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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

Replaced ICM today.

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Old Feb 9, 2021 | 12:27 PM
  #16  
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Was Sunday the first time that you tried to start the van with starting fluid and it did not start?
When I was driving my 85 e150 it developed a problem where it would not start until I released the ignition switch from the start position. In the crank position the engine would just spin over and not even try to crank. I never traced down the problem because shortly after I parked the van in part because I bought my 88.
I am sure there is a difference in the ignition system between the 85 and 94 but my 85 did have a TFI ignition. My 85 and 88 share the same ignition switch though my 85 is carbed and my 88 is EFI. My 88 and your 94 use the same ignition coil.

My point being perhaps the issue is in the starting circuit. Maybe as simple as one of the contacts in the ignition switch being burnt and not making good contact each time. You would need a diagram for your van to trace down those circuits and get an idea of what to check.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2021 | 06:29 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Spaznaut
Yeah if starting fluid didn't work then you definitely have an ignition issue. Not sure if you can use an aftermarket distributor on a '92 up OBD. May be worth a look if an Accel, MSD, or Mallory may work. I use a Mallory in my 514 mustang but no computer there. Maybe check the mustang forums on any aftermarket options while retaining the computer. https://www.holley.com/products/igni...ord/parts/8452
Yea, I dont know if I want to put more money into it. At 239,xxx miles with lots of original parts I foresee a cascade of failures all at once...
Since the CEL did out while cranking that supposed to mean that the PIP sensor is working.
Originally Posted by Mike1
carparts.com
autozone
advance auto
Napa,
They all have them, it just depends on how much you want to spend. I see them from $45 - $560.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by annaleigh
Was Sunday the first time that you tried to start the van with starting fluid and it did not start?
When I was driving my 85 e150 it developed a problem where it would not start until I released the ignition switch from the start position. In the crank position the engine would just spin over and not even try to crank. I never traced down the problem because shortly after I parked the van in part because I bought my 88.
I am sure there is a difference in the ignition system between the 85 and 94 but my 85 did have a TFI ignition. My 85 and 88 share the same ignition switch though my 85 is carbed and my 88 is EFI. My 88 and your 94 use the same ignition coil.

My point being perhaps the issue is in the starting circuit. Maybe as simple as one of the contacts in the ignition switch being burnt and not making good contact each time. You would need a diagram for your van to trace down those circuits and get an idea of what to check.
Yes, but this is only the second time I tried starting fluid, It has something to do with heat.... It drives and runs fine, I could probably drive it across the country, but when the ambient temps outside are hot, and I shut down the engine It has to sit 20 minutes or so before it will start again and when it does it runs perfect. This is a common problem with the mid 90`s 5.8W and seems like it has not been resolved.
Since the starting fluid did not work and it runs fine its hard to believe that the fuel pump is the issue and the CEL goes out while cranking wich means the PIP sensor is working and I just replaced the ignition control module.
I replaced the ignition switch a few months ago.
Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2021 | 07:43 PM
  #18  
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Did you check the cable ends for corrosion and check the main ground to frame make sure they're all clean. If it starts when cold but not when hot it could also be a bad battery or a dragging starter. Another very slight possibility could be that it might be vapor locking. One thing you can try is take a volt meter and measure the voltage draw on the battery when starting cold, then when its hot when it won't start take another voltage reading, see if there's a bigger draw when hot. You could also try jumping it off when its hot. If it starts it may be either bad cables, bad starter weak battery. Just some thoughts for you.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2021 | 08:34 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Mike1
Did you check the cable ends for corrosion and check the main ground to frame make sure they're all clean. If it starts when cold but not when hot it could also be a bad battery or a dragging starter. Another very slight possibility could be that it might be vapor locking. One thing you can try is take a volt meter and measure the voltage draw on the battery when starting cold, then when its hot when it won't start take another voltage reading, see if there's a bigger draw when hot. You could also try jumping it off when its hot. If it starts it may be either bad cables, bad starter weak battery. Just some thoughts for you.
Yes, I just cleaned the ends last weekend. It always starts when cold and when mildy hot out and runs fine. I can do the voltage draw when hot and see if anything shows.
I "am" starting to think it is something of an electrical nature, but I doubt its the the Battery because it cranks really powerful and had the battery tested a few months ago at interstate, although the last interstate I had went bad due to heat, so I was told.
I have a jump starter, next time this happens I am going to hook it up just for the heck of it and see if that changes anything.
Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2021 | 11:46 PM
  #20  
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Unless someone can help you with a diagram, here is a evtm for around $20
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-19...QAAOSw2lxfjy0m

Here is an example of what i was saying earlier about the ignition switch. It doesn't have to be in the actual switch though. It could be a connector or something in in one of the ignition components as Spaznaut mentioned.

Of course this diagram below is probably way different from yours but you can see how the green start circuit from the switch pretty much goes straight to the starter relay. So the starter will run no matter what else does or doesn't get power. The red is the second start circuit. that supplies power to the ICM, ECU, and 12V to the coil.
Your 94 uses the same coil as my 1988 so i am going to guess that you have a ballast resistor in your ignition circuit also.. Your starting circuit may not be all that diferent from the older generation vans.


 
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Old Feb 10, 2021 | 03:18 PM
  #21  
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[QUOTE=annaleigh;19725384]Unless someone can help you with a diagram, here is a evtm for around $20
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-19...QAAOSw2lxfjy0m

Here is an example of what i was saying earlier about the ignition switch. It doesn't have to be in the actual switch though. It could be a connector or something in in one of the ignition components as Spaznaut mentioned.

Of course this diagram below is probably way different from yours but you can see how the green start circuit from the switch pretty much goes straight to the starter relay. So the starter will run no matter what else does or doesn't get power. The red is the second start circuit. that supplies power to the ICM, ECU, and 12V to the coil.
Your 94 uses the same coil as my 1988 so i am going to guess that you have a ballast resistor in your ignition circuit also.. Your starting circuit may not be all that diferent from the older generation vans.




Have you tried giving it a little throttle while cranking when it doesn’t start ?


Remove the ecc computer and check for leaking capacitors !!


 
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Old Feb 10, 2021 | 06:19 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by annaleigh
Unless someone can help you with a diagram, here is a evtm for around $20

Here is an example of what i was saying earlier about the ignition switch. It doesn't have to be in the actual switch though. It could be a connector or something in in one of the ignition components as Spaznaut mentioned.

Of course this diagram below is probably way different from yours but you can see how the green start circuit from the switch pretty much goes straight to the starter relay. So the starter will run no matter what else does or doesn't get power. The red is the second start circuit. that supplies power to the ICM, ECU, and 12V to the coil.
Your 94 uses the same coil as my 1988 so i am going to guess that you have a ballast resistor in your ignition circuit also.. Your starting circuit may not be all that diferent from the older generation vans.
Ive got some diagrams I downloaded plus from the haynes manual.
Thanks Anna

Originally Posted by Steve460
Have you tried giving it a little throttle while cranking when it doesn’t start ?
Remove the ecc computer and check for leaking capacitors !!
Yep, throttle does nothing and I had a leaking capacitor and fixed it a while ago, but this issue has been ongoing.
I did purchase a new computer a while ago but it did not work and I returned it. Maybe I will remove the computer again and take another look at it.
Thanks Steve
 
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