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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

2004 f250 help

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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 09:15 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
The way this thread is going it's going to be herding cats.

Batteries tests at 800 for 5 seconds?????? What kind of tester? They can be fine or bad. Is there a date code on them? Letter and number.

With temperatures like that, have you added any diesel anti-gel? K100 is not anti-gel and IMO not needed. And don't run out and put a gallon of anti-gel in if you haven't, just what the bottle says. Some of what you are describing can be from the fuel gelling up.

You said the fuel gauge was bouncing when running rough. Is that the fuel tank level in the cluster or does this modified truck have a fuel pressure gauge in it?

You have to get the right oil filter cap and a Motorcraft filter, and when you do the oil change in temperatures like this you need a 5w-40 synthetic.

The trans temp sensor is not going to cure shifting.

You've got an injector issue, which can cause rough idle and poor performance. And if an injector in a diesel goes real bad, it can ruin a motor in a few miles.

its an older tester with heating coils shows 800 cca and sits there each test I held for 3-5 seconds. batteries are old. about 10 years old they will get changed either today or tomorrow.

I have no added any anti gelling additives. honestly thought we were past all this 0 degree weather. I guess I figured the truck kept the fuel warm as well.. this would definitely explain why it only does it when its cold outside and on long trips.

fuel tank level drops to empty does not return until the truck is restarted. gauge in the dash.

currently working on getting some better gauges to monitor things a bit closer and accurately I do not like the gauges on the bulldog pos tuner.

kinda thinking sct tuner with a good obd monitoring syetm on my phone I ought to be able to watch things very closely and not clutter my truck up with gauge pods

oil got drained out and changed to 5-40 rotella. I used the 15/40 to get me home and to Walmart the next day. replaced cap, filter, and oil. again....

I don't think its going to cure it but I do wonder if a fluid flush would help.. trans needs to hold up long enough that I can install the manual convertion im hoping to also get in tenesee.

im going to search on here for injector testing if that's even something I can do. ive run a buzz test and got a buzz from each injector I believe but doing it by myself in a loud environment made this hard to do. going to re try test.


 
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 09:39 AM
  #32  
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At 10 years, change is good.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2020 | 09:41 AM
  #33  
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aha yes change is very good. im blown away though for Walmart everstart maxes to last this long???? lol blows me away they lasted that long. we all called them neverstarts forever
 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 04:51 PM
  #34  
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Changed the batteries voltage still at 13.2 on bulky dog tuner., new fuel filters as they were horrendous, did a bunch of wire inspections and found nothing, had confirmation injectors were in fact done about a year ago with glow plugs and new harnesses at a reputable shop, did a bunch of testing with the soluce but can not replicate my issue unless I manually shut injectors off one by one.

did find plug on transmission harness to be broke and zip tied to my transmission. Would this cause a shift issue? Obviously it’s a good place to start for the gauge dropping randomly..

What’s next? Do I just have premature injector failure from poor maintenance?

also I have some leaks from these areas



This little blue hose Down there. Will that cause an oil leak of some sort? I always seem to have oil or something all over the hot side blues turbo connector.






Would this cause tough shifting and a random temp gauge


 
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 04:57 PM
  #35  
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Aftermarket injectors, diesel in the oil, "crudded-up" fuel filters (ie low pressure) ...... sounds like the potential of injector issues is high.

The blue hose is the EGR cooler hose. It has been known to leak (the original orange hose was bad about leaking).
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 11:19 AM
  #36  
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I seem to have maybe solved my running issue.. somewhat..

gotta wait an see if problem comes back again.

Now onto the transmission.

I have a harsh 1-2 shift harsh 2-3 shift and it kinda slips into 4th from 3rd. Does it really bad the first couple times it shifts then acts like it gets better the longer you drive. But everytime you go to park it starts over again really harsh and gets better as you drive.

ive checked fluid it looks clean, I’ve checked level it appears good, I’ve checked trans codes and find nothing. The slipping started after I replaced the batteries. They were out for pretty much the whole day while I checked it out and did other work.

pictures above of that plug will that cause these issues? I have no codes except for the trans temp sensor high resistance.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 12:21 PM
  #37  
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Transmission is going through its relearn after having the batteries out I believe. It should continue to improve after more drive cycles.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 12:56 PM
  #38  
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Okay I’ll give it some time and see if it improves.

 
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Old Mar 19, 2020 | 09:05 PM
  #39  
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An attempt to help someone else..

ed sold me injectors, ficm, tunes, tuner, fass fuel system, regulated return, and 6.4 oil filter w/ fuel bowl delete.

while I’m in here I ordered ford oem stand plugs and dummy pipes, valve cover gaskets, hhc nipple cup set w/ o rings and tool, xdp deisel has a decent looking intercooler piping set I would like to go with because mine just cracked upon removing, blue hose as well as the corresponding gaskets,

I did ball joints, front rotors/pads., now I am waiting on calipers so I can finish the brake job all the way around, a new set of cooper tires, I’m going to adjust the steering box because it seems a little loose, and lastly would be shocks.

the only thing I’m lacking after all this is going to be the transmission... really looking to find a zf6 swap. I bought this truck for intentions of it becoming a stick shift. I went from a 2013 to a 2004 just so I would be able to perform this swap. Trans definitely needs some attention though, I had found a broken ground under the truck and added several ground throughout. This helped a lot of issues but didn’t not solve everything.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2020 | 09:06 PM
  #40  
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Old Mar 19, 2020 | 09:08 PM
  #41  
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She’s all clean and pretty.. for now.. gotta love New York

random all cylinder misfire code came in about a week ago.. that’s a new one.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2020 | 12:35 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Brywink04
She’s all clean and pretty.. for now.. gotta love New York

random all cylinder misfire code came in about a week ago.. that’s a new one.
Trucks looking really good. Always liked the look of the two-tone Super Dutys.

Just curious, you mentioned being in New York. How did the registration of the truck go? I ask because I've got a friend in NY state that's heavily considering buying a 6.0 F350. He's a bit confused and concerned since NY requires any pickup with an unladen weight of 6,000 lbs or more to be registered as commercial even if it's only for non-commercial driving. If I'm not mistaken, the F150 is just barely below the limit, so an F350 is going to definitely exceed the 6k lb limit. He commutes and uses the Parkway daily so being prohibited from driving on it is a deal-breaker for him. I've also heard rumors that parking in the city is a tangled mess of tickets if you're registered as commercial (because of weight) and don't have signage. A bit of a quagmire, if I do say so myself.
Sorry for hijacking the thread but just figured I'd ask seeing as you're in NY.
https://dmv.ny.gov/registration/regi...-class-vehicle
https://dmv.ny.gov/forms/mv114.pdf
 
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Old Mar 20, 2020 | 09:19 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Steve56
Trucks looking really good. Always liked the look of the two-tone Super Dutys.

Just curious, you mentioned being in New York. How did the registration of the truck go? I ask because I've got a friend in NY state that's heavily considering buying a 6.0 F350. He's a bit confused and concerned since NY requires any pickup with an unladen weight of 6,000 lbs or more to be registered as commercial even if it's only for non-commercial driving. If I'm not mistaken, the F150 is just barely below the limit, so an F350 is going to definitely exceed the 6k lb limit. He commutes and uses the Parkway daily so being prohibited from driving on it is a deal-breaker for him. I've also heard rumors that parking in the city is a tangled mess of tickets if you're registered as commercial (because of weight) and don't have signage. A bit of a quagmire, if I do say so myself.
Sorry for hijacking the thread but just figured I'd ask seeing as you're in NY.
https://dmv.ny.gov/registration/regi...-class-vehicle
https://dmv.ny.gov/forms/mv114.pdf
not a problem. Where I live i don’t worry about traffic and cars or parking. But when I go to town and run chores or whatever need be it is always hard to park. I’ve never had a ticket issue or none of that but my height makes it hard to fit into parking garages and the length doesn’t help either..

my trucks registered at 7800 pounds.

it is registered with commercial plates and commercial reg.

but!! Because of this and your truck being so heavy with commercial plates.. guess what. Now it doesn’t need to pass and Emmissions test like your Jetta would.

hopefully this helps
 
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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 09:52 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Brywink04
fuel guage has randomly started dropping and coming back up... ugh..
The loss of power and the shuttering you spoke about in your original post sounds very similar to my fuel pump failure a few months back. When i first noticed an issue, the truck would become very sluggish while driving down the highway, wouldn't rev over 2,500 rpms. Truck would run like this for 5 minutes and then back to normal for a while, then would do it again. I ignored it for about a month, then one day it did the same thing again but this time was much worse, very low power and when my TC would lock up the truck would shake/shutter very aggressively. The truck eventually died on the side of the road, finally got it to fire up again after taking a hammer to my fuel pump, I managed to get 30 feet from the driveway and truck died again and refused to start. When I got it towed to the shop it had 0 fuel pressure. I thought for sure I would have some injector issues after driving the truck home like that but its still running strong after a new fuel pump! Hope this helps!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 05:15 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Risling_04PSD
The loss of power and the shuttering you spoke about in your original post sounds very similar to my fuel pump failure a few months back. When i first noticed an issue, the truck would become very sluggish while driving down the highway, wouldn't rev over 2,500 rpms. Truck would run like this for 5 minutes and then back to normal for a while, then would do it again. I ignored it for about a month, then one day it did the same thing again but this time was much worse, very low power and when my TC would lock up the truck would shake/shutter very aggressively. The truck eventually died on the side of the road, finally got it to fire up again after taking a hammer to my fuel pump, I managed to get 30 feet from the driveway and truck died again and refused to start. When I got it towed to the shop it had 0 fuel pressure. I thought for sure I would have some injector issues after driving the truck home like that but its still running strong after a new fuel pump! Hope this helps!
interesting. I never loose fuel pressure thoug. I have a gauge I monitor regularly and never see a drop in fuel pressure.
56-57 at idle and 54-56 psi cruising at 55-60
 
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