front passenger and driver. If the bled fluid has no bubbles and is clean, see how the braking works is in a safe area. Plan on running lots of fluid through the lines to make sure it's thoroughly flushed.

All rubber lines replaced too, right?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-r-how-to.html
 
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 01:25 PM
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I ordered new rubber lines all around including the center rear. Also have new calipers ordered and new master cylinder. Had planned on ordering new steel lines too.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 08:26 AM
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2 or 4 wheel drive?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2020 | 03:36 PM
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4 wheel drive 2004 with 6.0
 
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Old Mar 10, 2020 | 01:59 PM
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Dorman has a pre bent stainless kit. Best price I found was at Summit.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2020 | 02:31 PM
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Update
I stripped it down to the steel lines. They all looked good, no visible sign of rust. I flushed them again with brake cleaner and pumped fresh dot3 through them. New master cylinder, new calipers, new pads/rotors, new rubber lines. Bled the lines, no sign of rust. I put 30 miles on it yesterday. Stops on a dime and most important doesnt drag. Thanks again for the help. Messy job but not too bad.
 
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