The seal that interchanges with B6Q-1175-A is a Timken 455858.
Don't know which manufacturer's product is actually in that box, but it will be a nitrile seal.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1119576&jsn=3

 

The wobble I am mentioning is from a distorted wheel there is side to side movement if you look at the tread while it is moving....I remember there is about an inch worth of side to side scrub...The wheels are of course tight against the hub no issue there. The there is no wheel bounce only the side to side ....I will have to see what movement there is or isnt in the bearing once I finally pull all this apart again. I would hope they were adjusted correctly. Certainly something went wrong so nothing will be left alone and everything will be checked and rechecked in fact at this point I will call my friend who repaired fire apparatus for the City of San Diego to come and review my work. This particular brake assembly allows the rear hub to separate from the weighty drum by removing three screws. Doing so makes the placing the hub back on the axle tube manageable. I will again look at the axle tube spindle where the seal rides to verify it does not have any groove or wear. I remember each time how nice that area looked...but I will look again for sure. I will make sure the niaprine grease seals I just purchased...(I ordered both possible choices to insure I have the correct one available).are properly lightly lubed along with packing the wheel bearings that sit in those hubs. I ordered both possible seal sizes for an Eaton 1350 because I am NOT sure which one it needs and I am not looking to have the down time for this truck to exceed the day I decide to go in there to handle it.
I am a former tire store owner and had worked in tire stores for about 10 years so I have put lots of tires on vehicles. Im pretty good with using pry bars to position heavy wheel and tire assemblies so they mostly fall into place onto the wheel studs without using my muscles....the worst part is crouching and bending getting up and down and positioning oneself on one's knees...a good pair of knee pads will be used...again..What I most dread is wielding the 3/4 inch torque wrench to tighten the five inner stud nuts to 475 ft lbs and 460 ft lbs for the 5 outer wheel nuts .This requires muscle and making sure I have the torque wrench positioned so it can mostly rest on both the lug nut and a floor jack or jack stand so I can pull those big ft lbs...At least I now can once again use a one inch Milwaukee cordless gun that makes it a lot nicer to remove and replace those nuts.The first time I went in there one was not on the market yet so I did all the removal by hand with a 1 inch breaker bar and a jack handle...That 2nd time in there with that new gun was way nicer...I have never considered the vent prior so that will be looked at..I will verify the oil is at the correct level...this requires driving the vehicle and then rechecking. I.Originally I went into the brakes to deal with a leaking wheel cylinder...stupidly I did NOT replace the axle seal that 1st tear down and repair...Of course after all of that was disturbed the axle seal leaked. That forced me to go back in there and replaced it. I used a new rawhide seal when I did that. It seemed like it was supple enough.... I also did the other rear at that time(both wheel cylinders AND the axle seal) and it(the RR) seems to still be holding. ...All of this was done.maybe some 4000 miles ago now...so this will be the third time into that driver side rear brake ... 3rd time since May the charm?

 

I dont know what the part number is yet. SOMEWHERE I have pictures of the seals and the boxes they came in from my last attempt but I havent been able to find those pictures. Ive ordered BOTH aftermarket neoprene part number options possible for the Eaton, Ford part number B6J-1175-A ordering its aftermarket equivalent in neoprene SKF31323 and Ford# B6Q-1175-A and ordered its neoprene replacement from SKF skf 34387.
I am sure there are multiple problems with my previous work. I never checked the vent tube it may had become plugged. I may have overfilled the gear oil. I had the rear hub off and back on a couple of times with that new rear rawhide seal maybe I damaged it doing that...I still have not gone to disassemble this so I have yet to verify my adjustment on the bearings/hub were done correctly...I remember looking for grooves in the axle spindle tube where the bearings and seal sit and didnt see any...but I did not verify that it isnt worn too much...I will have to break out a micrometer this time around to make sure there isnt too much wear..I wonder why this wear would show up only since I have been in there...no its likely there is too much wear... I did something incorrect...lots of doubt exists because the darn thing is leaking....again.


Rear Wheel Axle Seal Chart with Ford part numbers and other information

 

Jim, my system allows me to seperate the hub from the very heavy drum by removing the three screws holding the drum to the hub. Once the drum is removed, the hub is pretty manageable. Once the hub is positioned and tightened back up the drum slides one relatively easily once it is set on the hub...the very heavy tire and wheel can be put on by using pry bars there really is no pressure on the components its a matter of inching things into place using leverage...all of this is NOT the problem THE PROBLEM is TORQUING all of the inner wheel lug stud/nut assemblies and the outer lug nuts...almost 500 ft lbs is no joke and my body doesnt like THAT. BTW good question on how to verify or make sure the vent is clear...I didnt even think to ask what or how to do that....its not like Im going to have the carrier out....again...that happened two years ago...I have been far too intimate with this rear end....lol.

 

I just looked at a saved photo of your truck. It has disc wheels, my mistake.

Are you planning on replacing the bent wheel(s)? You are going to get some weird tire wear.

 

You never mentioned that you replaced the bearings and races? My vote is there is some movement against the seal from worn bearings. The bent wheels need replaced too.. The seal would work if what it was sealing against ran true..

 

yes I will be addressing the wheels at the end of the year in December I will have the centers removed from the current 20 inch tube type rim.. The centers will be fabricated into new 22.5 tubeless rim blanks like the fronts have already been done. New tires for the rear to match the front will also be happening to accommodate the new size of rim. So yes the wheels will be handled. it takes about 3 weeks to do all of that AND a nice chunk of cash.

 

The bearings sure looked good no wear pattern on the rollers the cages seem correct...the races looked typical. Something is wrong though or it wouldnt be leaking...I may have put too much gear oil in the thing back then...I will be very careful to fill it to the correct level then go drive it and recheck this time rather than overfill it and hope to see the correct level after a road test...like I did prior. .The wheel allows the tire tread to scrub a half inch out then a half inch in .About an inch total scrub. It has done that for the entire time Ive owned the truck now.. Prior to the wheel cylinder repair there was not an axle seal leak I drove the truck for two years with everything for the brakes working as designed...and actually working very well...Not as good for braking as a modern truck of course but it did stop very well...I have only had that nice feeling for a short time again..Last time the axle seal failed it had not gotten bad enough to leak outside the drum yet it had just soaked the shoes...Since I had just been in there replacing the wheel cylinders and brakes...I did NOT consider there would be a problem back there but I was having a lot of trouble stopping the truck..Back then I focused on fixing the fronts and dealing with a failed hydrovac which also went south during that period...Too many related failures at one time happened back then it was really hard to put a finger on what was going on...I did not consider I was going to have to touch EVERY part to get a handle on what was going on..Then mercifully the axle fluid leak got bad enough to show on the backing plate and the final reason why it wasnt stopping well was determined....I was chasing my tail looking for why it wasnt stopping during that period back in May... That SAME I dont want to stop feeling has come back and there is a clear right away leak at this left rear...

 

If your 1350 Eaton axle is like the '52 and earlier 1350 Eaton and Timken axles, there should be a sheet steel cone that is bolted to the backing plate that the hub fits inside of when assembled. This cone collects oil that leaks past the seal and drains it to the outside thru a hole in the flange that the backing plate and cone bolts to. If the drain is open you should not get any oil on the brakes if the seal leaks. The leather seal should hold oil fine as long as it is not damaged when installing the hub, the seal race on the spindle is not deeply grooved, and if the differential vent is able to breathe. My Eaton service manual says to fill the differential thru the fill hole in the back cover until it drips out of the hole. Then, to install the back cover plug and add 1 more pint of oil thru the fill hole in the top of the differential.
Mark

 

Mytoolman- what a journey you've been on.

I've read with interest as I have a 1963 B500 with a leaking axle seal (among many other brake issues). According to the master parts catalog I need B6J-1175 axle seals. Did the interchange SKF 31323 seals work for you?

I'm chasing ALL brake parts now...vacuum booster, master cylinder, all six wheel cylinders (four in the rear), steel brake lines and since my rear brake pads (near new) were oil soaked those will be replaced as well. Any advice on my parts search would be welcome.

I hope your truck is up and running...and stopping. Good luck in the future.