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I’m getting ready to do a cab swap the first weekend in March.
I want to make sure I have everything I’m gonna need before getting started. I found this kit which is a little pricey:
I’m not doing a full body swap just yet, but I’m planning to get a new bed down the line so I should end up using all these parts. Does anybody know a cheaper way to get what I need? This kit was appealing in part because I don’t know parts I’m gonna need. I may or may not be able to salvage some of this stuff from my truck and I don’t want to get my cab pulled off and then have to wait a few days to get something in the mail. This swap has to be done over a weekend and if we don’t get it done I’ll have to tow my truck back home to get it out of the garage we will be borrowing.
Also I’m debating getting a new windshield. Mine is cloudy around the edges. So far the only place I’ve found them is LMC for $190 + $125 freight. Anybody know of any other sources? Bronco graveyard and Dennis Carpenter don’t have them. My junkyard doesn’t have them.
Also I’m debating getting a new windshield. Mine is cloudy around the edges. So far the only place I’ve found them is LMC for $190 + $125 freight. Anybody know of any other sources? Bronco graveyard and Dennis Carpenter don’t have them. My junkyard doesn’t have them.
I don't know if it'd work on a windshield, but I had a lot of cloudiness on my door windows that I was able to get rid of with steel wool. I think I used something like #0000 steel wool.
I had my windshield replaced on my 77 F-100 a few years ago and I had Safelite replace it for me. I know I shopped around and all of the local glass shops were able to get one for me. Whether or not you get one that is American made is a different story, if that matters to you.
I had my windshield replaced on my 77 F-100 a few years ago and I had Safelite replace it for me. I know I shopped around and all of the local glass shops were able to get one for me. Whether or not you get one that is American made is a different story, if that matters to you.
Any glass shop should be able to get one for you.
Carlite (Ford) still has them available but I think they're made in Mexico now.
Carlite # DW819GBN
If you're going to replace the body mounts, get yourself a couple of 7/16"-14 X 5" long GR8 bolts, a can of PB Blaster (or equivalent) and a big sledge hammer, this will make removing the old mounts much easier. Once the cab is off, spray the mounts liberally with the Blaster, screw the bolt into the mount from the top and have at it with the hammer. This "usually" works.The lower mount retainer is tapered and fits extremely tight in the top retainer. This breaks them loose.
If you're also doing the radiator mounts you'll also need a couple of 3/8"-16 bolts too.
It's too bad that you are time constrained. Removing the cab can present one with many opportunities and challenges most of which will demand more time than you have budgeted. Fingers crossed that you can get it removed in that time frame. As Mike intimated, those bolts can be hard to remove.
If you're going to replace the body mounts, get yourself a couple of 7/16"-14 X 5" long GR8 bolts, a can of PB Blaster (or equivalent) and a big sledge hammer, this will make removing the old mounts much easier. Once the cab is off, spray the mounts liberally with the Blaster, screw the bolt into the mount from the top and have at it with the hammer. This "usually" works.The lower mount retainer is tapered and fits extremely tight in the top retainer. This breaks them loose.
If you're also doing the radiator mounts you'll also need a couple of 3/8"-16 bolts too.
When you say “body mounts” are you talking about one of the following?
When I look at this, I think I need to replace 1, 3, 4, and probably that bolt. If #2 is the body mount, it looks like it can stay. I don’t want to over complicate things. If I can manage it, once we have the cab off I’ll try to wire brush the exposed frame and paint it before putting the new cab on the next day.
I don't know if it'd work on a windshield, but I had a lot of cloudiness on my door windows that I was able to get rid of with steel wool. I think I used something like #0000 steel wool.
I had my windshield replaced on my 77 F-100 a few years ago and I had Safelite replace it for me. I know I shopped around and all of the local glass shops were able to get one for me. Whether or not you get one that is American made is a different story, if that matters to you.
I tried the #0000 Steele wool today and didn’t see any difference after a few minutes of rubbing. Did it come off easily for you? I’ll give Safelite a call and find out if they have my windshield.
I’m working on cleaning up the new cab. I’m wire brushing the floor and planning to prime it and put sound deadener down. Today I noticed a couple things that made me scratch my head like this hole in the roof:
And the tar in these seams:
And behind the brake pedal you can see that they made cuts down at the bottom of the hole where the steering column goes. What’s that about?
I tried the #0000 Steele wool today and didn’t see any difference after a few minutes of rubbing. Did it come off easily for you? I’ll give Safelite a call and find out if they have my windshield.
The side windows are one layer of tempered glass, if there is something clouding it, it will be on the surface and can be cleaned off. The windshield is laminated, two layers of glass with a plastic layer in between. When laminated glass gets "cloudy", usually at the edge, moisture has attacked the plastic layer, making it cloud up. No amount of scrubbing will remove it.
I tried the #0000 Steele wool today and didn’t see any difference after a few minutes of rubbing. Did it come off easily for you? I’ll give Safelite a call and find out if they have my windshield.
It actually did come off pretty quickly, but I used quite a bit of pressure. I had another set of door windows, so I wasn't worried about ruining the cloudy originals when I tried it out as I wasn't sure how things would go. I was initially concerned it might scratch everything up. I just remember having the windows out and laying flat as I was going through everything in my doors while I was doing all of this. Like I said, I'm not sure how well it would work on a windshield, I'm not sure if they are made the same way or with the same type of glass/lamination. If you're with the mindset that I was in when I had a spare set of windows, just give it a lot of pressure (within reason) and see what happens. Just make sure you're doing it on the side that actually has the cloudiness attached to it.
My windshield was cracked out when I bought the truck and that's why I replaced it, otherwise I probably would have had to try removing some cloudiness out of it as well. I think my truck spent quite a few years sitting out in the elements prior to my ownership.
Edit: Looks like Mike answered the question on the different glass types.
After looking again at that kit, do those “metal sleeves” go inside the bushings?
The retainers, aka metal sleeves, aka towers are the lower part of the mount (#4 in your picture). The tower part is tapered and goes through the lower half of the rubber mount (#3 in picture). The upper half of the rubber mount (#1 in picture) has a corresponding tapered hole. When you tighten the bolt, you draw the two tapers together making for a very tight fit.
When you say “body mounts” are you talking about one of the following?
When I look at this, I think I need to replace 1, 3, 4, and probably that bolt. If #2 is the body mount, it looks like it can stay. I don’t want to over complicate things. If I can manage it, once we have the cab off I’ll try to wire brush the exposed frame and paint it before putting the new cab on the next day.
#'s 1, 3 & 4 are the body mounts. #2 is the frame bracket that the body mounts sit on/ are attached to. Sometimes the hole in the frame mount is very rusted out and now the hole in it is as big as the mount itself. There are "frame saver" bushings (actually large flat washers) that can be welded onto the frame to repair it.
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