Ethyl THE TOOL TRUCK 1955 C600 Eaton 1350 two speed differential has gear oil dripping all over the driver side rear wheel...AGAIN...I was in there a few months ago. I havent driven the truck but three thousand miles since my work there....I replaced the inner seal and the outer gasket, packed the bearings with grease, refilled the differential put new shoes on, replaced the brake return springs, replaced both wheel cylinders, and had the drum machined....actually I did that same stuff to the passenger rear back then also but it appears to still be dry....probably because all the fluid is leaking out of the other side......I did NOT see any problem with the surface of the differential where the Seals ride...no grooves no pitting etc...at least back then...
I have NOT opened this up to see what is what yet...I am trying to get parts to be ready to put it back together right away when i open it up....Last time I used the OLD STYLE LEATHER INNER Hub AXLE SEAL....Does anyone have the part number for the NEW STYLE INNER SEALS that are made of synthetic rubber material instead of the leather? I am VERY UPSET this is leaking again...the truck flat out is a bear to stop when this is the situation...actually it stops when it finally wants to when there is axle juice on the shoes....when everything is correct it stops really well....*NumberDummy hopefully that is how you do the special call to NumberDummy to get help.....like the BAT SIGNAL

Can a wheel that has a wobble cause axle seals to leak? I remember seeing one of my wheels cant remember where now...but think it was that driver side with that side to side wobble when I ran the truck on jack stands some time ago looking for a vibration that ended up being the rear u joint then...that was the one that ruined the pinion of the 1350 remember that mess?....

 

Bummer... I think the newer style seal might be the answer. I hope you can get a newer one as one that was made 50 years ago could be all dried out from age even though never installed! Kudos to you for using that neat old truck in your business. I know it can be a royal PIA, but it sure is cool!! Keep with it!!

 

Most times what causes axle seals to leak is inner axle pressure. There is a vent on the axle and must be clear of debris.

 

For some reason critters like mud daubers like to set up shop in the vent hose, it is good practice to inspect now and then and make sure the differential is breathing easy.

 

thank you Ill check that out.....still gonna have to pull it all down though so new seals will be needed and new shoes...again...my back and my wallet hates the thought of this!

 

They say to always replace oil soaked shoes but if you have access to a steam cleaner they will clean up very nice. I did it for years on public transportation vehicles (buses).

 

Wouldn't brake cleaner work for that? Or is that crazy talk?

 

If it were brake fluid, there might be some hope of cleaning them up, but gear oil? I doubt it. Brakes would be grabby.

 

Do you mean wobble as the wheel(s) (duals) aren't properly tightened/resting against the hub (spoke wheels) or improperly adjusted wheel bearing(s)?

Your old seal will have a number on it. Take it to a truck parts house and have them upgrade it to a later style.

If you are hand lifting the hub/drum assy to the axle, don't let the hub rest on the spindle until fully seated. Lightly lube seal lip. Check vent. Make sure there is no wear/groove on the spindle where the seal rides.

When you fill the axle assy, be sure all is level.

 

Not to hijack '" Gary's thread" but what is the best way to make sure the vent is not clogged? Gary, sorry to hear of your troubles. When I assembled my truck's rear wheels after redoing all of the bearings, brakes and all the other stuff, to prevent damage from assembling, I did the following: F-750 The rear drum and spoke wheel was very heavy, I believe 140 llbs. I took a heavy duty furniture dolly, put the assembly on it. then with 2 x 4 pieces, raised one spoke at a time to raise it up to axle height. After getting close, I then shimmed it with wooden door shims to make it the perfectly matched height so that I could then simply slide the dolly in and the have the whole assembly go together. There was no fatigue in trying not to damage the components. I will try to look for a picture, but can not remember if I took one. good luck. ( p.s. ) I had used the newer type seals.

 

Truck Dual Wheel Dolly -

 

Are those the B6J-1175-A seals? (4 5/8" OD) Interchanges to an SKF 31307

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1841282

 

Last time I tried reusing the shoes....what happens is there is a fine layer of oil that stays between the steel brake shoe base and where the friction material attaches when the heat of braking occurs the oil comes to the surface again...to keep the shoe and drum from gripping....I did not try steam cleaning as bigwindow suggested but am so gun shy to pull this all apart at all much less for something that is KNOWN as a gamble...I think I made a mistake last time by using the old style leather seals they seemed soft enough etc but this may be a case of the new technology stuff IS better....

 

thanks for the SKF suggestion...I will be looking to use them. I somehow can not find the picture I took of all the parts I used last time...I ALWAYS take a photo of the boxes etc so I will have them as a reference for the part number etc for the NEXT time I have to do something where I have been already.. Unfortunately Im not always good about going back into the picture to detail what the picture IS...and thus the picture software search mechanism cant help find the picture...It maddens me when I dont stay consistent with things like that and now Im paying the price....Ive spent an hour looking for those pictures looking at all pictures I took during that time period...still cant find them...So short answer is I am not sure of what seals are in there...according to a chart I saw here on FTE a few days ago that came up from google search of what seals my 1955 C600 with an Eaton 1350 two speed should have either B6J-1175-A(SKF 31323) OR POSSIBLY if its a "heavy duty" a B6"Q"-1175-A(SKF 34387)......I will go across town with a pair of calipers and measure the spare bango I happen to have to verify the seal surface size....so I have the parts before I tear into this thing....

 

What did you say the Ford number was on that seal that you used?

I work in the industry for an automotive bearing manufacturer here in the US..... that builds bearings in the US.
The vast majority of automotive seal applications are made (pretty much) in Taiwan and Korea. (There are some really high-end components,like a Gear Vendors extension seal, which are basically GM Turbo 400 seals on steroids and made on the space station, that are USA but
they are the exception these days)

An average nitrile seal is going to exceed the longevity and performance of rawhide.....