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Ended up ordering the whole front sending unit assembly with pump from rock Auto, ordered the rear assembly and pump at lmc truck and the 6 port tank selector valve from eBay. Crazy how much that valve costs everywhere.
I can't think of any major differences in wheelbase numbers for the different body styles from 1980 through 1995, through 1998 for the f250hd and f350. Bodies bolt right on through all those years. Frames are basically the same with very minor differences at the front bumper area.
I found the list of tank sizes/applications in my owners manual, @FuzzFace2 had it right. I'll have to figure out what I've got going on sometime when I get a chance. Pretty sure you can move crossmembers around, but haven't found the build threads where guys did the swap since I thought of it last(or I made it all up in my head).
Originally Posted by Sdog
Yeah the rear has been out for quite a while and the front just died, the sending assemblies are also inop so I'm just replacing all of it.
ANOTHER curious question... I have a short attention span and my memory ain't what it used to be.... since you've pulled the pumps and all and have them ready to hand, have you tried running some jumper wires to them from your battery(or Franklin2 is going to say use a battery charger, the old "dumb" kind, because it's got a circuit breaker built in and will save your electronics) just to verify they are toast? Hate to get a brand new set in and find out they don't do anything either because the problem was actually with another component in the system. Then again, no telling how old the old ones were so no harm in replacing, but you could, assuming it was something else, get those parts ordered and minimize down time.... But like I said, just curious. I went back earlier and read your other threads again, not sure I remember them, but I'm left with a feeling the diagnosis never got completed.
CHEERS!
I found the list of tank sizes/applications in my owners manual, @FuzzFace2 had it right. I'll have to figure out what I've got going on sometime when I get a chance. Pretty sure you can move crossmembers around, but haven't found the build threads where guys did the swap since I thought of it last(or I made it all up in my head).
ANOTHER curious question... I have a short attention span and my memory ain't what it used to be.... since you've pulled the pumps and all and have them ready to hand, have you tried running some jumper wires to them from your battery(or Franklin2 is going to say use a battery charger, the old "dumb" kind, because it's got a circuit breaker built in and will save your electronics) just to verify they are toast? Hate to get a brand new set in and find out they don't do anything either because the problem was actually with another component in the system. Then again, no telling how old the old ones were so no harm in replacing, but you could, assuming it was something else, get those parts ordered and minimize down time.... But like I said, just curious. I went back earlier and read your other threads again, not sure I remember them, but I'm left with a feeling the diagnosis never got completed.
CHEERS!
Yeah pumps are both dead, tried them today and yes I had a previous thread where I was having fuel delivery problems but I guess I'm really gonna get it figured out this time haha.
Yeah pumps are both dead, tried them today and yes I had a previous thread where I was having fuel delivery problems but I guess I'm really gonna get it figured out this time haha.
You swapped all the fuses around right? DId you look to see what all wiring the PO may have spliced in?
All right guys so just to report back, I changed both the front and rear sending unit and pump assemblies, cleaned out both of the tanks, and changed the tank selector valve, the truck fires up and runs fine, I drive it back home from the hobby shop. a few hours later i decide to take my dog to the park and suddenly the truck dies on me in the middle of the street. It's like starting then sputtering then dying, no fuel is coming out of the carb again, i check the fuse that controls the carb and electric fuel pumps and its fine but just for the hell of it I threw in a 30 amp fuse as opposed to the oem 15 amp fuse, suddenly the truck runs fine again? So it seems to me that i have some sort of intermittent electrical problem in that circuit that i have no idea how to troubleshoot. Anyone have any ideas?
The inertia switch is typically on the firewall close to the carpet right of center. Will have a reset button. I'd try it first. Relay unless located under the power distribution box should be under hood at firewall near power booster.
*edit*
Yeah, I just got home and checked the EVTM inertia switch is right hand side below heater duct. Relay is left hand side under the hood near the dash.
You should be able to check the pinout on the relay to see if you're getting power through the inertia switch.
Could have been a poor connection in the fuse box. I recommend people use those fuse taps sometimes when trying to add something electrical but they have one bad drawback; They make the fuse fatter and that spreads the contacts in the fuse box. This is ok until you decide to take the fuse tap back out and not use it anymore. Then the fuse blade without the fuse tap is a little loose and doesn't make good contact in the fuse box socket.
