Replaced ICM today.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 25
Replaced ICM today.
1994, Club Wagon, 5.8, E4OD 235,xxx miles
Replaced the ICM today, Fender mount, by battery. I replaced it several years ago and I dont remember it being this difficult, I guess it was easier when I was younger, LOL.
I ended up stripping the heatsink threads by tightening one of the screws too much, But that was easily remedied by a small nut and bolt to take the place of the screw.
Since the head of the small bolt sticks out on the bottom of the heat sink I found another small screw to go into the other threaded hole on the heatsink and when I installed it, the heat sink stands off about 1/8th of an inch from the fender well, I figure thats a bonus to allow air to flow under it.
Test drove it 10 miles or so.
This was to rule out the ICM as a culprit in the Crank/No start when hot issue I am having. Summer is coming and since its a cheap and easy job I wanted to see if this is the culprit. I wont know until the (ambient) temps go up.
Replaced the ICM today, Fender mount, by battery. I replaced it several years ago and I dont remember it being this difficult, I guess it was easier when I was younger, LOL.
I ended up stripping the heatsink threads by tightening one of the screws too much, But that was easily remedied by a small nut and bolt to take the place of the screw.
Since the head of the small bolt sticks out on the bottom of the heat sink I found another small screw to go into the other threaded hole on the heatsink and when I installed it, the heat sink stands off about 1/8th of an inch from the fender well, I figure thats a bonus to allow air to flow under it.
Test drove it 10 miles or so.
This was to rule out the ICM as a culprit in the Crank/No start when hot issue I am having. Summer is coming and since its a cheap and easy job I wanted to see if this is the culprit. I wont know until the (ambient) temps go up.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 25
Thanks for the encourgement.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 165
Likes: 10
From: Central PA, USA
Wish you good hunting. These problems can drive you to drink. Had problems with my 94. Always started, but not always right away. When I'd read codes nothing to indicate what the problem might be. Change things and seemed it worked better for a while. Finally had a bad reading on the fuel pump ground while checking the fuel pump pressure and ended changing the ECM. That was 2 years ago and I've not had problems since. I believe that I was having intermittent problems with it since I had the van, but was always working when checked.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 25
Well, I am pretty sure the ICM was the problem. I had not drove the van very far since replacing the ICM and the ambient temps were not very hot until recent. Today I drove it in very hot weather pretty far and it restarted every time without a hiccup. I will keep my fingers crossed.
Waiting for the next issue/repair to popup...................
Waiting for the next issue/repair to popup...................
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 25
1994, Club Wagon, 5.8W E40D 239,XXX miles
Well, it looks like the ICM was not the problem
. I dont remember if I posted this already but I bought a can of starting fluid to keep in the van and ironically when I got home it did the crank no start thing. I opened up the air filter box and gave a couple sprays into both air intake hoses and it started up............ But, I doubt the problem is the fuel pump itself due to the fact that it runs really good, does not stall or stumble and continues to run in hot weather until I shut it off then try to restart.
Ive got no codes, Spark is good, just does not want to restart in hot weather until it sits for a while.
Cold weather, no problems at all, (except the wipers come on by themselves in cold weather when I start the van) 
.
This seems to be a common issue among the mid 90`s 5.8W. At work there are several customers that have the same exact issues with thier E-series and one with a 1995 Bronco that wont start in hot weather after driving it for a while, he has to let it sit for 20 minutes or so before it starts.
There must be something in the fuel delivery system that does not like hot weather or is getting too hot and not allowing it to start.
Or Air temp sensor, O2 sensor or something, Cats maybe
At least I can get around town on short trips in the summer.......
Well, it looks like the ICM was not the problem
. I dont remember if I posted this already but I bought a can of starting fluid to keep in the van and ironically when I got home it did the crank no start thing. I opened up the air filter box and gave a couple sprays into both air intake hoses and it started up............ But, I doubt the problem is the fuel pump itself due to the fact that it runs really good, does not stall or stumble and continues to run in hot weather until I shut it off then try to restart.Ive got no codes, Spark is good, just does not want to restart in hot weather until it sits for a while.
Cold weather, no problems at all, (except the wipers come on by themselves in cold weather when I start the van) .This seems to be a common issue among the mid 90`s 5.8W. At work there are several customers that have the same exact issues with thier E-series and one with a 1995 Bronco that wont start in hot weather after driving it for a while, he has to let it sit for 20 minutes or so before it starts.
There must be something in the fuel delivery system that does not like hot weather or is getting too hot and not allowing it to start.
Or Air temp sensor, O2 sensor or something, Cats maybe
At least I can get around town on short trips in the summer.......
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 162
Likes: 5
From: Bremen, Germany
Check Camshaft/Crankshaft position sensors.
those are dirt cheap so it might bei worth it replacing both
those are dirt cheap so it might bei worth it replacing both
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 299
Likes: 6
From: South NJ
Ugh.
$0.02 worth??
when we had the with the "no-start when hot problem" with our van, it always ran FINE once it cooled off and started (zero stumbling or roughness). The shop could not "for sure" identify the fuel pump as the problem.... but since it was replaced - the issue has not re-occured.
Good luck.
$0.02 worth??
when we had the with the "no-start when hot problem" with our van, it always ran FINE once it cooled off and started (zero stumbling or roughness). The shop could not "for sure" identify the fuel pump as the problem.... but since it was replaced - the issue has not re-occured.
Good luck.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,265
Likes: 438
From: IL
Sounds more to me like you have a bad fuel pressure regulator, sounds like once it gets heat soaked, it becomes weak. I would test the Fuel pressure at the Schrader valve when you first start it cold, then let it warm up test the pressure when warm (Hot), shut it off, try to start it, if it's a no start, test the pressure again, if it drops low, more than likely the spring in the FPR is bad....The FPR only cost about $30, If it's the original one, it couldn't hurt just to change it anyway.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
The hot start problem is almost always ignition related, the two most likely culprits are the TFI module and the pickup inside the distributor. It's easy enough to test fuel pressure to see if it is the problem but if it is the fuel pump is the most likely cause not the regulator since it does not completely restrict fuel flow and it's most common failure mode results in high pressure or fuel leaking past the diaphram, both of which lead to over fueling.
Faults with ignition components usually set codes too so pulling the codes should always be part of diagnostics.
Faults with ignition components usually set codes too so pulling the codes should always be part of diagnostics.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 25
Thanks
Ugh.
$0.02 worth??
when we had the with the "no-start when hot problem" with our van, it always ran FINE once it cooled off and started (zero stumbling or roughness). The shop could not "for sure" identify the fuel pump as the problem.... but since it was replaced - the issue has not re-occured.
Good luck.
$0.02 worth??
when we had the with the "no-start when hot problem" with our van, it always ran FINE once it cooled off and started (zero stumbling or roughness). The shop could not "for sure" identify the fuel pump as the problem.... but since it was replaced - the issue has not re-occured.
Good luck.
Thanks
Sounds more to me like you have a bad fuel pressure regulator, sounds like once it gets heat soaked, it becomes weak. I would test the Fuel pressure at the Schrader valve when you first start it cold, then let it warm up test the pressure when warm (Hot), shut it off, try to start it, if it's a no start, test the pressure again, if it drops low, more than likely the spring in the FPR is bad....The FPR only cost about $30, If it's the original one, it couldn't hurt just to change it anyway.
Thanks
The hot start problem is almost always ignition related, the two most likely culprits are the TFI module and the pickup inside the distributor. It's easy enough to test fuel pressure to see if it is the problem but if it is the fuel pump is the most likely cause not the regulator since it does not completely restrict fuel flow and it's most common failure mode results in high pressure or fuel leaking past the diaphram, both of which lead to over fueling.
Faults with ignition components usually set codes too so pulling the codes should always be part of diagnostics.
Faults with ignition components usually set codes too so pulling the codes should always be part of diagnostics.
The newer distributors (spectra) are very poor quality and read in several places that the pin that holds the gear on shears off.
Thanks
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 793
Likes: 25
1994 Club Wagon, 5.8 239,833 Miles E4OD
So Sunday I went on a fairly long trip and had to stop on the way home, Van would not start Cranks with full power but no start. Sprayed starting fluid in both intake hoses and nothing, tried again with no rusults. Hopefully I didnt do any damage to lifters or rods because there was a major cackling sound while cranking
, but no odd sounds from the engine now and it drives fine.
While cranking the CEL does go out, According to a few different sources that is supposed to indicate that the PIP is working, If the CEL does not go out while cranking then the PIP is not working correctly.
Left the hood open and sat for 20 minutes and it started up and I was on my way home.
This time I noticed that the oil pressure gauge would slam back to zero when i stopped cranking, almost as if there is an electrical fault that is keeping it from starting, when it cools down it starts.
Just out of curiousity I would really like to find out what the problem is before I scrap the van. but I dont want to put much more cash into it.
I may go ahead with a fuel pressure gauge install to see if that is the problem, before replacing the Distributor, If I get that far.
So Sunday I went on a fairly long trip and had to stop on the way home, Van would not start Cranks with full power but no start. Sprayed starting fluid in both intake hoses and nothing, tried again with no rusults. Hopefully I didnt do any damage to lifters or rods because there was a major cackling sound while cranking
, but no odd sounds from the engine now and it drives fine.While cranking the CEL does go out, According to a few different sources that is supposed to indicate that the PIP is working, If the CEL does not go out while cranking then the PIP is not working correctly.
Left the hood open and sat for 20 minutes and it started up and I was on my way home.
This time I noticed that the oil pressure gauge would slam back to zero when i stopped cranking, almost as if there is an electrical fault that is keeping it from starting, when it cools down it starts.
Just out of curiousity I would really like to find out what the problem is before I scrap the van.
but I dont want to put much more cash into it. I may go ahead with a fuel pressure gauge install to see if that is the problem, before replacing the Distributor, If I get that far.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 7
From: NE Tennessee
Yeah if starting fluid didn't work then you definitely have an ignition issue. Not sure if you can use an aftermarket distributor on a '92 up OBD. May be worth a look if an Accel, MSD, or Mallory may work. I use a Mallory in my 514 mustang but no computer there. Maybe check the mustang forums on any aftermarket options while retaining the computer. https://www.holley.com/products/igni...ord/parts/8452