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Bent the frame

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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 07:53 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Superduty450
Trying to figure out what the diminished value would be. Truck will be done in 2 weeks, new frame arrived on Monday
That is not an unreasonable timeframe to complete the repair at all.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 08:02 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Superduty450
What all should be replaced when doing a frame swap? Whatever other items that require immediate attention that are noticed during the repair when the cab and box are separated from the frame. Should all the self locking nuts be replaced also? By the book, ALL cab-to-frame fasteners are to be replaced but I've never had any issue reusing the fasteners. I would personally replace the ones that are found to be eroded during removal. Cab mounts also Only if the truck has high mileage and they are found to be deteriorated.
Answers to questions above written in bold strong red font.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 08:32 AM
  #48  
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OP you can always purchase parts like cab mounts if you think you want to replace them. Give them to the repair guy and I am sure he will install them. Insurance doesn't want to buy to many parts just because they may be a little old and still usable. I would talk to the repair guy and let him know if he sees something that needs to be replaced down the road and would be prudent to fix while it's apart than now is the time to fix them. Hoses fuel lines and vacuum hoses also.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 11:50 AM
  #49  
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Following along. I have yet to see an insurance company replace a frame in lieu of totaling it. I really hope it works out well for you. I'd trade it, yes, but that's me having been through something similar some years back. It ended up costing Progressive more in the long run because I got the Insurance Commission involved when they did shoddy work and expected me to be happy with it. I told the insurance adjuster in the end..."yep, should have replaced it to begin with rather than trying to rip me off and take advantage".
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 02:04 PM
  #50  
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When looking up torque values for some members, I have noticed many items that require a certain torque says to discard old items and use new bolts and nuts. One area was the rear spring shackles. Will the insurance go for new bolts and nuts, probably not.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2020 | 11:35 AM
  #51  
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When they did my oil leak they replaced every nut and bolt. Then they sent them back to Ford because its under warranty. Lots of one time bolts and nuts now days in these trucks. Even the drive shaft bolts were replaced.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2020 | 02:40 PM
  #52  
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Make sure they put the cost of that hitch in there also. If the hitch would not have bent the frame would be worse, the energy has to be dissapated somewhere or absorbed. If that was a 5mph dead stop then how heavy was the trailer? Glad you didnt get hurt. I have done a full frame swap on a one ton and it is not a simple task as was stated you have to be very careful not to miss anything. I would rather do a semi any day. Cj
 
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Old Feb 1, 2020 | 02:42 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Just Strokin
When looking up torque values for some members, I have noticed many items that require a certain torque says to discard old items and use new bolts and nuts. One area was the rear spring shackles. Will the insurance go for new bolts and nuts, probably not.
if it is a torque to yield fastener they MUST be replaced. The ins co has no choice. Cj
 
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 10:06 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by CJONE
Make sure they put the cost of that hitch in there also. If the hitch would not have bent the frame would be worse, the energy has to be dissapated somewhere or absorbed. If that was a 5mph dead stop then how heavy was the trailer? Glad you didnt get hurt. I have done a full frame swap on a one ton and it is not a simple task as was stated you have to be very careful not to miss anything. I would rather do a semi any day. Cj
The trailer is 19K and they have paid for a new hitch, got a Hensley BD5, no more adapter plate
 
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 10:13 AM
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Was there any damage to the trailer?

I recall seeing that the Super duty brake controller won't engage below about 5 MPH. It seems that could have contributed to the accident, forcing the truck to take on all the braking.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 10:18 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by HRTKD
Was there any damage to the trailer?

I recall seeing that the Super duty brake controller won't engage below about 5 MPH. It seems that could have contributed to the accident, forcing the truck to take on all the braking.
I'm not sure about automatically but manually mine work even at a stand still.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 10:25 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Tim Young
I'm not sure about automatically but manually mine work even at a stand still.
Pulling the lever always works. Here is the relevant section from the 2017 Owner's Manual:

The trailer brake controller is equipped
with a feature that reduces output at
vehicle speeds below 11 mph (18 km/h)
so trailer and vehicle braking is not jerky
or harsh. This feature is only active
when applying the brakes using your
vehicle's brake pedal, not the
controller.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 10:34 AM
  #58  
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OK got it. Your probably right then. If the trailer breaks would have worked there's a good chance there wouldn't have been as much damage.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 12:26 PM
  #59  
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99.5% of the time I grab the manual controller when stopping quickly but for some reason this time I didn't. Now where to get rid of a truck with a new frame, hopefully it does not show up on carfax.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 02:57 PM
  #60  
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I don't know if there is a lag between repair and it showing up on CarFax. If there is a lag and you plan to sell it, I wouldn't wait. The appearance of a repair on CarFax seems to depend on the facility.
 
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