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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Differential Disaster

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Old Jan 23, 2020 | 04:41 PM
  #31  
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I have also been into a 9 inch rearend one time, and I had to swap the carrier out, the holes in it were not big enough for the 31 spline axles. The carriers measured out the same, and I was going to put it back in the same casting. So I made an assumption. I assumed the shims they had would work if I just put them back in the same spots they were found in. I did that, and it worked fine, no noise or anything.

We know one side of your carrier bearing set is good and still has the shims. I am thinking if you replace that bearing and put the shims back in their original spot (or just re-use the old bearing with the shims already behind it) and then set the preload to what you think it should be, that should shove everything over against the original good side, and you would think it would be close to it's original spot. A quick check of the pattern and back lash should confirm if it's in the ballpark and then just go for it. I would try to take a rag and a long rod or something and wipe out the axle housings to get more of that metal mush out of there.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 03:50 PM
  #32  
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Well, as if the thread title wasn't accurate enough.
I was just minding my business, setting the carrier preload, got everything where I wanted it to be, had about 12 thou backlash, and was content. I press the old bearings off, the new ones off and...

It doesn't fit in the case anymore...

I look down at the bearing and read that dang name: Timken.

The old bearings were Koyo... so I press the new ones off, break one in the process, almost take my head off with parts flying off the press and call it a day.

I found a website that sells the Koyo bearings that I need. They are located in the UK so it might take a while for them to get here, but I really do not want to mess with the shims to set the backlash with the new timken bearings. Not that I can anymore anyway.

Just a little update from the front.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 05:36 PM
  #33  
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And you just found out why when doing setups and you make setup bearings you have to make sure the setup & then bearings you will use are the same manf.
Thought I posted that in an earlier post?
Dave ----
 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 06:08 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
And you just found out why when doing setups and you make setup bearings you have to make sure the setup & then bearings you will use are the same manf.
Thought I posted that in an earlier post?
Dave ----
You did, and I am a fool for that. I guess you got to learn the hard way to make it stick. The thing is that when I ordered the kit from rock it said Koyo bearings. Never thought to check...

On a different note, I think it has also something to do with the fact that the shot bearing is about 15 thou thinner....

The rollers have worn out so much that they peak out the bottom. I never noticed until I looked at them in despair a minute ago.

I get carried away sometimes when I think I am on a roll and make stupid mistakes. I guess I still have to make some bad experiences in order for me to think once more before I do. lol

Edit: Here is a pciture. Right bearing is the shot one from the side that ground into the housing

 
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Old Jan 24, 2020 | 06:40 PM
  #35  
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Also, I believe that would be the culprit for the loud driving noise. Plus the huge play of course.



 
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 08:21 AM
  #36  
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So if even the new same brand bearings are going to be that much different, what is your plan now? I am still thinking you might be able to put a new same brand bearing on the undamaged side with the original number of shims, and use that as a starting point for where the factory had it. But you will still have to figure the wear on the damaged side and compensate for that with a new bearing. Use the old shims plus the wear compensation shim should put you back in the ballpark. But I guess you really need to pull that bad side bearing on and off to get the preload set right with your homemade shim. Or press it on with the original shims and try to put the homemade shim on the outside of the race, which may not work.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 09:43 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
So if even the new same brand bearings are going to be that much different, what is your plan now? I am still thinking you might be able to put a new same brand bearing on the undamaged side with the original number of shims, and use that as a starting point for where the factory had it. But you will still have to figure the wear on the damaged side and compensate for that with a new bearing. Use the old shims plus the wear compensation shim should put you back in the ballpark. But I guess you really need to pull that bad side bearing on and off to get the preload set right with your homemade shim. Or press it on with the original shims and try to put the homemade shim on the outside of the race, which may not work.
That is what I ended up doing. What happened, was that the bad side bearing wore itself down so much it was thinner overall. The good side was still intact though. So after I ordered a new bearing to replace the one I broke, I pressed on a new bearing on both sides. Then eyeballing the play and added shims under the bad side bearing accordingly.
My mistake was that I did that with the bad bearing initially. Fixed that now and the carrier is back in the housing with some of that glue stuff to hold the bad side race still. Backlash still about 12 thou and a pretty good contact pattern.

I am going to clean everything up, give it a coat of paint and throw it back in the truck and try it out.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 11:50 AM
  #38  
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Final Update:

It runs and is silent. It is quite amazing, the different noises one can hear when the diff is whining away. Most notably the subtle underlying roar of the V8 when you hit the gas.

Thank You for your help. One step closer to being able to drive it this season!
 
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