When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Nope, oil is the right thing to use. My response was to someone who suggested using grease which is ill advised. On engines with horizontal mounting bases I don't even oil the filter gasket, the sealing surface is covered in oil so the gasket gets oiled as it touches down.
Prefill filter (aprox 2 quart), wipe surface of filter housing clean, dab and smear clean oil on filter gasket surface, install hand tight, wrench tight 3/4 turn more. No issues!
Prefill filter (aprox 2 quart), wipe surface of filter housing clean, dab and smear clean oil on filter gasket surface, install hand tight, wrench tight 3/4 turn more. No issues!
My MC filters ALWAYS start leaking at about 7-8k miles (yes, I have a bypass filtration system and run extended OCI's). Re-snug it, and then be prepared to have to continue re-snugging it about every 1-2k miles until it is changed. Has always been like that when I run MC filters.
anyone tried wix or baldwin filters instead with success? Kind of irritating, and i remember not having this problem when i was running mc filters on my 7.3's from 2001-2006
I switched to K&N filters with the 1" nut welded on the end of them a few years ago. I now run these in all of my vehicles (except for the John Deere) and prefer them over any other brand and style of oil filter. They are a bit pricier than traditional filters, but with a military discount at Advance Auto, regularly running online 20-25% off discounts at the online parts stores or just getting them on sale from Amazon they are cheaper than what I would spend otherwise.
The convenience of the nut welded on the end is very appealing for me and makes changing oil even quicker. I also install Fumoto drain valves on our vehicles so when I crawl or reach under one, all I need is a 1" open end wrench or a 1" socket wrench. Done...
Dang, I use the motorcraft filters hand tight with a little oil on o-ring and have never had a problem in 90 oil changes. Dang x2, that is $6300 in oil changes?
Dang, I use the motorcraft filters hand tight with a little oil on o-ring and have never had a problem in 90 oil changes. Dang x2, that is $6300 in oil changes?
I'm not a fan of over changing the oil for that reason. High end stuff like Amsoil or Schaeffers can go 10k easily and sometimes way farther than that under certain conditions. Figure $150 for an oil and filter change if you do it yourself every 10k and that's $3000 in oil changes over 200k miles.
Here is an 18,000 mile interval that included a lot more cold weather idling at night to stay warm than previous reports, so I assume that accounts for the added bearing wear. Otherwise all highway and about half of it towing RV trailers of various sizes. This was a little longer than I'd prefer...15,000 in OTR use is about the sweet spot IMO since it coincides conveniently with a fuel filter change. I use the big blue Donaldson filter which holds about an extra 1-1.5 quarts over the Motorcraft filter so that helps a little.
I pre fill filter some what as well.. (thats the way my grandpa did it and he had a lot of ICE equipment to deal with) not full but i fill it up and let it soak into the filter media then add to almost top and it settles down to like 1/2 full.. when full that B is heavy in one hand laying on your back on the ground.. I use the fumto valve as well and it the deal.. I use old oil gallons and just refill them to take and dump at local autozone, advance auto etc.. best of both worlds.
One question on the black stone report of 18K miles.. is the 99 engine have the same HEUI injectors as the 2000 -03 engines.??. When i go over 5K to like 7K i start to hear a pronounced ticking in the injectors and some times at idle it get quite loud.
Originally Posted by countrycar
I didn't mean any disrespect Bob, just joking around is all.
