A/C overhaul

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Jan 16, 2020 | 11:02 AM

RigCity

Thread Starter

Laughing Gas

Joined: Jan 2017

Posts: 1,216

Likes: 94

A/C overhaul

Last summer my A/c was hitting new lows of 43 degrees with the ball valve mod. Currently I have a leak on the low pressure side taking me down to 0 psi and blowing 103. I’m trying to figure out my next move here without taking it in to a shop of course.

Also would like to see the worst case parts list which I think would be
compressor
dryer
orfice tube
condenser

Please let me know if there are other parts that should be replaced when they system is open. Thanks

Jan 16, 2020 | 11:58 AM

Sous

FTE Leadership Emeritus

Joined: May 2014

Posts: 27,348

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From: Lake Hartwell, GA

Don't forget the cost of the refrigerant and oil if needed. If you are doing it yourself, you should also count the cost of a vacuum gauge tool set.

Check your evaporator coil, resistor and fan condition while you are in there.

Jan 16, 2020 | 06:41 PM

FordTruckNoob

FTE Chapter Leader

Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 13,101

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From: Henderson, NV

You will also need a vacuum pump to evacuate the system before refilling it.

Jan 17, 2020 | 09:12 AM

empiretc

Lead Driver

Joined: Dec 2003

Posts: 5,250

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It's a Ford, the only way to get it right is to replace the entire thing:
compressor
dryer
orifice tube
condenser
evaporator

When dealing with old green, all of this was replaced along with all the lines and blower motor, and resistor. You don't want to mess around in South Texas.

Jan 17, 2020 | 10:28 AM

The Brad

Laughing Gas

Joined: Nov 2013

Posts: 868

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From: SoCal

My 1st “overhaul” omitted new hoses and I was back in there a year later with a clogged orifice, despite a thorough flush. You might as well get hoses too.

Jan 17, 2020 | 10:59 PM

kbeefy

Cargo Master

Joined: Aug 2003

Posts: 2,332

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From: Eastern Washington

If the system is empty the next step is performing a leak check. I use Nitrogen, but a case can be made for using shop air. Pressurize it to 150psi and look for leaks. Rubber lines, Condenser, Compressor, service ports and connections are the common spots. Look for oily/dirty spots on the aforementioned items and start there with soapy water in a spray bottle for a leak detector. I also use a stethoscope to listen for leaks.

If you are doing 'Worst case scenario' I would add flexible lines and Evaporator if your keeping the truck. Might as well have 100% new system, right? It will work better and you should get at least another 10 years on the rubber lines.

Jan 18, 2020 | 01:09 AM

pirate4x4_camo

Lead Driver

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 8,259

Likes: 346

From: Northern California

Quote:

Originally Posted by RigCity

reality check, that is your best case scenario as it is assuming the refrigerant leaked out of one of those components, need to find the source of the leak and gix that plus those items and while not a must, seems a bit foolish not to replace lines that are also near the end of their service life while the system is opened or you would end up repeating the process sooner then you like.

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Jan 18, 2020 | 06:34 AM

FordTruckNoob

FTE Chapter Leader

Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 13,101

Likes: 4,714

From: Henderson, NV

@RigCity I agree with the others in that you should do a complete system replacement. I used the following components when I did mine May 2019. They seem to be holding up well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SLKQY74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M48O214/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSB4D2K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A4V78E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B78NDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once you have reassembled the system and completely evacuated it, be sure to use a scale to weigh how much refrigerant you put back in. The correct amount is 42 oz per this chart:
https://www.techchoiceparts.com/refr...rd-light-truck

You might also consider adding a refrigerant booster like this:
https://www.errecom.com/en/product/cool-shot-ultra/

It was discussed in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18802647