Ok, I've read quite a bit, and a few threads that I have found with similar symptoms, the guy never posted on what ended up being his cure, aside from one or two, 1 was injector orings, and the other guy was old oil. Currently I don't have a direct way to diagnose sensors/pressure"soon to change once my wallet gets some rest" anyways, when my engine is up to operating temperature the RPM seems to jump between 650 to 750, and it goes up and down, its not choppy but i can tell the engine isnt running 100% smooth, and it has a slight shake when it goes up and down, I dont feel any power loss, and it goes away when I hit the gas, and Its only an idle problem. I disconected the ICP plug and started the engine again, this time it was almost perfectly smooth, it never jumped above 650ish to 687 rpm and it stayed there. Would it be insane to replace it without further diagnosing it? the sensor it self seems to have the connection dry, and it seem like it isn't too old, but I wonder if its aftermarket or OE.
Here are 2 different vids one with ICP plugged, and one with it unplugged. Sorry for the bad audio, my phone isn't the best


.

 

Have you also checked the thin stamped tinnerman nut on the rear of the IPR?

 

It's a van so its almost unreachable without removing things, It seems to be in place, and I remember tightening to german specs gudentight. Doing the math with the ICP connected rpm varies within 139 rpms from the lowest and highest average.

With it disconnected it varies 35 rpms difference average from highest to lowest, which begs my question, although from other literature it could also be a bad IPR as it can lead to similar symptoms, but thats just from reading other experiences. I might have to order some sort of scanner/tuner that allows me to check those parameters, what are you guys using to check your ipr duty cycles, and pressures? I feel like a total knewb asking this.

 

A Motorcraft ICP would definitely be in order if yours is a aftermarket. Pretty much all sensor should be OEM. The aftermarket sensors are junk and you will be chasing your tail trying to figure out problems. Look inside the ICP pigtail plug and see if there is oil in there. That is a good indicator to change the ICP. I had oil in my plug and changed it out, truck runs much better now

 

the plug seemed dry when pulled out, i know the previous owner had it replaced, i found a receipt call me crazy but isnt charging 202 dollars for an icp a little too much?
I will take a closer look at it tomorrow and see if its even an oe part.

 

yes the part itself is around $150 and the mechanic probably charged a half hour labor even though it only takes 5 minutes to install. What I usually do is find out what the Motorcraft part number is and then Google that part number. You'd be surprised how cheap you can find things that are hidden on the internet. Riffraff usually has the best prices for our truck. Being that you have nothing to monitor your PIDS I would definitely recommend that you get a Bluetooth OBD2 dongle and The Torque Pro app. I just got one off of Amazon for like $25 oh, I think it was called a bafx and it works great. Worst case scenario if you couldn't get it to hook up to your truck you could return it if you have Amazon Prime. This way you'll basically be able to see everything that your PCM is reading. Not to mention you can also pull codes and clear codes. Also I noticed that your invoice was dated from 2017, I replaced my ICP sensor around that same time and mine just went bad. Only three years old. Truck was still running okay but the new sensor made it a lot better. Just a little food for thought

 

I tried looking on my old ICP sensor to see if there was any kind of part number or something to indicate that it was a Motorcraft but unfortunately the only thing that it says is that it's made in Mexico on the black part not the nut. Not the best way to tell if it's oem but it's a start

 

If it’s OEM it will have some navistar numbers on it.

 

I dont have your answers to what is wrong with your vehicle but running PIDs can certainly help.

j can however help with Access to PIDs with a dedicated full featured tool on the cheap.

Forscan setup as follows:lattitude 2110 refurbished
rubberized case
usb
wifi
win 7

on ebay $50

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-LATITU...IAAOSwsxFd5~vJ



forscan
products > Version 2.3 free

https://forscan.org/home.html

OBD link SX $30

 

yup plan on that soon, for now I tried torque app.
sadly I couldn't get a reading for the ficm for some reason, icp I got the following.


Start up cold

Warm

Disregard coolant temp, are these voltages normal for cold and warm? that I have no clue. Got to see what the deal is with the coolant, and ficm, but as stated she runs rough after warming, at this point I wouldn't mind it being injectors, they are likely OE injectors, with almost 300k miles. Unless anybody has any suggestions, would it better to get a reman set, or can i just reseal and reshim them, or is that just a temporary thing?

 

Thats a very good thing. There is no FICM on the 7.3 That's a 6.0 thing

 

Hahahaha, that is a little embarrassing, good to know though.

 

Update; got a laptop/cable and ran a buzz test. All injectors buzzed loud and clear, but it failed the test due to one injector pulling a p1275 cyl #5 that alone has made me love forscan already first try. Anyways is it safe to assume #5 injector is just tired and worn ? I still have the original injectors with about 300k miles on them which is why am assuming it is the most likely, when I bought this vehicle it had massive oil leaks and one valve cover harness was also toasted. I replaced it with motorcraft stuff and it ran much better, I also resealed everything in the upper engine, and the whole nine yards, then I started noticing a slight idle up and down barely noticeable at first then almost 100 miles later it got worse, after warming up the truck would idle erratic and I started hearing the Tugly loose injector knock,but it could have have had it before, and i just didn't notice, I'm getting better at what a healthy 7.3 should sound like every time i drive it, i get more in tune with it if it makes sense. I havent gotten around to retorque them, but I will do when I get back in there, knock can be heard in my first video in first post. I dont drive this vehicle for the time being, so my question to you guys is assuming none of the wiring is chafed would it be a safe bet to assume its a bad injector based on that? Or should I keep digging. I don't know if I want to swap injectors around as I would have to replace the seals because I wouldnt trust to re use those 300k mile seals in a new hole. I guess am being a little greedy as I want to enjoy this beast atleast a bit before it tears a hole in my wallet again, already spent over 1.3 just doing preventative maintenance and resealing things new turbo etc... which is why I say that. Thanks for reading my ramble.

 

I forgot here is a quick shot, My icp and hpop seem to be within spec so I guess this is my new problem now that icp is ruled out.