When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking to replace all my brake lines. Looking for recommendations for kits. I have an 80 F-250 4x4, front disk, rear drum, 155” wheelbase, ext cab, power brakes. I have repaired 1 line, but after 40 years I think they served their purpose. Thanks
I will warn you stainless is very hard to work with and these factory lines were installed on the bare frame at the factory. They are very difficult to install with the fuel tank and everything else in the way under there. I always replace the lines with the universal ones you can buy at the store. I like the copper nickel line they sell now. It's very soft and easy to bend, and you can pretty much thread it through along the frame like a piece of stiff wire. You can bend it by hand very easily.
I have done about 6 or 7 different trucks using this method; I use 3 pieces with the proper couplers to the rear axle. I buy one long piece that will fit behind the fuel tank and the ends stick out beyond the tank front and rear so I can deal with tightening the fittings. I then get a shorter piece to get me to the rear axle hose, and a shorter piece to go to the proportioning valve. This is where it gets tricky, they sometimes used oddball sized fittings at the master cylinder and the proportioning valve. I save these fittings and cut the new fitting off the new line, install the old fitting (nut) and then re-flare the line. Sometimes the store will also have brass adapters you can use to make it fit.
I use the universal lines for the rest of the lines also. Always buy the line a little longer than you need, you can put a couple of zig zags in it to take up extra line. And also the factory sometimes went the long way around with lots of sharp bends, 90% of the time you do not need to do all that and the line can be shorter.
Why not buy a roll of nickel / copper line and some fittings and make up the line to size as needed?
You will need a flaring tool but if you did not want to buy one you might be able to rent one.
Could also get a tube / line bender to make nice looking bends.
What I don't like of the SS lines besides being hard to bend you can not use a hand flaring tool and same with cutting if you need shorter but the biggie its a PITA to get the SS fittings to seal.
Dave ----
I agree with these guys, this is how I plan to do mine. Last time I priced it(been awhile) it was cheaper to buy a 50' roll and fittings than it was to get preformed lines.
Do the line need the double flare? Or is single sufficient? What the difficulty of double flare?
It definitely takes a little practice to get a good double flare. The softer copper nickel line does help forming the double flare also. I have found if you use a tubing cutter to cut the line, that sort of "caves in" the end of the line and this helps you start forming the double flare.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.