With my previous reply in mind. If I got a 2014 motor would I run into issues with the 2011 computer or anything wonky that I would need to bypass or work around to get the thing up and running. I'm almost certain that I would need to get injectors programmed to the pcm, is that the only obstacle other than the mechanical labor of the swap?

 

labor would be in the 4K to 7k range.

 

yeah i figured as much. I've heard most repairs start at $1500 just to raise the cab. I should have plenty of time to get everything out of the front end before it shows up. I found a great series of videos of a cab on swap and it doesn't appear to be something that I can't handle but with all of those radiators and the computer situationn its very different from the 7.3s Ive swapped in the past. I really hope no one is as ignorant about buying a used vehicle as I have proven to be, it doesn't take much research to find out that 2011s are a major risk.

 

Is that shady dealer paying for the motor at least? From the very beginning, you had a problem in the making. You can't delete a truck, and leave the DPF intact. You can however, leave the EGR intact, and bypass. What your truck actually has for delete, or tunes is a massive mystery. THEY should be paying for all of this, but good luck with that. I'm not sure how you skipped over the wonky "delete" it has, and jumped straight to conclusions on injectors. Good luck man.

 

Slight update. I really want to replace it myself but I also really don't want to miss anything and mess things up. Forking over the $x,xxx is not an awesome feeling thinking I have the know how to do it on my own. The biggest challenge as of now having someone else do it is that everyone that I've talked to so far wants to tell me they have to reinstall emissions equipment. From my research I know that the only reason anything would need to be done to the computer is injector programming.
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​​​​​I think I'm going to get the mini Maxx unlimited unlock program to swap the programmer back and forth between my truck and my dad's so I can ditch the mystery tune and only spend $90 vs $600-$1400 for my own unit. I'm going to smash something through the dpf to gut it and save a few more dollarydoos and possibly keep myself out of trouble if the man ever checks to see if it's there.

I'm trying to find a solution to extend the life of my turbo instead of buying a 2015+ maybe cracking into it every now and then to lubricate it? If a bigger downpipe is beneficial to add for performance I want to have that put on when the motor gets put in, so advice on that is appreciated.

The replacement is a 2012 and I know it has the cp4 on it. I'll be keeping the old one for parts so I'll have one to replace it if I start to notice wear. Better idea to buy a bypass kit or are those snake oil?

 

You are going to gut it and use a delete tune?

you can’t gut it with a stock tune..it will enter regen and never exit...oil will fill up with fuel...engine will get hydro locked.

the computer needs data that regen temps have been reached and it needs data that ebp in the dpf is wishing the expected range. Both of which will not happen with a gutted dpf.

 

Yeah, without a delete tune gutting your DPF is a really bad idea.

Also don't attempt to crack open the turbo and lubricate it. It is already lubricated by the engine oil. Just keep up to date on your oil changes. That turbo isn't as reliable as the 2015+ turbo but it isn't horrible either IMO. Unless your are going full delete leave the exhaust system alone including the downpipe is my opinion.

 

It will have a full delete with a full delete tune. The dpf won't have any of the goodies in it anymore. I've done it with cats before where I've taken a diging bar sent it through the cat put a trashcan behind it fired up the motor sent all the filler into the can and it goes to the scrapyard.