It is so hard to say about the FICM. It seemed to me that the voltages were marginal and that is why I was suspecting the FICM.

You have a #3 injector code. That could be a FICM issue, an injector issue, or even a high pressure oil issue. You could even have a tuner issue.

Have you done the oil change and have you changed the filter cap? What oil are you going with and how cold is it there?

It seemed to me that the voltages were marginal and that is why I was suspecting the FICM. Since you have a FICM that has the voltage modified, I am not sure that FICMrepair.com would even take it to check. My idea was to have them test it... they are honest and wouldn't try to sell you something you didn't need.

 

I have spoke to another guy (who referred me to post here) who has an excursion he told me to speak with them as well. I did change the oil.. but I reused the cap and filter because it’s 11:30pm now here and I have no way to find a Cap and filter.. I put 15-40w deisel in the truck. And this is temporary because I am not putting rotella in the truck just to dump it when I get oem housing and cap. It is rarely cold. Somedays it’s almost 50°f, getting to lows of 5-10°f. I know I know wrong oil. Block heater will stay plugged in when truck is not being drove. Keep the oil somewhat warm. I will use rotella t6 when I change it. As well as dex merc
for the trans when I do filters, temp sensor, and fluid flush.

one thing I noticed. Just in front of the turbo, there is a small triangle block that has an aluminum pipe connected to it. There is what appear to be another coolant line that goes to it as well. It is just behind the block of plate on top of the motor in front of the turbo. This appears to be leaking slightly, the hose connections appear fine what what am I looking at so I can order gaskets. I need to do a coolant flush and get the green coolant out, and lastly how bad of a job is the valve covers? What should be replaced while doing that job. I am very mechanically inclined, I’m just a little behind with deisel tech, as well as I recently has shoulder surgery and can’t really do much with my left arm..

this ol girl is going to Tennessee In a month or two from New York. About 12 1/2 hours. Gotta make sure I make it there and back

 

Sorry I can't comment on the valve covers. The block heater works pretty well. I don't think you will benefit from leaving it plugged in all the time at your temperatures. Your electric bill might not like that. Normally a few hours before you plan to drive is enough to get the oil temp up. You can experiment with that. Also, you do not have to dump any oil to change the filter and cap. If you have the tall cap and an oem filter you are not filtering the oil ,however, and I personally would not drive like that. Thats just me. In my opinion,15w40 for your trip in a couple months will be fine. I would get some use out of that oil. My 2cents. Good luck getting her running well.

 

After looking I believe it’s a stock housing. Going to compare to the new housing when it arrives. I drive a lot of miles and frankly don’t like the idea of parts being hard to find or get if the worst happens. I know I don’t have to drain the oil for a filter change, but the oil I put in was really dirty. And the filter smelled of diesel fuel. I want to flush it a couple times to just see if it cleans the fuel out. If not I’m sure the o-rings around the injectors will need attention.

 

Was it idled a lot? That diesel in the oil could be from that...you better hope it’s from that and not compromised injector o rings.

 

the guy I got it from had it taken off the road it was started and let run but never drove. And it has idled a lot to get up to temp I’ve started to leave it to 10-15 min max. Idling seems to be the cause of most of the issues i have to be honest. For example yesterday I drove about an hour at 55mph, I got home ran inside and grabbed some stuff but I left the truck running. I was in the house for maybe 10-15 minutes. When I came out the truck was hardly idling at 500 rpm and had absolutely no power at all. Two miles down the road and it’s running fine except has a rough idle.

 

I’ve put a couple hundred miles on it after clearing codes and running it in stock tune.

first thing I noticed is egr codes came back immediately, so did ficm performance. I’m going to assume that’s from the work done to the truck and the egr delete. But my cylinder 3 contribution code took awhile to come back. But when it did come back my rough idle started, it started bucking cruising at 50-60mph. And you could hear in the exhaust tome that it wasn’t quite happy. Get the Rpms up and it would clear out. Drive for a few more miles and it would act like it was loading up on a couple cylinders.. this comes and goes but only does it when hot after a long period of driving. So to me I’m thinking I have a fuel issue and it’s getting to much when hot.

is this a sign of bad injector o-rings and high pressure oil system? Is there a way I can check that without just replacing the o-ring kits. I’ll be doing valve cover gaskets, and still trying to figure out what the little box is that’s leaking

 

There’s nothing to be scared about changing injector o rings. $40 for peace of mind and just fo it while you’re in that far. Keep the area clean, don’t be dropping things in the engine and don’t let debris get in there. Clean the injector cups with an injector brush and use a flashlight and little inspection mirror to look down in the cups to make sure they are clean. Push new coppers on the nozzles with a deep 8mm socket and torque the Torx injector hold downs to spec. If the nipple cups are tight leave them alone or if you have the coin replace them with the HHC nipple cup kit or at least reseal with Motorcraft o rings.

 

okay, I’ll probably just go ahead and get it ordered then.

on order now

oem trans temp sensor,
oem icp just because it’s easy and cheap enough
2 ford oem filters for trans as well as inline filter in frame rail
dex merc trans fluid
Oem Fuel filters (this is gunna be fun)
And currently reading reviews on the best o-ring kit to use for injectors but will probably end up going oem as well.

I think while I’m at it, I’m going to move injector 3 to another spot. See if my code follows the injector or the wiring.
batteries (there 10 years old, but did pass Load test. Still gunna change them out before trip)

im hearing about a j-pipe being the name of the little triangle box with the aluminum pipe coming off it and it has about a 1” coupler on it to another hose that goes behind the motor.

after this I’ll be able to focus on getting the brakes done, shocks, and a new set of sneakers for her. I’m excited to have this truck in top shape. Even though I’m learning a lot of this truck man does it suck working on your vehicles all the time lol

Ive run the wrangler duratracs for years on my other trucks 60,000 miles they would last five or take on what I hauled and how often. But how do they hold up to the weight of the super duty? The tires in it were installed 5,000 miles ago and have no tread.

 

I recommend Motorcraft injector kits, some guys use the Alliant kits. I like Motorcraft when I can on stock parts and filters.
I drive rough, nasty roads and over 1200 miles a week with my F-250 for the last 8 years and my Excursion for over 3 years and found the best tires are Cooper STT Maxx and STT Pros. I have had 4 sets on my work truck and beat them hard with my 6.7 and my new 6.2 F-250. STT Pros on my Excursion and they are wearing perfectly and very little tread loss for a heavy truck.

 

 

I’ll check them out, not to many tires out there that are 35x12.50r20... really want to go back to a stock rim lol

 

Both of these tires come in that size, I just checked. You’ll love them, the STT Pro looks aggressive but it’s much quieter than you’d think and has excellent wet and mud traction, the wear is fantastic and the sidewall is supportive. I drive 85-90 a lot and they handle it like a 9800# sports car.

 

about 0° today here in New York.

I drive the truck about 100 miles today. Got into the city stop go traffic and it started doing the bucking really bad.. no rpm change just the truck rocking back and fourth. Shut the truck off and restart it. Seems better. Put truck In drive and it gets really really bad. Push the gas and doesn’t have any power to move. Feather the gas and all ova sudden it’s got power again but is super weak and shaking miserably.

got a new code though!! Not that I should be excited.

cam position sensor Range/performance p0341....

but this all cleared up once I was able to get the truck into a clear stretch of road and drive it consistently for a little while. But as soon as the truck would start to idle it would get worse and worse, bucking harder and harder, turbo whistle going up and down, exhaust loping like it has a really huge cam or big lope tune or something. Truck runs the same in all the tunes even stock.

could cam sensor cause this? And if it was the issue why is it just now throwing this code. Also, still no check engine light!!

not sure if any of this means anything either.

battery voltage 13.2 on tuner
Fuel gauge dropped to below empty (it has about 3/4 tank) fuel light came on. Truck got significantly worse when this happened.

when I restarted the truck the fuel gauge worked for a little bit, then when I put the truck into drive and it started bucking again the fuel gauge dropped.

trans temp gauge doesn’t work. Lights up and comes in when you first start the truck. Within a couple minutes trans shows up to temp but tuner shows it’s still at outside temp. Gauge will then start creeping up till it finally drops and the back light for “trans temp” goes out. As well as “check gauge” and flashing tow/haul starts. This is usually follows by the first few 1-2-3-4 shifts being extremely harsh or a huge hesitation when shifting. Codes for trans are for high resistant in temp sensor a

im hoping the trans temp sensor when it gets here takes care of the shifting and gauge issues. As well as a fluid flush and filter change.

I did mix some k100 into the fuel system. Our local diesel stations have seemed to had a lot of water in it. Going to start using truck stops I guess.

really any input will help at this point. 2 months till I leave for Tennessee.. really don’t want to get stranded 14 hours from home...

thanks in advance.

 

The way this thread is going it's going to be herding cats.

Batteries tests at 800 for 5 seconds?????? What kind of tester? They can be fine or bad. Is there a date code on them? Letter and number.

With temperatures like that, have you added any diesel anti-gel? K100 is not anti-gel and IMO not needed. And don't run out and put a gallon of anti-gel in if you haven't, just what the bottle says. Some of what you are describing can be from the fuel gelling up.

You said the fuel gauge was bouncing when running rough. Is that the fuel tank level in the cluster or does this modified truck have a fuel pressure gauge in it?

You have to get the right oil filter cap and a Motorcraft filter, and when you do the oil change in temperatures like this you need a 5w-40 synthetic.

The trans temp sensor is not going to cure shifting.

You've got an injector issue, which can cause rough idle and poor performance. And if an injector in a diesel goes real bad, it can ruin a motor in a few miles.