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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

contribution balance issues need optimistic advice

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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 03:12 AM
  #16  
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I completely disconnect both batteries. I don't know what the minimal amount of time is but I have done this for >24 hours to clear an issue. This does not clear the calibrations on the PCM or TCM.

For example, if your TCM is shifting poorly due to a recently loaded tune, I would use FORScan to clear TCM all adaptions (I think that's the selection) and TCM clear learning tables (I have discovered just clearing learning tables doesn't help much), disconnect both batteries for some time and then run it through a drive cycle. I had saved this process from somewhere online for 11-16 trucks. Steps 3 and 4 are difficult on my local roads so I just drove it. I did follow the the parked shifting sequence.

Apply the park brake

With the engine running and the brakes applied, move the selector lever in the following sequence pausing between each position for four seconds.
Begin in Neutral, N-R-N-D-R-D-N. Repeat this sequence two additional times.

Release the park brake and accelerate at moderate throttle so each shift occurs around 1,500 rpm for diesel engines up to 65 mph. Brake moderately to a stop.
Repeat this sequence two additional times.

Accelerate at moderate throttle so each shift occurs around 2,250 rpm for diesel engines up to 65 mph. Brake moderately to a stop.
Repeat this pattern two additional times.

Stop the vehicle and apply the park brake.

With the engine running and the brakes applied, move the selector lever in the following sequence pausing between each position for four seconds.
Begin in NEUTRAL, N-R-N-D-R-D-N. Repeat this sequence two additional times.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 12:17 PM
  #17  
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If your truck had been deleted and the correct exhaust was installed to sell, the sensors on the exhaust being plugged in to the harness could be bringing down the sensor network causing your abs codes. Is it driving better with the exhaust opened up but still on? What’s the status of the exhaust? Make sure those sensor terminations are dry and disconnected.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 11:52 AM
  #18  
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After driving it around a bunch it's been narrowed down to just one faulty injector. Just need to nail down the abs system any common failures that I should know about?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 04:28 PM
  #19  
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Aaaand it blew up! Was running like a top, I stopped at a stop sign was able to get up to 15mph and the cp4 must've let loose. Dealer is claiming that he will pay for the repairs
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 04:39 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by parker_shelton
Aaaand it blew up! Was running like a top, I stopped at a stop sign was able to get up to 15mph and the cp4 must've let loose. Dealer is claiming that he will pay for the repairs
Blew up is a bit vague, in what way did it blow up? Huge ball of fire? Throw a rod? No fuel pressure?

Hope that dealer pulls through for you.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 04:45 PM
  #21  
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well, there is certainly more information needed.

Just goes to show, don't buy a used out of state deleted truck with emissions components missing. Must do your homework before purchase.

If locally owned there is still a big risk with so many unknowns.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 08:12 PM
  #22  
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I'm assuming just the cp4 went out on it. It wasn't overheating and I didn't have any puddles under it where it stopped. I'm assuming they have some sort of insurance on this sort of thing. I took it to a shop that pretty much only works on diesels and big rigs, told them if they think they can find any way to justify putting a new motor in it that would be ideal. One guy in the shop said they get a kit to replace everything and another mentioned a cp3 swap. I could care less as to what goes on it as long as I never have any issues with it and I don't have to pay for it. I highly doubt the next few weeks won't be incredibly stressful, I didn't think that my arduous amount of research regarding this truck after purchase would end up with me searching for a lawyer in regards of a worst case scenario.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 04:53 AM
  #23  
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They need to fix all of the emissions items. EGR cooler, SCR and DPF with OEM (from Ford's IDS) PCM/TCM calibrations. If it is the HPFP and that's all that is repaired ($9,000+), you still have unknown aftermarket PCM/TCM calibrations.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2020 | 05:05 AM
  #24  
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wont run right until it is fixed right.

CP3 won't work. You need to better diesel tech.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2020 | 03:12 PM
  #25  
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so this is back in the dealers hands?????

 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 09:55 AM
  #26  
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Finally heard back from the mechanic this morning. The good news is the pump did not fail, but it's irrelevant even if it had. The bad news is they pulled a glow plug that was broken and I have compression loss on a few cylinders. From what I've read it is due to cracked/broken exhaust valves that were only an issue in the 2011 models. So I got a very expensive <100 miles that I get to pay off for the next few years.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 10:38 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by parker_shelton
Finally heard back from the mechanic this morning. The good news is the pump did not fail, but it's irrelevant even if it had. The bad news is they pulled a glow plug that was broken and I have compression loss on a few cylinders. From what I've read it is due to cracked/broken exhaust valves that were only an issue in the 2011 models. So I got a very expensive <100 miles that I get to pay off for the next few years.

It sounds like you bought somebody else's nightmare. It very likely had the dead cylinder(s) when you bought it. The exhaust smoke would have been a dead giveaway, so the DPF went back on to hide it temporarily. The dealer either got duped as well or you fell victim to a scam that is becoming more popular around shady car lots.

I very briefly worked for a shady used car dealer a few years ago that would intentionally buy 2008 or newer diesels with dead cylinders. I walked after realizing they were crooks. They bought those trucks dirt cheap, cleaned the DPF or threw another DPF on, and passed it onto an unsuspecting buyer. When the customer returns a week or 2 later angry, they get reminded that the vehicle was sold as-is.
That dealership is no longer in business, due to legal troubles and a well-deserved bad reputation.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 04:41 PM
  #28  
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The dealer can't afford to pay and I can't return it. He's buying a motor and possibly shipping it here. I don't think he's ordered one but I know not to get one made in 2011. Will all of the 2012-14 motors drop right in with the same fitment? I'm getting quotes from mechaincs now to do the swap but I might do it myself if it costs more than $1500
 
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 04:45 PM
  #29  
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direct swap.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 04:55 PM
  #30  
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2012 Model Year Changes

• A stamped steel oil pan with a conventional bolt-type oil plug replaced the plastic oil pan and plastic 1/4 turn drain valve.

• The hidden locating stud on the oil cooler was removed for easier service/repair access.

• A second NOx sensor and sensor module were added to the exhaust system, used in measuring effectiveness of the SCR system.

• Revised oil and coolant feed lines for the turbocharger, quick connect fittings replaced with conventional bolt on fittings for improved sealing and durability.

2013 Model Year Changes

• Crankcase ventilation sensor added, signals to PCM whether the crankcase vent hose is connected or disconnected.

• Differential pressure (delta pressure) sensor added to the diesel particulate filter, used in implementing the active regeneration strategy as the filter reaches maximum capacity



 
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