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6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

contribution balance issues need optimistic advice

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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 06:03 PM
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contribution balance issues need optimistic advice

So i bought a 2011 with 250k on the clock. The EGR has been deleted but not the DPF does not have a tuner on it but has to have a tune for the egr delete. Drove alright the first day without issues the next day not so much. CEL, traction control, and ABS lights are on. Check the trouble codes and get P0281 (#7 cylinder contribution/balance) P0278 (#6 cylinder contribution/balance) P0306 (#6 cylinder misfire detected) and P0266 (#2 cylinder contribution/balance). Right now getting this motor running correctly is my priority not so much the ABS/traction control. I'm hoping a new fuel filter would help and some sort of injector cleaner additive. Possibly something that could clean up the valves too if there is such a thing. In my experience with my fathers 6.4 which will throw a cylinder 5 contribution balance code clearing the code solves the problem but doesn't in my truck. Thinking of replacing injectors is giving me some serious anxiety right now so any advice is appreciated.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 07:40 PM
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put the egr back on it and go from there.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 05:00 AM
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I’m with senix. I’ve never seen a delete tune that was not all or nothing. I’m not saying it’s not possible, but getting back to a stock tune and ensuring all the modules are communicating would be my first step.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 05:30 AM
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Have you ruled out the DPF being plugged? What is the distance since last active regeneration? My initial thoughts here are the DPF was reinstalled for the sale but it has a no emissions calibration installed to the PCM so that DPF is eventually going to cause issues.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 05:34 AM
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heres another thought. If you bought from a dealer, take it back. They sold it in correctly. They need to make It right.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 06:14 AM
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I wish I could just pop an egr back on and return to stock but I don't have one laying around since I didn't do the delete. After work today I might try unbolting the dpf and seeing if I can swing it out of the way to see if the truck runs without it hooked up. I haven't checked to see if it has any of the sensor plugs hooked up on it. I've been doing extensive research on cp4 failure/wear and how to diagnose those and it doesn't seem that I am getting the codes most people get when they go out. I live in VA and the dealer is in New York right now it's tough to find the time to get back up there and it would be a long haul for something to go bad. If the PO was unaware of the issues with the vehicle and not inclined to do maintenance then the water separator might be full but I'm pretty sure I'd have something on the dash telling me to drain it. Going to pick up a fuel filter for it today as well to see if that remedies any of my issues. All I can donate the moment though is pray that the cp4 and injectors aren't shot. I had planned on doing a full delete asap
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by kper05
My initial thoughts here are the DPF was reinstalled for the sale but it has a no emissions calibration installed to the PCM so that DPF is eventually going to cause issues.
This is a very good possibility, if there is no EGR then it's tuned. I would say it's not likely the 6.7 would be tuned with only the EGR delete. Most likely the DPF was slapped back on to make it look emissions compliant.

Checking for unplugged sensors and disconnect the DPF to see how it runs would be a good start IMO especially since it ran fine on day one and then CEL the next.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 09:03 AM
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Please correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't i be having a ton of super noticable issues if the cp4 is toast
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 01:51 PM
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I don't think a failing CP4 would cause misfire codes like that. HPFPs are either working and pumping or they have self destructed and you will have low rail pressure codes and won't run for much longer.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 06:32 PM
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Pulled the dpf loose and to the side and ran it like that it seemed to run better still idling a little weird. I need to pick up an obd2 scanner to run the codes again. It was shifting really late and only running well if I controlled it myself in manual mode. I'm assuming that had to do with the traction control being fudged up. Unless y'all can come up with a super helpful solution I have a bad feeling I'm going to have to crack into the valve covers and replace the injectors. Not sure if I should spend the money on that first or spend it on a tuner and hope that fixes it.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2020 | 08:01 PM
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Ideally, you need to know what calibration is installed (which you can only know by doing it yourself) but finding a no emissions tune at this point is going to be difficult. I'm with senix, if a Ford dealer sold this truck... they sold a no emissions truck that isn't functional. How many miles did you make it since purchase?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 04:45 AM
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Bought from a used car dealership not from ford
 
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 06:17 AM
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Bite the bullet take to ford, have them put it back together program it correctly and get it running

Imhotep that is expensive but the best option.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 08:55 AM
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Drove it about 35 miles so far today. It's now running well in drive and shifting well except for in 1st from idle. After getting off the interstate and sitting at a light had some greyish white smoke doesn't smell like antifreeze or water burning. Have a scanner that will be able to read the injector balance delivered today. Hopefully that will be able to give me some useful information. Still need to get to the bottom of my abs issue
 
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Old Feb 14, 2020 | 02:48 PM
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I want to try resetting the computer to see what happens. I know with older models you could disconnect the negative leads on the batteries to reset. What is the procedure on these things and will it erase the delete tunes?
 
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