Tire PSI
im running BFGoodrich KO2 tires. Is that accurate and is that ok for the tires if it’s above 80 once warmed up? I use a manual tire pressure gauge befor I leave so I know where the pressure is at.
thanks for any advice.
1.) Ford is gun-shy about tire pressures after the whole Explorer/Firestone fiasco. They had set Explorer tire pressures for "comfort" but still above minimum weight carrying needs. But people don't check tire pressures, so when the tires lost air, they went below the minimum, stressing the tire until it failed.
2.) People are stupid in general, and look at operating a vehicle with the least amount of effort (don't check the oil, fluids, tire pressures). They expect idiot lights to do that for them.
3.) Since people are stupid in general, someone will load up their truck (probably exceeding the weight limit too) without checking tire pressures, have a blow out, then blame Ford and/or tire manufacturer. See #1 above.
This is why we have TPMS systems now, because people don't bother to check their tire pressures. And since TPMS systems have no way of knowing what the load on the tire is, Ford defaults to "max" settings. This is why Ford is recommending your rear tire pressure be set to 80 PSI. That, coincidentally, is the max pressure for a Load Range E tire. The 275/65r20 tire has a max load of 3,750 lbs as a "single tire", or 7,500 lbs on the axle. Rear GAWR for an F350 SRW diesel with 20's s 7,230lbs I believe, so max pressure in the tire (80 psi) is just over the max GAWR rating.
Base curb weight on the rear axle is probably around 3,000lbs based on what I'm seeing in the Body Builder handbook. Looking at a load inflation table for that tire size, even at 35 PSI, you'd have 4,160 lbs of load capacity on the rear axle. Go to 40PSI to have even more safety margin and you are looking at 4,560lbs of weight carrying ability. Weigh you truck by axle and you can really fine tune the tire pressure needed.
Running around unloaded at 80 PSI is doing two things; Increasing fuel economy (less rolling resistance) and wearing out the center of your tread much faster than the sides.
Michelin load table: https://www.michelintruck.com/refere...tion-tables/#/
im running BFGoodrich KO2 tires. Is that accurate and is that ok for the tires if it’s above 80 once warmed up? I use a manual tire pressure gauge befor I leave so I know where the pressure is at.
thanks for any advice.
Seeing a 10psi increase when the tires heat up is normal. My experience so far with TPMS leads me to believe they are fairly accurate.
im running BFGoodrich KO2 tires. Is that accurate and is that ok for the tires if it’s above 80 once warmed up? I use a manual tire pressure gauge befor I leave so I know where the pressure is at.
thanks for any advice.
A 10 lb increase when towing when not be unusual .
Door jam data points: It is MY opinion that the psi listed on the door jam refers to when the truck is loaded to that specification.. Then you can use your tire charts to give you a psi at any given load. The drawback is that if you have varying loads. If you pull a 5th wheel and CAT scale it then you have a reliable data point that you can inflate to: In my case I have truck + Truck Camper + a trailer for 3 different weights: 9460 lb 15540 lbs and 19,200 lbs respectively. I adjust my psi depending upon how I am hauling, it varies from 70 psi to 90 psi.
I have found that I can check all of the truck tires at within .5 psi of each other at rest and then find that the TPMS shows 2 psi or so difference. Is it the repeatability of my gauge or the TPMS??
Another thing to think about is what do you consider to be cold pressure when you check. With a digital gauge, I'll see a difference between a tire that's shaded and one that's been in direct sunlight for a while (verified by TPMS), even though the truck has sat overnight.
Its my viewpoint that the TPMS is for monitoring and avoiding an issue while in transit. I'll use my gauge to set my tire pressures.
So my thing is to use the same gauge and don't worry over a few pounds. The difference in the readings from gauge to TPMS doesn't bother me so much as the difference from side to side. That you may feel more than a pound or two up or down... better to be the same left to right... Im going to be looking at that more because I think the right one always shows a bit higher than the left... See that's the problem for me... the TPMS is 4 separate sending units... each could be different at the same actual pressure... whereas the gauge is one unit across all 4 tires...
Find the pressures that work empty and loaded and how the contact patch is and ride with that pressure on whichever gauge you use.
Its like stepping on the scale to see your weight. No 2 are the same.
So my thing is to use the same gauge and don't worry over a few pounds. The difference in the readings from gauge to TPMS doesn't bother me so much as the difference from side to side. That you may feel more than a pound or two up or down... better to be the same left to right... Im going to be looking at that more because I think the right one always shows a bit higher than the left... See that's the problem for me... the TPMS is 4 separate sending units... each could be different at the same actual pressure... whereas the gauge is one unit across all 4 tires...
Find the pressures that work empty and loaded and how the contact patch is and ride with that pressure on whichever gauge you use.
Its like stepping on the scale to see your weight. No 2 are the same.
If you want to see how accurate your TPMS is. Park your truck North-South orientation on a sunny day somewhere before noon go out and turn on your truck and look at your TPMS read outs. They should be 1-3 lbs psi over the other side of your truck that is in the shade. The sun exposed tires will heat up more than the tires in the shade and depending upon ambient air temp and where you live the difference can be a little as one lb and as high as 3 lb. Here in S Tx with nights in the low 70's and days heading towards 100 by mid day you can get a 2-3 lb difference.
When I got to check my psi I do it out in my barn where the truck is inside and all my psi should be equal side to side.
If you are like me you got tire agues all over the place. When I got my F 450 sans TPMS and had to rely upon my tire gauges I dug out all of them I think about 9 total. I then checked A tire using each gauge I was SHOCKED at what I discovered. I had differences of over 30 psi and out of the 9 I had 3 gauges that read the same +/- 1 lb. I then repeated them on another tire that took a differs PSI (rear Vs front). I ended up keeping 3 and tossing 6 others. Some were old, some newish, some digital, some analog.
What I found was the tire gauges that agreed with each other also agreed with the TPMs. If you want to optimize your tires. What I did was take my AC unit out to the barn and one morning when the ambient temp was about 70 I equalized Left - Right psi and I used door jam psi. I have now done it "cold" and L/R is within .5 psi of each L/R tire. Next step was to find the contact patch because its NOT the PSI, its the contact patch loaded and unloaded. The door jam give you a 'at weight' PSI, not unloaded PSI (note, I could be wrong on this, but door jam provides only 2 data points, PSI and a Max weight loaded, I will assume the PSI given = with max weight loaded, I am open for correction).
Contact patch: Couple of ways, dust or wet test and you can see visually the size of the contact patch. I adjust when the tires are hot in 2 lbs increments +/- to get full contact.
Before someone starts screaming "Charts is the Bible" let me assure you its not the Bible, it is your guide and the charts are in 10 or 5 psi increments. I do use the charts, AFTER I have CAT scaled to get me as close as I can, but my final results and confirmation come from my visual contact patch inspection and adjustment.
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