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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 09:37 PM
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Tire PSI

I just purchased my 2019 about a month ago. The tire psi in the truck reads 82 for all the tires. Am I missing something. On my door sticker the recommended psi is 65 for rear and 60 for the front. Did some bafoon make a mistake when filling them up?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 09:39 PM
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Yeah someone screwed up. If its cold there maybe go a couple lbs under what is says so you dont have to jack with it this summer.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 10:14 PM
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I run 50 in the front, 45 in the rear. Very happy and tires are wearing evenly.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 10:28 PM
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Thank you for the advice
 
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 10:53 PM
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I have the 20" Michelins. I run 65 in the front and 55 in the rear commuting unloaded all the time. I back into a garage with a smooth dusty floor and get a chalk test every day. If loading up I run the pressures listed on the door. I used to lower the pressure on my GMC with Duratracs to 50 for ride quality. I tried lowering the Michelins and actually like them better at higher pressure. Different tires require experimentation.
But the pressures in the door are full load rating. Theres no reason to run 65 in the rear if your empty 90% of the time. Youll just wear the center of the tread and bounce around.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikelikesit
I have the 20" Michelins. I run 65 in the front and 55 in the rear commuting unloaded all the time. I back into a garage with a smooth dusty floor and get a chalk test every day. If loading up I run the pressures listed on the door. I used to lower the pressure on my GMC with Duratracs to 50 for ride quality. I tried lowering the Michelins and actually like them better at higher pressure. Different tires require experimentation.
But the pressures in the door are full load rating. Theres no reason to run 65 in the rear if your empty 90% of the time. Youll just wear the center of the tread and bounce around.
Door sticker on my 2019 CCSB PSD with 20” Michelins says 60 pounds front and 80 pounds rear so that is what I’ve been running. I assumed I’d get best wear running at recommended pressures at the sacrifice of a bit harsher ride. Am I reading this isn’t necessarily true?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 10:16 AM
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You have E rated tires on your truck if they're stock with a max psi of 80. I run what the door sticker says in the winter [60f, 65r] but in the summer when I'm towing I run max psi of 80 in the rear and 70 in the front.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 11:31 AM
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60 front 65 rear PSI is a F250 trucks, with 10,000 or 9900 GVW, For my F350 is 60 front and 75/80 rear. I am running 50 front a rear cold. On highway, it goes up to 57-58 psi winter unloaded..
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 11:45 AM
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I usually run 60/60 but I need to get the computer changed and move the low pressure warning down to 50 or so to keep it from always being on.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Go Seahawks!
Door sticker on my 2019 CCSB PSD with 20” Michelins says 60 pounds front and 80 pounds rear so that is what I’ve been running. I assumed I’d get best wear running at recommended pressures at the sacrifice of a bit harsher ride. Am I reading this isn’t necessarily true?
Yes thats what I have been doing forever. If you read the sidewall it will say Max Load xxxx single @ xx air pressure. Max Load dual xxxx @ xx air pressure. If you are a contractor who is loaded a lot you can run that all the time. If your a full time RVr...same. But if you run around empty in a 3/4 or 1 ton truck all the time but for a boat tow 4 times a year and a load or two out of Home Depot you dont need to run those max pressures. I mention the dusty concrete floor because an over inflated tire will run in the center of the tread and an under inflated tire will run towards the outside. Backing over the dust you can actually see when the entire tread is covered with dust.
That said, an under inflated tire will also run hotter than a PROPERLY inflated tire. Thats why if your loaded near the max rated load you need to have proper inflation. Low air pressure was a contributing factor to the infamous crashes in the 80s or 90s when people started choosing big truck like 4x4 SUVs for family transport. They were driving vehicles they were not technically qualified to operate. They never even looked at their tires or considered the air pressure unless they went flat.
In the trucking industry you are checking your tires every time you enter or exit the vehicle. Looking at the bulge on the bottom for inconsistency. Looking for screws, rocks or debris in the treads. Banging on them with a billy club or hammer to ensure they all sound the same. If they all go BONG and one goes clunk... the clunky one is under inflated.
In your car its easy. They stay at proper inflation at all times or you add. Loading is mostly irrelevant. In the truck designed for heavy loads... proper air inflation will change with load.
Many truck owners feel the truck rides better with lower air pressure. If they rarely tow or haul they leave it at the lower pressure. But if you haul often and heavy, its probably better to leave it near the max rated pressure.
Its not black and white. To make it more confusing different tires may have different max pressures and max loads. The sticker in the door is appropriate for the OEM tires but may not be for your future sets.
This site is a good resource if you have questions. Youll find all sorts of divergent opinions but there will also be trends. Mostly everyone in here is a truck person with opinions based on experience. Youll find some wrong info but usually someone will call that out.
I have found this community to be filled with good info from guys who care and are more than willing to share. Without judgement.
If you are still unsure or skeptical as you investigate the tire pressure info you should go with the door sticker. You can feel confident at those pressures. Altering the pressure is a finesse issue relating to driving dynamics. Info and experimentation leads people to their conclusions. The door sticker is the baseline.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 12:30 PM
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By the way. See how your sticker is 60 front and 80 rear. That is because max load on the front axle will be lower than max load in the rear if you have 2500 Lbs of tile and thinset in the bed Right?? But if your empty all the time you have the weight of perhaps a 6.7 diesel on the front and the weight of an empty aluminium bed on the rear... So Im thinking as little as half the weight is now on the rear. 80 psi will be over inflated for those tires in that application. All 4 tires are the same so when you rotate your going to drop the 80 lb tires to 60 for the front and 60 to 80 accordingly. So the tires are fine in that range. The only change is potential weight.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 12:31 PM
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My 2019 PSD CCSB with the 20" Michelin tires also calls for 60 PSI front and 65 PSI rear. The ride is better at 60/60, IMO.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 12:48 PM
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I have 35x12.5x18 F load and I run 48F and 42R unloaded.

There is a load chart on Nitto/Toyo's websites that shows load rating for tire sizes at different psi's. Very useful for determining a safe psi at a given load.

Carli has a nice write-up on their recommended psi's and their justification for it as well.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Go Seahawks!
Door sticker on my 2019 CCSB PSD with 20” Michelins says 60 pounds front and 80 pounds rear so that is what I’ve been running. I assumed I’d get best wear running at recommended pressures at the sacrifice of a bit harsher ride. Am I reading this isn’t necessarily true?
Ford doesn't care at all about you getting the best "wear" out of the tires. They care about limiting liability. The "recommended" pressures are far higher than needed for everyday driving, but because of the following, you get those numbers:
1.) Ford is gun-shy about tire pressures after the whole Explorer/Firestone fiasco. They had set Explorer tire pressures for "comfort" but still above minimum weight carrying needs. But people don't check tire pressures, so when the tires lost air, they went below the minimum, stressing the tire until it failed.
2.) People are stupid in general, and look at operating a vehicle with the least amount of effort (don't check the oil, fluids, tire pressures). They expect idiot lights to do that for them.
3.) Since people are stupid in general, someone will load up their truck (probably exceeding the weight limit too) without checking tire pressures, have a blow out, then blame Ford and/or tire manufacturer. See #1 above.

This is why we have TPMS systems now, because people don't bother to check their tire pressures. And since TPMS systems have no way of knowing what the load on the tire is, Ford defaults to "max" settings. This is why Ford is recommending your rear tire pressure be set to 80 PSI. That, coincidentally, is the max pressure for a Load Range E tire. The 275/65r20 tire has a max load of 3,750 lbs as a "single tire", or 7,500 lbs on the axle. Rear GAWR for an F350 SRW diesel with 20's s 7,230lbs I believe, so max pressure in the tire (80 psi) is just over the max GAWR rating.

Base curb weight on the rear axle is probably around 3,000lbs based on what I'm seeing in the Body Builder handbook. Looking at a load inflation table for that tire size, even at 35 PSI, you'd have 4,160 lbs of load capacity on the rear axle. Go to 40PSI to have even more safety margin and you are looking at 4,560lbs of weight carrying ability. Weigh you truck by axle and you can really fine tune the tire pressure needed.

Running around unloaded at 80 PSI is doing two things; Increasing fuel economy (less rolling resistance) and wearing out the center of your tread much faster than the sides.

Michelin load table: https://www.michelintruck.com/refere...tion-tables/#/
 
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 04:32 PM
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^^ Yup to all that. And thats the whole thing with the dusty concrete floor. When my tires were too heavy you could see the dust on the center of the tread but not on the outer tread. As I lowered pressure I could see it filling out. Until all the tread touched the concrete and was covered in grey from the dust.
 
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